If you want to see what I'm referring to, click on one of these posts...
Ingredient: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
My method for testing
Part 1: Black Amber Lavender and Clementine Cupcake fragrance oils
Part 2: Yuzu fragrance oil and peppermint essential oil
Out of all the solubilizers I've used - polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, caprylyl/capyl glucoside, Caprol Micro Express, Cromollient SCE (INCI: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate) - I think PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is my favourite. Why? It's easy to use. It solubilized the four representative fragrance and essential oils I used very easily. It created clear solutions. It's easy to find at our suppliers and it's relatively inexpensive. And there are tons of recipes from our suppliers, the manufacturers, and homecrafters out there using this ingredient.
COMPARING THE COST OF INGREDIENTS
Your supplier's prices will vary. This is what I paid for each of my ingredients.
- PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - Voyageur Soap & Candle - $5.95 for 8 ounces/227 grams.
- Polysorbate 20 - Voyageur Soap & Candle - $8.45 for 250 ml/8.4 ounces
- Polysorbate 80 - Voyageur Soap & Candle - $8.45 for 250 ml/8.4 ounces
- Caprylyl/capryl glucoside - Voyageur Soap & Candle - $4.90 for 250 ml/8.4 ounces
- Caprol Micro Express - Lotioncrafter - $8.65 for 8 ounces
- Cromollient SCE - Lotioncrafter - $9.45 for 8 ounces
They all get the job done, but I've found caprylyl/capryl glucoside the most difficult, as demonstrated by its inability to completely solubilize my favourite fragrance, Clementine Cupcake. It doesn't seem to like working with vanilla. The rest do a good job. I find I do have a shake up with polysorbate 20 from time to time with specific fragrances, and I have found polysorbate 80 isn't great with fragrance oils at times. Keep that one for using with carrier oils!
I've found the polysorbates and caprylyl/capryl glucoside don't tend to be clear all the time, whereas with the others I've had no problems with clarity of product.
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside is the only one of the ones I've used that has this designation.
SOME OF MY THOUGHTS...
The polysorbates are easy to find and inexpensive - the most inexpensive of all solubilizers I've used - but they are bit inconsistent, especially with fragrance oils with vanilla. We all know how I feel about caprylyl/capryl glucoside - I found it very sticky and it didn't solubilize my favourite fragrance, Clementine cupcake, at all!
I liked Cromollient SCE because it offered some emolliency, but it isn't easy for me to get - have to order by mail - and costs quite a bit. I really like Caprol Micro Express because it offers some nice emolliency, but again, I have to order by mail, which is a pain (no matter how much I love Lotioncrafter, but I'm an impatient woman!).
What do you think? What's your favourite? Why is it your favourite?