Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Gels: Making an eye liner sealant. Part one - figuring out the ingredient list

I've never used one of these before, but my friends and kids in the groups are very interested in this eye liner sealant product. It can be used to seal mineral make-up or eye liner. The point is to keep these products on your eyes throughout the day. When I want to duplicate a product like this, I'll take a look at a few different versions of it and see what is similar in each product.

This one (Bare Minerals?) has water, copolymer (we'll discuss that in a minute...), propylene glycol, and preservatives.

Medusa's make-up eye liner sealant contains: water, VP/VA Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

One from Sephora ($18 for 0.2 ounces or about 6 ml)
Aqua (Water), Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Polyester-5, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben. Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben.

One called TransFix contains Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Quaternium-15, Citric Acid (Not so good reviews of this one...)

What I can take from these ingredient lists is that these ingredients contain water, a co-polymer (the VP/VA or polyvinylpyrrolidone or PVP), a humectant/plasticizer (propylene glycol), and preservatives. This is an easy product to replicate because we only have a few variables - the water, the plasticizer, and the sticky stuff - but I want it in a gel format so it doesn't get all over my purse. Secondly, it'll be easier to turn this into a gel liner when I eventually perfect the recipe.

The propylene glycol isn't here so much as a humectant, but as a plasticizer. We want the product to be slightly plastic, in that we can move our eye lid and it won't crack. If we don't have that, then we get a sticky, thick substance that can't handle a little movement. You can use another poly-alcohol based humectant if you want, including hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, or sorbitol. You can't use honey, sodium lactate, or sodium PCA. For more information on humectants, click here

And I can also take away that they are incredibly expensive for what they are! Running between $5.00 to $20 (and, I'm sure, more!) for less than a tablespoon, the ingredients aren't hard to get or expensive, but it can take some time to get the skin feel you want.

So what ingredients should I have?
  • Water. I'll use distilled water for this, as I should for every product I make, but it's even more important when I'm making a gel as I don't want to include salts or metals I could find in tap water. 
  • A polymer of some kind. I want to use something like PVP or AMP, something I might use in a hair gel for holding. PVP (INCI: PVP) is a film former and thickener soluble in alcohols and water. Use at 1% to 10% in water based products. AMP (INCI: AMP acrylates copolymer) is a similar ingredient, but there are many different versions of it, all of which will include the acrylates copolymer. I'm using PVP because it's easier for me to find. 
  • Propylene glycol. As I mentioned above, propylene glycol is included here as a plasticizer, as something that will keep something that could be stiffer more supple. (Yeah, you can giggle now if you want.) You can substitute another polyol based humectant here, but I'm using propylene glycol. 
  • Preservative. Of course we need that. We want to find something that can be used near our eyes. Something like Phenonip or Liquid Germall Plus works well here. Check the preservatives section of the blog to see data sheets on each preservative to see if your favourite will work here. 
So how do we figure out how much of each we should include? That's a matter for a post in a few days...In the mean time, let's take a look at the idea of how to duplicate products since it's a question that's asked a lot 'round here.

Related posts that will give you an idea of how I work to figure out a product's ingredients and skin feel:
Duplicating products: Lush's After Life moisturizer (part 1)
Duplicating products: Lush's After Life moisturizer (part 2)


Anonymous said...

PG as plasticizer? that is new for me, isn't science cool ? :)

THanks for yet another excellent post!

Anonymous said...

I just love you! I knew I'll find the info I needed about PG... you are such a star...


Asha said...

I am new to your blog. It is really knowledgeable and easy to understand for a newbie like me.
I am from India and trying to find the VP/VA copolymer supplier here. I am interested in making hair styling product. So could you please tell me the chemical name for this. Also is there any difference between PVP/VA and VP/VA copolymer?

ChristinaMarie said...

You got me hooked reading this blog, but I was so hoping that in the end you would let us know where to buy these ingrediants, as well as a receipe.
Let me know anyone if you have a good receipe and where to buy the ingredients.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Asha! I'm afraid I don't know of suppliers in India.

Hi ChristinaMarie. Did you click on the links in the blog post to find out where I get PVP or AMP?

Simone said...

Hi Susan,
I hope you are feeling better and your back is appreciating the rest. I know from experience that back pain is one of the, if not the most debilitating pains you can suffer from.
I have looked for Part 2 of the recipe for the eye sealant on your blog but without success. Can you tell me if it exists? I was so excited at finding a supplier of PVP closer to Australia I forgot to check the recipe, now I have the ingredients but don't know the quantities.
Thank you for a fantastic blog.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Simone! Yes, I'm feeling much much better, and ready to write! I'm experiencing all over muscle spasms and pain, but mostly in my back, hip, and left leg. But the epidurals worked, and I'm feeling much less pain! Woo!

I'm using this question as a Weekday Wonderings for Monday. The short answer is that I flaked out and didn't post the recipes. The longer answer is that I'm sorry about that and have put them in Monday's post! Sorry to keep you waiting a few days longer, but I did write a very long answer, so I hope that makes up for it!

Let me know what you think of them!