Monday, September 30, 2013

Experiments in the workshop: Creating a body wash for really oily skin - part one

If you've read much of the blog, you'll know that I have really oily skin and you'll also know that I work with a lot of teenagers in my youth programs, so it only makes sense for me to make a body wash that might help oily skin be less oily. (You'll also note I have a small obsession with body wash!) This product would be suitable for oily hair as well, so you could call this a two-for-one product that works as a shampoo and body wash. If you had fine and oily hair, you might be able to use the conditioner in the product - about 2.5% - as a 3-in-1 product! Woo!

Take a look at the ingredients in various shampoos in the hair care part of the blog and see how they compare to this body wash. You'll see they are quite similar in nature. 

Whenever you think about making a product, think about the goal of the product. For a body wash, the first goal is to clean your skin. For this product I want to make sure that I also include the goal of reducing oil production after cleansing and moisturizing without using oils. There are many different ways to achieve each of these goals, but these are the ingredients I have in my workshop. I'll try to include ideas on what else you could use to achieve the goal in question.

Whenever I create a surfactant based product, I start with the surfactants suitable for that skin or hair type. I'm starting with disodium laureth sulfosuccinate or DLS mild and C14-16 olefin sulfonate as my main surfactants, and I add cocamidopropyl betaine as my secondary surfactant to increase the mildness and thicken of the product. (You can use any combination you like. This is what I like.)

Which surfactants can you substitute for these if you don't have them? Check out the surfactant download chart to see what you have and if it's good for your skin or hair type. And check out this post on modifying the surfactants in our products. 

How can I reduce oil production? There are a few ingredients I might use for this product. I could use MSM at lower than 5% in this product or niacinamide at up to 6%. I have chosen to use 2.5% niacinamide in the cool down phase along with 2.5% sebum control enzyme.

I received this ingredient from the Formulator Sample Shop, and here's the link to their product. INCI: Water & Spiraea Ulmaria Extract. It's suggested to use it at 1% to 5% in your product. Here's a link to the meadowsweet flower information at Sigma Aldrich. It's noted as an astringent, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidant, amongst other things. 

How can I moisturize without using oils? I can use humectants to draw moisture to the skin after bathing. I can use hydrolyzed proteins to create a film on the skin. I can add water soluble conditioning agents.

For my humectants, I'd normally turn to sodium lactate as a great humectant for oily or acne prone skin, but it rinses off too easily, so I'm using glycerin and panthenol for this product, with the latter being good for inflammation and redness, too.

You can use other humectants, but I don't recommend sodium lactate or sodium PCA as they will end up rinsing off, which defeats the purpose! 

For conditioning, I'm turning to my cationic or positively charged polymers to offer that lovely after feel. I'm using 1.5% polyquat 7 and 1% honeyquat because I didn't have enough of either to make up 2.5% to 3%. Honeyquat also acts as a humectant, so it's a double duty ingredient! Woo! We like those!

You can use any cationic polymers you might have in your workshop if you don't have the ones I suggest.  

For film forming, I'm including a hydrolyzed protein called MultiGrain Complex from the Formulator Sample Shop at 2% in my heated water phase (INCI: Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein & Hydrolyzed Rice Protein & Hydrolyzed Amaranth Protein). I'm using this one as it's listed as gluten free, and one of my testers has celiac disease and I want to make sure everything is safe for her. (You can use any hydrolyzed protein you have in its place.)

I'm using a few different liquids in place of quite a bit of the water because I want the film forming, soothing, and anti-inflammatory qualities of aloe vera; the astringent, anti-inflammatory, and anti-oxidizing qualities of witch hazel; and peppermint hydrosol because it can help with itching, redness, and astringency. I'll use each of these at 10% as that seems like amount to get the benefits I seek. I'm using some powdered willow bark extract at 0.5% in the cool down phase because I like the exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties it offers. (I wanted to use the liquid, but I ran out!)

Feel free to use water for any or all of these extracts in this product. Check out this post on modifying extracts in a facial cleanser

If you're interested in making some modifications in this body wash, check out the posts to which I've linked as well as this one with a few sample modifications of a recipe I've modified a few times!

As a note, although I receive these ingredients for free from the Formulator Sample Shop, they understand that I will give my honest opinion on it on the blog. This is one of the reason I've given these products to my testers without ingredient lists. I want them to be able to offer their uncensored opinion I can use on the blog. (Okay, not completely uncensored 'cause one of them swears like a plumber who's just dropped a wrench on her foot!)

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at the recipe we've created!


Homebody at Heart said...

Hi there. You sound like a chemist. I am a soaper and I saw where someone made soap that included enzymes (kombucha waste, I am thinking). Do you think if I made cold process soap with the enzymes from kombucha making that they would be destroyed by the lye and saponification process? Thanks for your help. I want to read through your stuff, it looks good. I have long hair (sadly, color treated due to the abundance of gray hair). I always seem to have coconut oil in abundance from my soap making. Couldn't I just put straight coconut oil on my hair and wrap it up in a towel as a "hot oil" type of treatment? Never thought about that before.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sally. I don't make soap, so I don't know. And yes, using coconut oil straight on your hair as a treatment. I have a few posts on this topic on the blog. Do a search and see all the stuff I have about coconut oil. You'll be pleased to see how multifunctional it is!