Penny Lane Organics very kindly sent me a whole whack of Natragem EW, an all-in-one, non-ionic Ecocert emulsifier from Croda. The INCI is Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol. The suggested usage rate is 3.0% to 7.5%, and the manufacturer notes tha we can use it exactly as we would use Polawax.
The polyglyceryl-6 palmitate/succinate is the high HLB emulsifier that also thickens, while the glyceryl stearate is the low HLB emulsifier, so together they create an all-in-one emulsifier. The cetearyl alcohol thickens the product.
Interestingly, we can put this emulsifier into the heated water or the heated oil phase. The manufacturer notes adding to the oil phase will create higher viscosity product than adding it to the water phase.
If you're formulating using only silicones in your product, the manufacturer recommends you increase the concentration to 7.5% to offer higher viscosity and stability than lower levels.
This product claims to work well with electrolytes and maintains its stability even when salt is added 10%. As we saw the other day, we don't want to add tons of electrolytes to our lotions, but this one managed to remain stable. Interesting...although I really don't suggest adding a ton of salt to a product! What purpose would it serve? (Before you say salt scrub, the salt would dissolve in water!)
As an aside, really think about using alcohol as a preservative or in high levels in your lotions. If you are using alcohol in levels worthy of preservation - I think it's 20% or higher - a lotion with this emulsifier or others might not remain stable.
Summary of Natragem EW:
INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Non-ionic, all-in-one emulsifier composed of a low HLB and high HLB emulsifier with a thickener.
Usage from 3% to 7.5%.
For use in the heated oil or heated water phase.
Appearance: White - yellow flakes
Ecocert, 100% naturally derived.
Non-whitening on the skin.
Join me tomorrow as I create a product using this emulsifier!
*Please note, I have not been paid for my opinion. Bo Penny contacted me and asked if I wanted to try out this emulsifier and I said, "Yes, please!" so she sent it to me. She has not given me anything other than her time and this product. As usual, my opinions are my own, and if I like it, it's because I like it, not because I've been paid to say something nice.