Tuesday - Made the lotion
NATRAGEM BODY LOTION WITH EVENING PRIMROSE AND KUKUI NUT OIL
HEATED WATER PHASE
33% distilled water
10% aloe vera
20% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
5% water soluble calendula extract
2% sodium lactate
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% Natragem EW *
3% cetyl alcohol
3% cocoa butter
8% evening primrose oil
5% kukui nut oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil
Follow the basic lotion making instructions for this product.
*You might remember that we can use this emulsifier in the heated oil or heated water phase. I chose to use it in the heated oil phase because I wanted a thicker feeling lotion.
I allowed both the water and oil jugs to come to 70˚C, then I reduced the temperature on my double boiler and heated and held them. The oil phase was at 80˚C when I got ready to remove it 20 minutes later.
After heating and holding, the heated water phase weighed 864 grams, so I added 26 grams of water I had boiled previously and let cool slightly. The water was at 76˚C while the heated water phase was at 82˚C. It was 81˚C when I added the oil phase to it.
It didn't emulsify immediately. If you've ever used Ritamulse SCG, it did that thing where the two came together with some bits of oil spots floating in it, but within a minute of mixing with my hand mixer, it was looking more emulsified. After 3 minutes, it looked like lotion! I mixed for 7 minutes, then let it sit. This picture is of the product after the post-heat and hold mixing.
Two hours after adding my cool down phase, the lotion remained emulsified. It was definitely thicker than it was at 12:25 when I stopped mixing and slightly thicker than it was at 1:43 when I added the cool down phase.
Wednesday - Looked at it in the workshop
It's definitely thicker than it was yesterday, but not as thick as the version I made with Ritamulse SCG. (I think that's because it has 3% less emulsifier in this version.) The marketing material notes that it can take a few days to thicken, and Bo noticed that it might take longer if it's humid or warm. I think I'm going to wait until Friday to package it because right now it looks like I could use a treatment pump for it and I would hate to waste those containers if it doesn't work out!
It goes on really nicely on my skin with lots of play time or time to rub it in, but there's a slightly waxy feeling I get just after applying it. I attribute this to the cetearyl alcohol because I've noticed it in the Ritamulse SCG version, but not the Polawax version, an ingredient that (most likely) doesn't contain cetearly alcohol.
Thursday - Looked at it again in the workshop...
Join me tomorrow to take another look at this recipe and how it is working!