Monday, August 12, 2013

Modifying the low surfactant foaming facial cleanser: A few sample recipes with substitutions

Welcome back! I hope you had a lovely weekend! Let's resume where we left on Friday with modifying the low surfactant foaming facial cleanser with oat surfactant with different ingredients.

Part 1: Introduction and explanation of the product
Part 2: Substituting surfactants
Part 3: Substituting extracts and hydrosols

What's the point of this product? This is a vital part of learning how to substitute ingredients because we need to figure out what this product is, what it does, how it feels on our skin, and what properties do we want in this.

It's a low surfactant foaming facial cleanser with extracts and hydrosols suitable for normal to oily skin that has a tendancy to go red. It has 12.5% surfactants because we want something low in surfactants for ease of rinsing and we haven't thickened it because we want it to go in a foamer bottle. It contains ingredients that have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It doesn't include powdered extracts because they could colour the product and clog the foamer bottle. The cleanser has a moisturized and conditioned feeling while we use it, and after rinsing our skin shouldn't feel tight and dry. I've included honey matte to give our skin a slightly powdery sensation.

Can we get these qualities with other ingredients? Heck, yeah! That's been the point of the last few days! (Except for the honey matte because I've never found a water soluble ingredient that results in the same powdery feeling. We can work with the sebum control, though. If you have some suggestions, let me know!)

Let's take a look at a few different variations on this recipe with the changes listed in green...

LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER WITH FOAMING OAT SURFACTANT - VARIATION #1 - different surfactants, no foaming oat surfactant
HEATED PHASE
10% ACI
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% apple extract (liquid)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
49% water

COOL DOWN
1% ginger root extract
5% honey matte
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract

This product might result in something slightly more foamy and bubbly with a very conditioned and moisturizing but not greasy feeling skin feel. It might be a bit less mild than the version with the foaming silk or oat proteins. You could increase the mildness by adding something like 2% hydrolyzed protein if you want the film forming properties of the protein in this product. Remove 2% water if you add 2% protein.

LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER WITH FOAMING OAT SURFACTANT - different extracts, more powder
HEATED PHASE
5% foaming oat surfactant
5% decyl glucoside
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
20% rosemary hydrosol
10% witch hazel
48.5% water

COOL DOWN
1% ginger root extract
5% honey matte
0.5% powdered chamomile hydrosol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract

This product would be good for oily prone-to-redness skin as we've kept the chamomile in a powdered form and used rosemary hydrosol, which will offer astringency and some sebum control. This product would have a slightly yellow-y, possibly cloudy colour thanks to the powdered extract.

Here's an example of a foaming facial cleanser using powdered grapeseed and chamomile extracts, and liquid water soluble green tea extract. This colour comes from 0.5% each of those powdered extracts, so you can see how a tiny amount can result in a dramatic colour change!


LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER WITH FOAMING OAT SURFACTANT - no ginger root extract, added hydrolyzed protein 
HEATED PHASE
5% foaming oat surfactant
5% decyl glucoside
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% apple extract (liquid)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed protein
48% water

COOL DOWN
5% honey matte
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract

The ginger root is an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory that might help with helping our skin retain protein. I figured the hydrolyzed protein will help with film forming and might help with this quality. Also consider something like horsetail extract or one of our cosmeceutical ingredients, like sea or bull kelp bioferment.

LOW SURFACTANT FACIAL CLEANSER WITH FOAMING OAT SURFACTANT - lots and lots of changes! 
HEATED PHASE
5% foaming silk surfactant or ACI 
5% polyglucose/lactylate blend
2.5% disodium cocoamphodiacetate
10% aloe vera liquid
25% rose hydrosol
57% water
3% glycerin

COOL DOWN
3% water soluble oil (like PEG-7 olivate, water soluble shea butter)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

This would be a product suitable for dry skin as I've removed all the astringent ingredients and replaced just about everything with something more moisturizing. It is still a low surfactant facial cleanser that can be used in a foamer with a conditioned skin feel, but it will be more moisturizing than other versions thanks to the glycerin and a water soluble oil I added to make it more moisturizing and more mild. I don't feel like I have to load it up with tons of moisturizing ingredients because it's not the sole moisturizer you'll use, so I would say that glycerin and rose hydrosol are still optional, but pretty awesome. (I don't use anything after cleansing - maybe a little moisturizing toner - because my skin is so oily!)

It's a pretty rare event that you'd be able to make something exactly the way I make it because everyone's workshop and shopping list is different. There's no point in buying an ingredient that you might use at 3% in one product - it's better to figure out what you have in your workshop that you can use instead. Sometimes it's worth buying that ingredient - I really can't believe how much I'm loving the honey matte - and other times you'll realize that you can use something else, but it's always worth a try to see what you like. Eventually, you'll have a regular inventory of things you use and a few things you buy special for certain products, but you have to keep trying and working out what you like. This is one of the reasons I say you have to get into your workshop and make things. No one can tell you what you like and don't like!

If you want to learn more about your ingredients, I've written a lot of posts on this topic! Check out the labels for the topic that interests you on the right hand side of the blog. If you want to learn more about oils, please check out the Newbie Tuesday series on getting to know our oils and butters (this is the last post, but it has all of them listed). Join me tomorrow as we take a look at another product we could use as a substitution example.

2 comments:

Chris said...

Would 5 % SCI, 5 % DLS mild and 2,5 % coco betaine, be a good gentle surfactant mix for facial use?

Anonymous said...

Could I modify these recipes to make a non-foamer bottle cleanser by raising the percentage of the surfactants to something like 25% and adding liquid Crothix until thick? Is that, essentially, the only difference between these and your regular cleanser recipe?

Bridget