Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Ritamulse SCG: Making a body lotion for my mom!

Wow, this is post 2000! To celebrate, look for a PDF of my favourite recipes to be posted in the free downloadable PDFs section of the blog later this week! 

My mom absolutely loves this lotion. She uses it every night, and she makes a point of leaving the empty jar where I can see it when she runs out. I love this lotion as a hand and body lotion. During the summer months, I up the humectants just slightly from 3% glycerin to 4%. (It doesn't feel sticky at all!)

I like using Ritamulse SCG as the emulsifier because it offers a drier feeling to the product, but it isn't as dry as using Incroquat BTMS-50 would be. I like things slightly drier, but not powdery feeling, and I get that feeling with BTMS-50. Not with SCG.

My mom likes the version I make with evening primrose oil, but I didn't have any in the house, so I thought I'd go with kukui nut oil instead. (I have always loved this oil, but it is a bit on the pricey side, so I don't tend to use it much.) To make up for the loss of that lovely gamma-linolenic acid I would find in evening primrose, I used wheat germ oil, which contains a lot of linoleic acid. It also contains a ton of Vitamin E, which I really want in a skin softening lotion for my mom. I threw in 1% IPM as well because I figured it would help reduce the possible greasiness the wheat germ oil might contribute. (So I  used 7% kukui nut oil, 5% wheat germ oil, and 1% IPM for the 13% oils.)

If you don't have these oils, you can substitute it with any of the drier feeling oils like hazelnut, macadamia nut, evening primrose, borage, pomegranate, or a few of the other exotic type oils. I don't suggest using grapeseed oil as it has a three month life span, and this lotion should be good for at least six months, but preferably a year. Or use any oils you like for the skin feel you want. Just don't go over 25% oils because you will be in for an epic lotion fail!

I've used cocoa butter and allantoin because they both offer some occlusive properties to the product. If you don't have allantoin, consider using up to 2% dimethicone in the cool down phase if you want these qualities.

For the summer months, I up the humectants just slightly from 3% glycerin to 4% glycerin. I really encourage you to try this if you're in a more humid climate as it really makes a lovely difference but doesn't feel sticky. If you aren't a fan of glycerin, try sodium lactate at up to 2.5% and another humectant - just not honeyquat as Ritamulse SCG doesn't like cationic ingredients.

Finally, I used aloe vera and chamomile hydrosol as part of my water amount as I want things that might reduce inflammation as I get quite red in the summer! (Not sunburned, just from being too warm all the time! I'm not a summer girl!)

This lotion isn't very thick, but it spreads very well and feels quite light. I can feel it as a light layer on my skin the next day, which I think it thanks to the occlusive ingredients and the humectants. I can't stress enough how important the humectants are in this recipe!

29% water
31% hydrosols, aloe vera, or witch hazel
2% hydrolyzed oat (or other type) protein
3% glycerin
5% water soluble calendula extract
0.5% allantoin

8% Ritamulse SCG
3% cetyl alcohol
3% butter of choice
13% oils of choice

0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E

Follow the basic lotion making instructions to make this product. But make sure that you mix the product until it reaches the cool down phase and add that phase when the product is under 45˚C or 113˚F because it could curdle the lotion if you add the preservative at a higher temperature. Mix until the product reaches 30˚C or 86˚F. (Seriously, do not add the cool down stuff above 45˚C. Epic lotion fails can ensue!)

If you don't have Ritamulse SCG or want to use another emulsifier, you would want to use Polawax at 25% of the oil phase (so 19/4 or 4.75% or 5%), e-wax at +1% from the Polawax amount (6%), or Incroquat BTMS-50 at something like 5% or so. (There isn't a rule of thumb with Incroquat BTMS-50.) Remember to add the difference in emulsifier percentages to the water amount! (Why add anything to the water amount? Read this post!)

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating as I share more of my experiences in the workshop with my anhydrous eye shadow primer!

Related posts:
Ritamulse SCG: Making a basic lotion
Ritamulse SCG: Making an all natural lotion
Ritamulse SCG: Thicker lotions
Ritamulse SCG: Hand lotions
Ritamulse SCG: Making an eye cream


Mychelle said...

Happy 2000th post! How exciting! You Rick Susan, and I'll be here for post 10,000. :)

Mychelle said...


Lavarie - der Seifenblog said...

Gratulations for your 2oooth post! You do a marvellous job with this blog and I dearly hope for another 2000 posts to come :-)

Btw because of your interesting reports about ritamulse I ordered some abroad (it's not available here, unless you need 20kg or more) and use it ever since in almost any cream apart from products with Urea. I somehow can't get a stable lotion with Urea and Ritamulse, but apart from that, it is divinely easy to process.

p said...

2000 awesome posts - what a body of work! Congrats!

Kim said...

Hi Susan. Congratulations. Thank you so much for all the information you've so willingly shared. You're an absolute inspiration. Kind regards, Kim (first post although I've 'lurked' for a while!!!)

Sally said...


Dee said...

Happy 2000 Post! You have done a wonderful job and excellent service to the bath and body care followers.
We love you and appreciate all your hard work. :-)

Milla said...

Thank you so much for your posts on Ritamulse SCG. I use the Ecomulse version and it's a very interesting emulsifier. I had a bit of a learning curve, but I love the feel of it since I don't like greasy lotions. It has that light feel to it. I admit that my lotion curdled the first time because I added my preservative too early/too warm for the emulsifier, but when I started adding it at 95F it incorporated perfectly. Thanks for the tips!

regfmcd said...

This lotion is fantastic.

Thank you!


Anonymous said...

This has to be my all time favourite lotion/body cream so far. I used cocoa butter and argan oil and I left it unscented because I used lavender and chamomile hydrosols so it has a slight floral fragrance. I didn't have the calendula extract so I added in aloe vera.
I made a batch back in July when you first posted this recipe Susan and it has held up very nicely since. I absolutely love this recipe and the after feel.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Thanks for your feedback! Keep it coming!

Marg said...

Hi Susan

Can you explain why you would increase the humectant (glycerin) in a summer lotion especially in humid climates? I thought you would increase in the dry, winter months, so now I'm confused!



Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Marg! I've answered your question in Saturday, July 4th's Weekend Wondering. The short answer - it's humid where I live and my skin is losing water at an alarming rate with the heat, so adding a humectant means I hydrate my skin better.