Wow, this is post 2000! To celebrate, look for a PDF of my favourite recipes to be posted in the free downloadable PDFs section of the blog later this week!
I like using Ritamulse SCG as the emulsifier because it offers a drier feeling to the product, but it isn't as dry as using Incroquat BTMS-50 would be. I like things slightly drier, but not powdery feeling, and I get that feeling with BTMS-50. Not with SCG.
My mom likes the version I make with evening primrose oil, but I didn't have any in the house, so I thought I'd go with kukui nut oil instead. (I have always loved this oil, but it is a bit on the pricey side, so I don't tend to use it much.) To make up for the loss of that lovely gamma-linolenic acid I would find in evening primrose, I used wheat germ oil, which contains a lot of linoleic acid. It also contains a ton of Vitamin E, which I really want in a skin softening lotion for my mom. I threw in 1% IPM as well because I figured it would help reduce the possible greasiness the wheat germ oil might contribute. (So I used 7% kukui nut oil, 5% wheat germ oil, and 1% IPM for the 13% oils.)
hazelnut, macadamia nut, evening primrose, borage, pomegranate, or a few of the other exotic type oils. I don't suggest using grapeseed oil as it has a three month life span, and this lotion should be good for at least six months, but preferably a year. Or use any oils you like for the skin feel you want. Just don't go over 25% oils because you will be in for an epic lotion fail!
I've used cocoa butter and allantoin because they both offer some occlusive properties to the product. If you don't have allantoin, consider using up to 2% dimethicone in the cool down phase if you want these qualities.
glycerin, try sodium lactate at up to 2.5% and another humectant - just not honeyquat as Ritamulse SCG doesn't like cationic ingredients.
Finally, I used aloe vera and chamomile hydrosol as part of my water amount as I want things that might reduce inflammation as I get quite red in the summer! (Not sunburned, just from being too warm all the time! I'm not a summer girl!)
This lotion isn't very thick, but it spreads very well and feels quite light. I can feel it as a light layer on my skin the next day, which I think it thanks to the occlusive ingredients and the humectants. I can't stress enough how important the humectants are in this recipe!
RITAMULSE SCG BODY LOTION RECIPE
31% hydrosols, aloe vera, or witch hazel
2% hydrolyzed oat (or other type) protein
5% water soluble calendula extract
8% Ritamulse SCG
3% cetyl alcohol
3% butter of choice
13% oils of choice
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E
basic lotion making instructions to make this product. But make sure that you mix the product until it reaches the cool down phase and add that phase when the product is under 45˚C or 113˚F because it could curdle the lotion if you add the preservative at a higher temperature. Mix until the product reaches 30˚C or 86˚F. (Seriously, do not add the cool down stuff above 45˚C. Epic lotion fails can ensue!)
If you don't have Ritamulse SCG or want to use another emulsifier, you would want to use Polawax at 25% of the oil phase (so 19/4 or 4.75% or 5%), e-wax at +1% from the Polawax amount (6%), or Incroquat BTMS-50 at something like 5% or so. (There isn't a rule of thumb with Incroquat BTMS-50.) Remember to add the difference in emulsifier percentages to the water amount! (Why add anything to the water amount? Read this post!)
Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating as I share more of my experiences in the workshop with my anhydrous eye shadow primer!
Ritamulse SCG: Making a basic lotion
Ritamulse SCG: Making an all natural lotion
Ritamulse SCG: Thicker lotions
Ritamulse SCG: Hand lotions
Ritamulse SCG: Making an eye cream