Saturday, July 6, 2013

It's Saturday!

I'm studying for another midterm, and today's all about the family - we're attending an art class after a full English breakfast - so I haven't time to write a full blog post, just time for a question. 

So, what are you working on right now? What are you researching or making in the workshop? What barriers are you facing in making your product? What information do you need or supplies or help? 
Share your thoughts! Let's do a little troubleshooting! 

In the meantime, here's the new logo for my blog as drawn by Kimberly Goryk, a very talented youth from our groups! (I'm hoping to find time to redesign the blog in the next few weeks. I'm eager to hear suggestions!) It's everything I love - monkeys, cupcakes, lime green, shorts!


LeKenda said...

OH my Susan, you are one studious student, lol.

So here is what I am working on:

I purchased the Kera Straightening and Curl from FSS and was hoping to formulate my own temporary keratin treatment. I have been thinking about how to approach this as I want it to work (else I am just wasting product and time) but I want it to be light enough for even fine textures. In that regard, I am considering a foaming treatment to make the product similar to a mousse so it kindof "melts" into the hair.
Being surfactant illiterate, I have searched for a basic mousse recipe that I could tweak but alas no such luck.

I am thinking maybe cocobetaine at 10%. Kera S & C at maybe 5% (pricey stuff), a foaming oat, pathenol, sodium lactate and I really don't know what else. Is there a better surfactant for a possible thicker foam- will adjust the percentage be enough?

Topher said...

I've ordered ingredients to make a liquid deodorant, but unfortunately I could not find lemon ester or potassium alum anywhere. I hope Neroli hydrosol, witch hazel, aloe, and sweet orange EO is enough to deodorize and keep bacteria from growing.

In addition to that I am also planning on making a body butter with mango, cocoa and rice brain oil to use after manual exfoliation.

And I've also ordered salicylic acid powder with which I am going to make a 2 % toner. I'm pretty scared about using alcohol, but I will see how my skin reacts to it. Thank you btw for answering my question about the solubility. You're always a big help! :D

Jen said...

I am continuing my quest to make a thick liquid shampoo that has SCI as the primary surfactant. I am close, but keep getting water separation, so more tweaking is needed. I keep threatening to make a nice KOH liquid soap and the energy fairies need to pay me a visit.

BTW, I LOVE the new logo!

Thanks for all you do, Susan!

Kim said...

Hi Susan. The logo is great - monkeys make me smile!

I'm relatively new to making skin care, and I'm really enjoying it. I'm looking at trying to make a high impact type facial moisturiser - with lots of active ingredients for maximum benefit. Cost not too important as it's just for me and family. I'm finding it difficult to settle on the best combination - it feels good, but I wonder if the likes of Q10, aloe vera, watermelon, soy-rice peptides, alatonin, vitamins, etc actually do work as they say...or whether they're just nice things! Anyhow, it's all exciting and great fun.

Thank you for your amazing blog!


melian1 said...

i'm still working on my facial cleanser/exfoliant. several versions in now, and have discovered that the fruit acid complex (aka multifruit bsc) has caused my skin to darken, so a new version is on my immediate horizon.

@kim: yes, they do! well, i don't use specifically what you listed, but i've got my own skin cream using peptides, exotic oils, eo, etc. and while it isn't an instant thing, it has made a big difference in my skin and my mom's, and my aunt's, and my nieces's... so go for it!

Michelle Kot said...

Hi Susan,this is my first post on your blog, so please forgive me if it is not where its needs to be and if i did it wrongly! Been your regular reader for a long time, cannot really remember if you ever talked about Peptides.
Do you use them at all? Do you know what is the best way to incorporate peptides in formulas? I've heard that peptides "do not like oils" but cannot find any study on this or any advise on which is the best vehicle to deliver the peptides deep to skin. I know that this is the wrong place to post my questions, but i didn't know where to do this, sorry.
Thank you in advance. Irina.

Anonymous said...

I am trying to recreate an alba type shaving cream for my husband. I am using your shaving recipe as a base, and have tweaked a bit adding things here and there. He just wants it thicker to stay on in the shower, but not to be a foamy cream. I am ordering some sodium carbomer from Lotioncrafter to add to see if that will work. I am wondering if you have worked with it before? It is Pre-neutralized so I'm wondering if it can be added to the water phase with allantoin and have everything still work out...I guess I'll find out! I don't know if I should use the carbomer or if adding Shea butter would have the same effect?

Laura Bisel

Carol Holmes said...

I made a solid scrub foot bar. Used crushed walnut shells and crushed almond shells but wanted more srubiness so also added cranberry seeds. WOW! Loved what happened.After pouring into Sunflower shape molds the walnut/almond shells settled at the bottom the butters/oils hardened at the middle,the cranberry seeds floated to the top so when removed from mold I had a three layer scrub. Softer scrub one side scrubbier cranberry seeds other side. Best part it works and feels amazing. Wanted to post pictures here but don't know how. The only problem I had was the 36 degree temp in Osoyoos BC melted the Sunflower shape.

Jodi said...

Hi Susan,
I have just started learning about making soap and noticed in an older blog you say that you do not make soap. Why?

Kim said...

@melian1 - thanks for the encouragement! I guess I'm impatient! Kim

Charbel said...

Does anyone have any idea of what ingredient I could use to lower my cream/lotion's freezing point?

I'm using coconut oil, cetearyl alcohol and sodium bicarbonate as my ingredients, NO water at all.

I was thinking about glycerin, would that work without using water?

Kimmigirl said...

Hi Susan,

I'm a recent follower and lotion-discoverer and love your very generous blog. Your lotion making 101 is an amazing resource that I use daily, thanks for that!

My new project is to formulate a water soluble oil cleanser (my wife is a big fan of the oil cleansing technique). Have you done much work with high oil percentage emulsions?
I'm thinking 70 - 80% oils. I'm using olive emulsion systems (Oliv-Emulse) so haven't gotten into the whole HLB calculation thing.

Do I need a different system to avoid the need for very high levels of emulsifier? I've made a very luxurious lotion with 50% oils but was having to use 11% emulsifier! Obviously expensive!
Any thoughts would be gratefully received. Thanks again for all your help and information.


Alexis said...

I have been working with EMT Polymer from the Herbarie, several FSS extracts and oils. I really like EMT Polymer, especially for face or eye serums/lotions! It truly is very easy to use and has great skin feel. The oz. size is plenty large for several batches because I use only 2% or less in a formula. Even though any batch can be cold processed, I think formulas containing oil do better hot processed, gives them a more uniform look. It's also great for trying out FSS extracts to see which ones I like together or not. I'm not sure if it's sold under another name from other suppliers, but it's INCI is Hydroxyethyl acrylate, Sodium Acryloyldimethyl and Taurate Copolymer.

I also found an old study from 1953 that describes the process for making amine soaps: "Amine Soap Hair Shampoos" by Helen E. Wessell. Very interesting and looks easier than KOH soaps. If you know anyone who has tried to make this type of soap or have any info/studies on it, I'd love to know.

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

I am struggling to make a salicylic acid treatment , with 10% BHA and loaded with antioxidants as well.

I am having a hard time deciding what to include in it, as I want plenty of plant extracts and hydrolized proteins, but I am not sure whether they are stable at a low pH (I want my pH between 3.2 - 3.5) . also, I am worried about the stickiness due to the high solvent % :). But I will manage to solve this ;)

my second problem right now is working with HEC and surfactants. I aim to have a viscous cleansing gel, but I always manage to get a separation in the product - i am not sure what is the cause of it.

my third problem is the perfumer's nose. I have plenty of essential oils and absolutes and I want to make my own perfumes. Sadly, I am so far away from learning how to combine the scents - and for some reason I am unable to find some "making perfume for dummies" , that can teach me how to distinguish scents when I smell a perfume and how to identify what would bring a specific EO / absolute to the mixture and how that will evolve in time. Well, I guess this is just another science , so it is normal not to be able to find all those secrets:)))

Pam said...

Oh what a darling logo! I really like it!

Just returned from a visit to see my sis and she shared a wonderful body butter with me. Not mine :( !

I am attempting to recreate it. a philos ophy product and has the feel of velvet and absorbs so nicely. Did I mention the fragrance that lingers for a bit. Swoon!

Looking at the ingredients scares me as it looks to be all chemicals!
So I'm overwhelmed and looking up chemicals and ingredients and the list is soooo long!

Molly said...

I am currently working on a few hair products with success, and a thin body lotion or 'milk' using BTMS with less success!
I can not get it to stay emulsified. I started at 1% BTMS and am up to 4% with 8% oils. I included some water soluble oils/esters (PEG Olivate and WS Shea). I wasn't counting them as oils because they are water soluble, but I suspect they are responsible for the separation! Back to the drawing board.

Check out Lotioncrafter's Formulary, there is a cleansing oil formulation available there using only a few ingredients called "Olive Cleansing Oil".


Simone said...

Hi Susan,
All the best for your exam and just wanted to say that I love your new logo.

melian1 said...

@ kimmigirl: i also am a fan of the oil cleansing method. but i don't make a lotion to use, i use emulsifiers with the oil blend, and then after i've cleansed my face i rinse with water, which turns it all into lotion which washes away, leaving behind just enough of the oils to suit me. (i had to experiment to find the proper % of emulsifier to leave the desired amount of oils on my skin after rinsing.)

Katherine Chiu said...

Susan, thank you so much for all of your hard work on your blog, and your generosity in sharing your knowledge with your loyal readers.

I'm feeling pretty comfortable with my favorite oils these days, but I'd love to be able to wrap my arms around a small number of surfactants and their interchangeability. I'd love to feel as comfortable with 3 or 4 surfactants in facial or body washes so that when I run out, or I want a certain feel or look, I know which ones I can swap out.

Anionic, cationic, amphoteric--I'm understanding the terms, but the day to day grasp of the interaction between surfactants is still shaky. Why do you need co-surfactants sometimes? Are there pairings that should (almost) always go together? Are there no-no combos? I realize you probably have links and tons of posts addressing surfactant use and that is takes lab time and epic fails to learn this stuff.

I'm thrilled to feel that emulsifiers are demystified, and am eager to feel that way about surfactants.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Charbel! Read this post.

Hi Molly! Are you using BTMS-25 or BTMS-50? Increase the emulsifiers. And yes, esters are considered part of the oil phase! Let us know how it goes!

Hi Pam! Chemicals are things made up of elements, so everything on earth is a chemical! I think what you mean are synthetic things? Long names don't mean something isn't good for you! Do a search on the blog and see if you can find those ingredients. I think you'll find they aren't the bad things you think!

Hi Kimmigirl! Can you give me more information on what you're creating? Email or post here. I'm intrigued!

Hi LaKenda! Yeah, I'm pretty committed. But the courses aren't cheap, so I have to make sure that I learn all I can and don't waste the little money we have! I'm not sure what you mean by a keratin treatment. Can you send along a link or something so we can see what you mean?

Thanks to everyone who has been commenting. Keep them coming. You're giving me loads of ideas, and some of the things you've written I'm pondering!

I think I'm going to make this a regular thing - a weekly troubleshooting of a product - so could those of you who have commented already and want some help write to me - - with your proposed or actual recipe? If you've made the product, I need all the process details! Please be as specific about your ingredients as possible - for instance, BTMS-25 or BTMS-50, not just BTMS because that could be a few different things! - and your process. We will not be writing your recipes, but we can help you tweak them.

I figure this is the experienced version of Newbie Tuesday. Formulating Friday?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I don't know if you've seen this post, but I've decided that we're going to work on some of your recipes. Please read the post to see the conditions and the expectations of having your recipe worked on!

Did anyone want to participate? Email me with your recipe and we'll troubleshoot it!

Carol - I can't imagine how warm Osoyoos is this weekend! I admire your ability to live in such a warm location!

Alexis - Can you send me the study? I'd love to see it! I have a week of holidays at the end of August for experimenting!