Friday, June 14, 2013

(Early) Weekend Wonderings: Using Honeyquat in a sugar scrub and creating a double boiler

My midterm went well - an A! - and life is getting less busy, so I thought I'd start this Friday off with some comments you've made over the last two weeks! I love hearing from you, so please comment wherever you can and I'll be sure to see it! Or visit the Weekend Wonderings post and share that thing you've always wanted to know! I do check there first when writing these posts! 

In this post on honeyquat, Anonymous asks: Would you recommend using honeyquat in a sugar scrub either emulsified or a regular oil based scrub? Would it be hard to preserve? I am using a preservative.

When considering using an ingredient, ask yourself a few questions: Why does this ingredient appeal to you? What kind of ingredient is it, water soluble or oil soluble? Into which phase should you include it?  How much should you use? And can you find it easily?

Why do you want to include the ingredient? What is it about honeyquat that appeals to you? It's a positively charged or cationic polymer that offers conditioning properties that behaves as a humectant. It sounds like a great inclusion in an emulsified scrub! It's positively charged, so it will work well with a neutrally charged emulsifier like Polawax or e-wax, or a positively charged one like BTMS-50 or Ritamulse BTMS-225. Sounds like a good fit.

Want to know more about cationic, anionic, and non-ionic. Click here for that post

Is it water soluble or oil soluble? It's water soluble, so it would work with the emulsified scrub, but not the oil based scrub. (Click here for more on this topic!)

Into which phase should we include it? The cool down phase! Honeyquat is heat sensitive! (Click here for the post on how to figure out into which phase an ingredient should go!)

How much should I include? Up to 5% in the cool down phase.

Can I find this easily? It depends upon where you live, but I can get it at quite a few shops in Canada now. If you can't, then consider using something similar. For instance, you could use another cationic polymer like polyquat 44 or polyquat 7, but they don't tend to be humectants. You'd get the awesome conditioning power, but you'd have to find something else like glycerin to be the humectant.

So what's the verdict? Yep, you could use it at up to 5% in the cool down phase of an emulsified scrub. If you're making an oil based scrub, it wouldn't work.

There are other things to consider like cost - honeyquat isn't a cheap ingredient - and whether or not you really have a cool down phase in an emulsified scrub - I don't think it gets down to 45˚C - but these are the main ones!

And I'm happy to see you're including preservatives in your oil based and emulsified scrubs! We must always use preservatives in products that might be exposed to water! (Click here for that link!)

In this post on my new solid perfume Snapguide, Andrea asks: I took a quick look at your Snapguide and it reminded me that I've been meaning to ask you about the set up of a double boiler. I've seen someone create a double boiler by adding water to a frying pan and setting a Pyrex measuring bowl on top of it. It struck me that this set up defeated the whole purpose of the double boiler since the Pyrex was in direct contact with the bottom of the frying pan. Am I wrong in my thinking?

Yeah, I often forget to put the rack at the bottom of my electric fondue pot/double boiler, but what we're looking for is a more indirect type of heat than putting it in a pot on the stove. The water works to heat the ingredients more slowly than if you put the ingredients in a pot and heated them directly, which is a good thing as we don't want to risk burning the ingredients. Without a rack, the containers might be in contact with the bottom of the pan, but I honestly haven't seen a big difference between having the rack and not having the rack in temperature.

Having said all of this, experience has shown me that using the rack is a good idea. I've lost two really large Pyrex jugs full of expensive ingredients when they cracked on me! Pyrex might be heat resistant, but they can only take so much abuse!

Related posts:
Questions about heating vessels
Question: How do you define a double boiler?

Join me tomorrow for more Weekend Wonderings!


IrishMolly said...

Hello Swift! Congratulations on the A!
Two questions:
- I had sent you an email a week ago about a leave in spray, I have tried more tweaks since then and am really stuck. Do you have any ideas or advice to suggest? Any help would be appreciated. I have looked and tried Special Chem 4 Cosmetics formulas as well with no luck.

- Question Two SCI with stearic acid. I cannot find a USA Supplier that sells SCI with stearic acid. I was able to find SCI with out stearic acid and it is amazing but I am having the worst problems hardening shampoo bars. I am up to 8% stearic acid and they are still loosing their hardness after one use. I looked up the MSDS on the companies that make SCI with Stearic Acid and one has 60% actives, less than 10% coconut oil and more than 25% Stearic Acid. Why do the amounts not add up to 100%? Another is Geropon® AS-200 Flake that has Sodium Cocoisethionate 60%, Coconut Acid 10% and Stearic Acid 25%. Tauranol® I-78/80 has 20% Stearic Acid with 65% actives. Jordapon CI-65 has 24-28% free fatty acid, 64-68% Active content and 2% Water content.
Should I be adding something like 20-25% Stearic Acid for the SCI Baby Foam active surfactant level of 84%? How can I break down the formula when it does not add to 100%? I have tried up to 8% Stearic Acid and it still melts in the shower. I use up to 51% powder to try to remove as much moisture as I can - 26% SCI and 25% SLSa. 11% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 15% Polyglucose/Lactylate Blend, 4% DEA, 8% Stearic Acid, 3% BTMS, 2% oil, 2% protein. Cool Down - 2% Panthenol, 2% EO, and .5 Germall Plus plus citric acid for ph adjustment as needed. Any Suggestions on bar hardness? Should I up the Powder Surfactants, lower the liquid surfactants? Add 10-20% Stearic Acid? Thanks!

Lorraine said...

Thanks for writing about honeyquat! I just bought some and wanted to start experimenting with it so your blog post came at just the right time. :-)

IrishMolly said...

I just found this article

The finished sodium cocoyl isethionate has an approximate formula composition of:
75 % SCI
12 % Stearic Acid
8 % Coconut Fatty Acid
3 % Sodium Isethionate
2 % Miscellaneous

I would add up to 12% stearic acid? If my product has 84% actives does that mean that I add 16%? Or ? I am so lost I think I need another cuppa coffee. I have the tools but I feel as though I am missing something huge. I Apologize if its right in front of me

Krista Cintron said...

I wanted to leave a comment regarding the frying pan as double boiler concept.

I've found another item that works very well also. For large formulations, such as shampoo, conditioner, lotions, toners 16 ounces up to 32 ounces, I bought a canner rack which sits very well inside a pot.
I then fill the pot with water and use it that way, or, put a smaller pot within the larger one and fill the larger pot (containing the canner rack) halfway.
It's fantastic!

Tara said...

I almost never use double boilers anymore. If you are very careful about monitoring temperatures, direct heat is perfectly safe to use :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Krista! The canner is a great idea. I have a huge canning pot that is perfect for larger batches, but my husband has decreed that pot is for food. (He's a lovely man, and rarely decrees anything, but I do have a habit of co-opting his tools for bath & body stuff. I didn't realize you could use a stick blender for food until I saw it on Iron Chef one day!)

Hi Tara! I don't have that kind of attention to detail. My stuff would burn so quickly!