Saturday, March 16, 2013

Weekend Wonderings: Magacamianussol?, new ingredients, and the importance of pH in a shampoo

Have a weekend wondering? Have a question for which you can't find an answer or something that's been bugging you for weeks? Visit this post and share your weekend wondering with us!

In this post, Lise asks: Have you ever come across this ingredient: Magacamianussöl (from an ingredients list with purely INCI names). There is a make-up company advertising their stuff as 100% natural with this ingredient listed in almost every product. It's not often I hit a brick wall researching an ingredient but this is looking a lot like crocodile oil to me and I'd be thrilled to hear any input you may have on this.

I'm sorry to say, Lise, but I have no idea. If you do a Google search, you'll find only a handful of hits on this ingredient, and all but one of them are about this company, Benecos. (The other hit is this blog!) It is found in their blushes (like this one, Rose Mallow) and compact powders. I can't think of what it could be - I keep trying to figure out the word, but it doesn't appear to be English and the only German I can speak involves asking someone to help me because I have a turtle in my pants - so I wrote to the company to ask them about this ingredient. I'll report back as soon as I can!

Anyone know what this ingredient - magacamianussöl - might be? Take a guess if you don't! 

On a totally unrelated note, you don't see much about Paris Hilton any more. I guess her space in the celebrity eco-system has been usurped by the Kardashians.

In this post on Experiments in the workshop with a leave in conditioner, LaKenda asks: I have the volumizing complex but on thought to use it for fine hair (which I haven't formulated yet). Instead I have the curl complex which I have used to make a leave in conditioner and a styling cream. I also have the straightening complex and quite a few other items from them. I am a FSS junkie as you can see!. What other goodies did they send your way? I would love to see what you come up with.

I honestly love the volumizing complex! I was so upset that I spilled almost the entire bottle onto my bench and workshop floor when adding it to another container of leave in conditioner!

You'll see more experiments in the near future, but here are a few with which I've experimented already...
Cosmeceuticals: Revital-Eyes
Facial cleansers: Creating a low surfactant facial cleanser (honey matte)
Why did I buy that? Cera bellina - making an anhydrous eye gel (Phyto-oil)
Experiments in the workshop: Leave in conditioner with volumizing complex

For some reason, I can't find the toner we made with Party Face or liquid strawberry extract, but I've been loving those, and I've been playing with the liquid white willow bark, blemish balm complex, sebum control, pomegranate extract, and lemon extract. I tried the straightening & curl complex, but it didn't seem to make a difference because I don't heat treat my hair. My best friend has been testing it, but she isn't using it since she cut her hair very short, so I have it out for testing with others who have longer and heat treated hair.

Disclaimer: I hope I've made it clear, but I want to say this again - I received these samples from this supplier for free. I made them aware that I would be offering my honest opinion about the ingredients. I have not been compensated in any other way and I am not beholden to anyone. These are my opinions, and if I didn't like the product, I would say that I didn't like it. I am not compensated in any way for using or writing about the ingredients beyond getting free samples to play with in the workshop. 

Any suggestions for ingredients I should try? Make a comment!

In this post, rzonis writes: When formulating shampoos recently, I found that what I thought was the shampoo drying out my hair wasn't. It turns out that what I was feeling as dryness was actually my hair feeling rough because the (relatively) high pH of the shampoo was lifting the hair cuticles. I lowered the pH below 4.0 without changing any thing else in the formula, and the "dryness" I thought I was feeling went away completely.

Thank you so much for sharing! I don't think we can stress this enough - pH is really important when it comes to our hair products. Our hair prefers products that are pH 6.2 or lower (acidic) and virgin hair can be as low as pH 3.67. This is one of the reasons that CP soap doesn't make for a good shampoo - the pH is in the alkaline or over pH 8 range, and our hair really wants things to be lower than 6.2.

I've had quite a few people ask how to reduce the pH of their CP soap to make it into a shampoo, and the answer is that you can't. Its very nature is being alkaline, and to make it acidic would be to stop it from being CP soap and making it into something else.

Related posts:
Chemistry Thursday: How to measure pH?
Chemistry Thursday on Friday: Let's take a look at pH 
Chemistry of our hair: Virgin hair
Adjusting the pH of our products
A few thoughts about the pH of our skin
An aside: pH and lotions
Chemistry of our skin: pH and skin

And the reason for the Cinderella picture above? I thought the name of that ingredient reminded me of that song "Bippity Boppity Boo!"


Lise M Andersen said...

Hey Susan thanks for taking a look at this ingredient. I wrote the company as well but haven't heard back. I'm thinking it could perhaps be a misspelled German word because it is pretty close to the German word for macadamia nut oil. If that is the case. I have to wonder why they have included it on an INCI list... anyway, we'll see what turns up if the company ever answers.


Anonymous said...

That is what I think as well. That it is misspelled.


anja said...

I vote "German for macadamia nut oil" as well--macadamianussol--because no other word seems anywhere close. Also Benecos was founded in Germany. So at any rate it's "something"-nut-oil. I've never heard of a "magacamia", and when I search for that Google asks if I meant "macadamia".

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I guess my other question is why no preservatives? The company is willing to use polyglycerol-3-stearate as an emulsifier, glyceryl caprylate caprate (Ecocert) as a thickener, and Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate as a high HLB emulsifier (see their foundation), but they don't use preservatives? I guess they're using the grain alcohol as a preservative. Too drying for my tastes!

p said...

I'm joining the chorus that it's probably macadamia nut oil, in German, but with a typo.

goodgirl said...

I agree with the others, it has to be Macadamianussöl with a serius typo ;). Seems to be a German company, anyway.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

The company responded and you were right!

Susan in Alaska said...

Hi Susan, great article. How can you lower the pH of a liquid shampoo that is hot process - oils and potassium hydroxide? I already use sodium borate and the pH of final product (using quality pH meter) is 8.4. Thank you!