Sunday, March 31, 2013

Weekend Wonderings: Compensating for evaporation, adding water soluble ingredients to a serum, and citronellyl methylcrotonate.

In this Weekend Wonderings comment post, Anitra asks: This one's related to our heated water phases; When compensating for evaporation, do we need to compensate for any of the goodies (panthenol, glycerine, aloe, etc.) added to the heated water phase as well? Or are we just losing water? I've assumed the former, but thought I'd ask. 

In last weekend's Weekend Wonderings we took a look at compensating for evaporation, so your question is a logical extension of that! We are losing the water, for the most part. Some ingredients are quite volatile and will evaporate quite quickly - alcohol, for instance - but most will only lose the water and leave the solids behind. When we get something like aloe vera, we will lose some of the water, but the solids - polysaccharides, amino acids, and polyphenols - will be left behind.

Related posts:
Weekend Wonderings: Compensating for evaporation
Question: Compensation for evaporation
Surface area and our products

In the same post, Marjo asks: I make the dimethicone cyclomethicone serum too and was wondering if there is a way to add polyquat to it (since that is water soluble?) I use regular dimethicone. 

To add water soluble ingredients to your serum, you'll need an emulsifier. You can turn it into a lotion type product by adding an appropriate emulsifier - for instance, BTMS-50 might be a good idea if it's a hair product - but it will change the nature and skin/hair feel. You could consider using an emulsifier made for silicones - Lotioncrafter Serum SE, for instance - which would keep the consistency as a serum.

I wasn't sure which polyquat you were referring to, so the information here is a bit generic. 

If this is for your hair, consider using two products. A leave in conditioner with the polyquat in it and a serum. In an ideal world, we be able to make multitaskers that were awesome, but I have found that using two separate products is easier to formulate and still makes my hair happy!

In the Weekend Wonderings comment post, Simone asks: Hi Susan. I was wondering if you or any of your 'followers' have used a product called SINODOR®, made by Givaudan. INCI Name: Citronellyl Methylcrotonate. It is supposed to neutralise odours of the base product...I have issues with the fragrances of Chamomile and Witchhazel and some oils. My husband says that some ("a lot") of the products I make have a chemical smell to them (unrefined Shea butter, being one of the culprits) rather than a fragrance. Need I say that I am only making for my family at present, until I get this perfume issue sorted.

I'm wondering why you don't just use a fragrance or essential oil in your products? I find a lot of what I make smells a bit earthy - which I hate! - but 1% fragrance or essential oil can make a huge difference. From what I can tell, this ingredient appears to be used in "natural" deodorants. I haven't tried it.

Has anyone tried this ingredient? Tell us what you think! 

Join me tomorrow for a special long weekend edition of Weekend Wonderings! And if you have a question, why not pop over to the Weekend Wonderings comment post and share your thoughts?


Leslie said...

I've made your Basic Lotion Recipe for Dry Skin, Version 1 a couple of times and really like it. I always weigh the water phase prior to and after heating and holding and add back in any water lost. This weekend I made another batch and after I combined the water and oil phases I put my Pyrex in a large bowl of cool water to hasten the cool down phase. The lotion came out so creamy and light. I think that when I was just letting the lotion cool on it's own I was still losing a lot of water due to evaporation. Do you ever compensate for water loss during the cool down phase?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leslie! I've never noticed a ton of evaporation when the lotion is cooling, to be honest, so I've never thought to compensate for it. I will have to measure the potential loss next time I make a lotion. Great thought!

Simone said...

Thanks Susan for asking my question re Sinodor.
I do use EOs and FOs but my husband still says many of my products "smell weird". He thinks that they always have a base scent of chemical. I have sensitive skin and need the goodness of chamomile but it and witchhazel really overpower my products.
I think I have found a company that will supply me with a sample so if I receive any and find it has any marvel qualities I will let you know.
Thanks again for finding the time to respond to me.

Anitra said...

Thanks Susan! I appreciate you! I will have to take Leslie's experience into account as well. Although I'll need to test it, I too think I may have noticed a difference between my rapidly cooled emulsions and room temperature cooled emulsions.

Marjo said...

Thank you so much for letting me pick your brain again :)