Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Facial scrubs: More exfoliants...

We took a look at using BC Glacial clay, jojoba beads, and dermabrasion crystals in our surfactant based cleanser in yesterday's post, yesterday. Let's take a look at a few other exfoliants we could add.

AUSTRALIAN PINK CLAY (INCI Kaolin clay)
I bought some of this from Voyageur Soap & Candle because it's supposed to be good for sensitive skin. It can absorb oils from our skin.

I removed 100 grams of the cleanser and added 10 grams Australian pink clay to it. I mixed it well and let it sit before packaging.

As someone with oily and slightly sensitive facial skin, I can say that I really liked this product. I found it to be nicely exfoliating - not too scrubby - and it didn't feel like my skin had been stripped of all the oil. It is annoying that the clay falls to the bottom of the bottle, but I would have to increase the Crothix to make it suspend, and my skin doesn't like that much emolliency!

Emily, a young woman from my youth groups said, "The pink cleanser was refreshing and my skin felt clean and less greasy. It was a little runny, but overall awesome. Brit's face is so smooooooooth." (Brit is another young woman from our groups!) That sounds like a ringing endorsement to me! :-) 


CRANBERRY SEEDS (INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seeds)
I used 10 grams of seeds to 100 grams of cleanser, and I hated it. The seeds just rolled around on my skin and didn't really exfoliate much. I tried using higher levels, but they still just rolled on my skin as opposed to actually scrubbing anything. They didn't rinse off well - the cleanser rinsed off well, but the seeds just sat there until I used a towel to rub them off! 

I have given it out to my testers, but I haven't heard anything back yet. I will let you know their experiences. But I really hated this. To quote the Simpsons, "No one would buy this or accept it as a gift!"

Melian noted in this post, "I tried the cranberry seeds, but didn't like them. They just sorta mushed around on my face and collected between my fingers and didn't rinse away very well. So I tried grinding them in my spice grinder, and kept trying until I got them into a powder. I wasn't all that fond of the intermediate stages, so kept grinding. the powder was also unsatisfactory, it was scrubbier than using sugar, more like pumice. Plus, although it washed off right away and didn't stain, the sight of bright red face and hands was just too much for me. My poor, sore face after three scrubbings in the same day. (I know, how stupid can I be, right?) I didn't let it sit in there long enough to evaluate if the cranberry powder got soggy."

If you want to make this, you will need to thicken the cleanser as the seeds don't contribute to the viscosity of the product. I've already used 2% Crothix in the cleanser, but you could go a bit higher to 4% if you wish.

As with anything, your mileage may vary! What do you think of your cleanser or your exfoliant choice? Share your thoughts!

We'll be taking a look at using chemical exfoliants in our products in a few weeks when I have my results back from my testers! 

4 comments:

melian1 said...

i had a similar experience with cranberry seeds. (i commented yesterday), but basically, they didn't want to rinse off, they didn't really exfoliate.

Diva Soap said...

Ok, I just found this post, so I maybe should have shared my facial scrub here better than on 'Scrub with pumpkin oil' post, so I'll just copy my recipe here (please, feel free to remove eiher):

This is my facial scrub:
Oil phase:
10% BTMS 50
10% Cetyl
5% PS80
28% Sunflower oil
18% Apricot Kernel oil
16% Pumpkin seed butter (I made his butter using Butter-fix by GF)
10% Macadamia oil

Cool-down phase:
1% Vitamin E
1% Optiphen
1% Lavender e.o

As exfoliants I used: strawberry seeds, ground oatmeal and ground pumpkin seeds.
I was so exccited when received strawberry seeds, but I'm not that impressed with them in scrub. The seeds are too big and you need them a lot to feel the exfoliating effect. On the other side, I really like ground pumpkin seeds.
I choose not to add any butter here, because I don't like the oily feel leaving behind, especially not in my face.
But now, with the summer leaving, I'll try a version with shea only and with PS80 added(and possibly Alkyl Benzoate 12-15) to cut the greainess.

This facial scrub I really like, the skin is soft, well hydrated and there is no oil residue afterwards.

Unknown said...

Hi there,
I've been scrubbing my face with just pure clay (in water) for ages, but was recently alerted to its lead content. I am a total non-chemistry minded person, so was wondering if there's information somewhere about the risks of lead absorption through clay? Thanks so much for your amazing site! J

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Unknown. I have never seen this as a concern or even a topic of discussion. I cannot imagine that the lead content of clay is even remotely close to being a concern. (Hell, my ex used to work with melted lead without using gloves or any safety equipment, and there were no warnings on pure lead! :-) )