The reason I use high levels of surfactants is that I like my products concentrated. I like to use a titch of body wash on a poufy thing or a little bit of shampoo in the shower. It makes it easier to make the products a nice viscosity, and I find I use a lot less than I do if I'm using low concentration products.
Lotioncrafter). It is considered gentle and substantive, which is a bonus as I'm not planning on using anything like a toner or moisturizer on my skin after cleansing. I added it in the heated water phase of my product at 5%. The usage is suggested at 1% to 10%, although it is safe to 100%.
Substantivity is defined as "an adsorption phenomenon by which materials that have opposing charges or like composition are more readily adsorbed onto or attracted to its surface and, once there, resistant to subsequent rinse-off." In other words, a material that is positively charged - like our cationic ingredients - will be attracted to the surface of our hair or skin, both of which are negatively charged. This results in what we consider to be conditioned hair or skin.
I added some decyl glucoside as I wanted gentle cleansing and wasn't worried about the final pH level. And I finished up with some cocamidopropyl betaine to increase mildness and add a titch of viscosity.
In the water phase, I decided to replace some of the water with apple fruit essence (from Lotioncrafter) as I thought it could offer a little fragrance and astringency. I added some witch hazel and chamomile hydrosol to help with my really red face post-exercise. (I used the hydrosol as I wanted this product to be uncoloured. Using the powder would have made it a bit yellow and cloudy.)
I decided to use an ingredient the Formulator Sample Shop sent me for free - Honey Matte. I thought it would work well for my oily skin. (Click on the link to see the entire write up about this ingredient.) I added it to my foaming facial cleanser at 5% in the cool down phase. And I thought I'd try ginger root extract (from Lotioncrafter), which is supposed to offer anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidizing properties to a product, and it might help with maintaining protein levels in our skin. It has a suggested usage of 0.1% to 2%. I used it at 1% in the cool down phase. Finally, I chose calendula extract as it is good for inflammation. (I am really red after my 91 minute Viking work out!)
FOAMING SILK FACIAL CLEANSER
5% foaming silk surfactant
5% decyl glucoside
2.5% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% apple extract (liquid)
10% witch hazel
10% chamomile hydrosol
1% ginger root extract
5% honey matte
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% water soluble liquid calendula extract
The pH was 6.05, which is awesome!
I made this comment because I figured someone with really oily skin won't like a feeling of powderiness, but it seems like this is what someone with really oily skin is looking for - a matte feeling! So I'll leave this sentence in the post with the disclaimer that I think I was wrong here....
I haven't included some of my favourite ingredients, like hydrolyzed protein or panthenol, but that's okay. I will include a humectant in the next batch, maybe glycerin at 3%? I haven't decided yet.
If you wanted to make a product like this - a low concentration, foaming cleanser - you can substitute any surfactants you like and use only water and something that will cleanse your skin.
DISCLAIMER: Please note that I am not affiliated with any supplier or manufacturer. I do not take money or advertising from anyone so you know my opinions are my own. I do get free ingredients from time to time, but I buy most of them with my own wages. If I obtained the ingredients in a way other than paying for it from my own wages, I will make that very clear. In this case, the Formulator Sample Shop sent me a free 80 ml sample of honey matte for me to try in my products. I made it very clear to this company that I would offer my honest and unbiased opinion about the ingredient. I spent my own money to buy the other ingredients.