Sorry for the lack of posts this week! I was doing research - aka having great fun - in the workshop, and I wanted to do just that little bit more, and that ate into my post writing time. Plus I have a ton of products out for testing, so that's going to take another week or so to get those results. I do have some neat hair and facial care recipes coming up once I get those reviews! Plus, I have three physics assignments due on Monday and a mid-term for which I have to study, so life got busy this week! I will be getting to the slip and glide in conditioners post this week and the comparison of various esters as well!
In this post, Puntacoco Soaps said: I want to make shampoo. I already make liquid soaps out of virgin coconut oil. can i make shampoo with this liquid soap instead of using a surfactant?
I wouldn't make shampoo out of CP soap. In this post, I go into great detail as to why this isn't a good idea, but I'll summarize it here. Our hair likes things that have a pH below 6.5, things that are acidic. CP soap is alkaline - over pH 8 - and our hair doesn't like that kind of pH. (Soap is slippery feeling because alkaline things feel slippery!) Using something out of the pH range of what our hair likes can lead to all kinds of damage due to the cuticle scales not lying down flat and getting tangled. You might also have less shiny or dull looking hair. Once we damage our hair, we can't undamage it. We can mitigate it with awesome conditioners and moisturizers, but the damage remains done!
Before you write, I know some people love CP soap as shampoo. The biology of our hair says that we shouldn't, so your preference puts you in the minority. I love hearing about your experiences and hope you share, but I don't want this to turn into a post filled with insults and generally mean things because I don't agree with the way you wash your hair!
Chemistry of our skin: pH and the acid mantle (explains pH and adjusting it)
In this post, Yvonne said: You comment on how you left some unscented, that you will scent later...I did not realize you could do this...could you explain how you scent it later and can this also be done with lotion? Thanks.
Yes, you can! I go into great detail in this post - can I make up batches of product to scent later? - but I'll summarize it here. I'll make up a large batch of lotion with all the ingredients, except the fragrance oils, and store them in a clean ice cream container with a tight lid. When I'm in the mood for smelling more like Christmas than a cupcake, I remove the amount I want (generally 125 ml) and add the correct amount of fragrance (I like to use around 1% but you can go slightly higher or lower). I mix it with my stick blender, then funnel or pipe into my bottle. Ta-da!
If you don't like the look of this, get some cheap labels from store, put them on the bottle and cover them in packing tape to prevent them from getting damp and unreadable.
Creating products: Packaging - too many choices
In this same post, Rosi asks: Is BTMS 50, BTMS 25 and BTMS 255 gentle enought to use as i everyday leave in, as i have frizzy dry hair i need to apply a lot of leave in every other day to keep it down. Another question is what causes the tips of certain hair to be lighter than the rest of the hair ( brown hair).
Question the first: The quick answer is yes, they are gentle enough for every day leave in - it's all about concentration. When you take a look at conditioner recipes, you'll see that there are different amounts of the cationic emulsifier (Incroquat BTMS-50, Ritamulse BTMS-225, cetrimonium bromide, BTMS-25, and so on) depending upon the purpose. An intense conditioner will generally have more cationic emulsifier than an every day conditioner, which will have more than a leave in conditioner. The amount you use will also depend upon what needs emulsifying. For instance, if you're using a ton of oils, you'll need more emulsifier than if you're using a bit or none.
Yes, making a conditioner means you are making a lotion! It is an oil in water product, which makes it a lotion! You will notice it has all the properties of a lotion - a heated water phase, a heated oil phase, and a cool down phase - and you have an emulsifier in the form of your cationic quaternary compound or the Incroquat BTMS-50, etc. A lotion is something with an oil phase and a water phase that we bring together through the process of emulsification. If you've been scared of making a lotion but like making conditioners, you've already made lotions! So make some more! I have lots on the blog using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier, so you don't even need to buy anything new! What's your excuse now? :-)
For instance, for my frizzy, oily hair, I like to use no more than 7% in a rinse off product and generally no more than 2% in a leave in product (although I often use 1%). This is because at over 7%, I notice my hair gets oily very quickly. I'm finding that I like 3.5% BTMS-50 or BTMS-225 these days. And my hair is way too oily to handle more than 1% BTMS-50 or BTMS-22 in a leave in conditioner.
If you have really dry hair, you might find that 10% BTMS-50 isn't enough and 5% in a leave in conditioner is barely making a dent. If you can handle using a leave in conditioner every day, then use it! Just make sure that you wash your hair well when you get into the shower again!
There are always concerns about build up of conditioner on our hair. If you are using a good shampoo, this isn't an issue. If you aren't using shampoo or a surfactant based cleanser on your hair, this can be an issue. If you aren't using shampoo, consult the website of the procedure you're following to learn more.
Conditioner: What's that then?
Conditioners: Defining our conditioners
Hair care section of the blog
cortex or shaft of our hair that surrounds the medulla. As our hair sustains more damage, including normal wear and tear as it grows longer, the colour gets lighter. This can be because we're damaging the cuticle! It doesn't matter how well you've taken care of your hair, daily friction from hair strand rubbing against hair strand can leave your cortex a little less protected, resulting in the loss of some melanin. Some of this has to do with refraction of light as well - how the light bounces off our hair to make our hair look shinier, for instance - but the key culprit is the wear and tear on longer hairs!
friction from your hair strands rubbing against each other or the hair band you're wearing or a million other reasons, and we reduce that friction by using a nice conditioner. It doesn't have to be a major one - if your hair is fine, try a 1% BTMS-50 or 1% BTMS-225 or a 1% Incroquat CR cream rinse to reduce that friction. I really do know what it means to be living with the damage I caused years and years ago! I know some people say you only need to condition below your ears, but there's a whole lot of hair above those ears that are experiencing damage through styling, dying, perming, straightening, and rubbing that you want to be healthy by the time they get to your shoulders!
I have some serious first hand experience with hair damage. The front bit of my hair was caught in a Dremel drill a few years ago, and it is very very spiral curled and extremely blond at the end. You don't need to lecture me about putting my hair back when I craft - I know to do this, but I can't due to muscle spasms in my head that cause me great pain when I put on a hair net, put it in a pony tail, etc. But thank you for worrying about me! The point is that once damaged, that section of hair will never ever be the same! Which is why I worry so much about damaging our hair!
An overview of the chemistry of our hair
Chemistry of our hair: Medulla and cortex
Chemistry of our hair: The cuticle!
Chemistry of our hair: Straight, curly, or frizzy!
Chemistry of our hair: Good condition
Chemistry of our hair: Quick summary of damaged hair
Have a question you'd like answered? Click here for the weekend wonderings wonderings post and comment there!