Friday, February 15, 2013

Question: What's the deal with coco-caprylate caprate?

In this post, Aesthete asks: Based on your experience with Coco-Caprylate Caprate, how is it compared to C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate and dimethicone? Occlusive? Spreading? After-feel? Is it comedogenic?

Great question, Aesthete! I decided to do a little test by comparing coco-caprylate caprate against fractionated coconut oil (INCI caprylic/capric triglycerides), C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and cetearyl ethylhexanoate. I poured each one into a small shot glass and tested a few things: colour, clarity, viscosity, skin feel upon contact, play time, skin feel after 20 minutes, and skin feel after two hours.

Clarity: All of them were clear.

Colour: I would call of them uncoloured.The coco-caprylate caprate claims to be yellowy in colour, but it looked clear to me.

Viscosity: Coco-caprylate caprate was about the same viscosity as the fractionated coconut oil. I found the cetearyl ethylhexanoate was the same or slightly thicker. C12-15 alkyl benzoate was definitely the thickest of the four.

Skin feel: Fractionated coconut oil and coco-caprylate caprate went onto my skin very easily and I spent quite a bit of time rubbing each into my skin. They felt nice and silky on my skin. Cetearyl ethylhexanoate went onto my skin very easily, but I couldn't rub it in as long as I could the others. (This is called "play time". So cetearyl ethylhexanoate has a shorter play time than fractionated coconut oil and coco-caprylate caprate.) C12-15 alkyl benzoate felt slightly thicker than the others, but it too went onto my skin easily. It had less play time than the other three, and it felt like there was a slightly thicker coating of the ester on my skin, but it was a nice feeling.

Play time: Fractionated coconut oil and coco-caprylate caprate definitely had a longer play time than cetearyl ethylhexanoate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate.

Skin feel after 20 minutes: All four felt quite dry and silky on my skin, but the cetearyl ethylhexanoate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate definitely felt like there was a slightly heavier layer, which felt more moisturizing.

Skin feel after two hours: I can still feel the C12-15 alkyl benzoate on my arm, but the others feel gone. It feels as if there's a light layer of occlusive oil on my skin offer moisturizing. I can still kind of tell where the cetearyl ethylhexanoate was on my arm, but if I didn't know where I'd applied the fractionated coconut oil and coco-caprylate caprate, I wouldn't know where to find it. (Which really shows I should have done some kind of blind test, but everyone else in the house was busy when I had some workshop time!)

In all honestly, I couldn't really tell the difference between fractionated coconut oil and coco-caprylate caprate. They looked the same colour and had the same viscosity. They felt the same going onto my skin and felt the same in the 20 minute and two hour test. Again, if this had been a blind test, I don't think I would have felt a difference as they seem really really close in nature.

Next step: Test it against dimethicone and ethylhexyl palmitate as Aesthete suggests. Join me tomorrow for that comparison!


Lise M Andersen said...

Looking forward to the test against dimethecone!

Anonymous said...

Hi Swift!
Do you know the required hlb for coco caprylate/caprate? I can't find it anywhere!

joyce revan said...

Hi I am new to this blog and product making in general. I have a recipe forconditioner which calls for silicone but would like to replace with coco caprylate I would like to know if I need to add it in the heated oil or water fase or is it added in the cool down. Any advise would be appreciated thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Joyce. Add it to the heated oil phase. It can handle it!

Michael D. said...

Hey, I feel like I may have asked this question before (in which case I'm sorry for breaking typical forum etiquette and double posting), but, I was wondering where I could purchase Coco Caprylate/Caprate (without it being incredible bulk). Please help if you can :) Thank you. I'm located in the US if that helps at all.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michael. No, I'm sorry I don't. I bought mine at the Personal Formulator, but they don't seem to have it any more. You can check the FAQ for the suppliers' posts to see if you can find another option there.

Unknown said...
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Michael D. said...

@Susan! No problem! I appreciate the response and keep up the great work :) Without you I never would've loved this cosmetic chemistry stuff! Thanks for being an inspiration.

Erin Schullman said...

@Michael D. I am having a similar issue. I found it from as Saboderm CV, but that from Europe.

John Heath said...

Hi Sue

I see coco-caprylate appearing in a lot of "oil-free" moisturizers. What constitutes an "oil-free" moisturizer? It seems to me a lot of them use oil-derived ingredients anyway

Tx and regards

The Primrose Petal said...

Thank you for this post! I was considering buying some Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate but do have the triglycerides. I did order a sample of the Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate so I will compare them and see which I need!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi John! I'm so sorry I missed your comment. I have written about it for Saturday, May 28th's Weekend Wondering. The short answer is that it seems that "oil free" means free of oils, not oil soluble ingredients.

DeeDee said...

For Michael and others looking for Coco-caprylate in Canada or at least North America, I have found it at Les Âmes Fleurs, a company based in Quebec, Canada. Cannot recommended them highly enough. Hope this helps!! :) DeeDee

Himani Tripathi said...

Hi there! I am new to skin care and personal products. I have recently joined a new company which is into skin care products and for now I am an intern. My project is to make a CC cream stick. I would like to know the basics of how to make a CC cream stick and the parameters to worry about. I would really appreciate the help.

Thank you,