Thursday, February 7, 2013

Fun in the workshop: Modifying the rice bran oil hand protector cream

Raymond is doing a lot of work with his hands at his job, and I trash my hands regularly with all the sewing, knitting, crocheting, and other crafting I do, not to mention the cleaning up afterwards, so I thought I'd make some of this hand protectant to help us both. I like this recipe as it is quite thick and occlusive without being greasy, which means I can text, write, or play games on my iPad shortly after applying it.

I've put some occlusive ingredients - allantoin and dimethicone - and some less greasy feeling esters to suit my husband's tastes in skin feel. I added Vitamin E to offer some softening properties.

If you want to see the original recipe, visit this post! It will explain more why I chose the ingredients I did!

41% water
3% glycerin
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% calendula extract (water soluble)
0.5% allantoin

9% Polawax
3% behenyl alcohol
8% cetearyl ethylhexanoate
10% rice bran oil
10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
2% beeswax
2% IPM

2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% fragrance
0.5% - 1% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% Vitamin E

Use basic lotion making instructions to create this product.

This is a really thick lotion, so I put mine into these tottle or Malibu bottles. You will want to use a jar or something very squish-able to store it. It feels a bit greasy for the first few minutes, but then you'll get a powdery feeling, but not too powdery. I absolutely love this lotion, to be honest.

If you don't like silicones, feel free to leave out the dimethicone and substitute more oils. If you don't like esters, use a light oil like fractionated coconut oil. If you don't have behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol is a great choice, although it will feel less powdery, whereas using cetearyl alcohol makes it feel a little waxier. It is not a good idea to use Ritamulse SCG for the emulsifier because of the large oil phase. As with any changes, substituting different ingredients will result in a different skin feel.

I had intended to add 10% aloe vera and 5% water soluble calendula, but I'm out of the former and had little of the latter, and I encourage you to choose some water soluble things that might make your version even more awesome! I fragranced it with Cool Water after Raymond suggested that Clementine Cupcake wasn't the most manly fragrance around!

Well, I'm a little tired after a day of super happy crafting workshop fun! More tomorrow before we continue with the surfactant based facial scrub posts!


Michele Clarke said...

Oh I just made a lotion with rice bran for the first time last week. I like it.

What are the chances of it staining clothes/sheets at 3%?

Marjo said...

Great post! Will make a testbatch today without esthers :)

Anonymous said...

Hi Swift, I so love your blog. I have learned a phenomenal amount from you. My favoritest purchased hand lotion in the world comes from iColoniali in Italy. It has glycerin, cetearyl, PEG-32, cocoglycerides, rice bran oil, allantoin and silicones and some other ingredients that sound harder to find. I think your new rice bran oil lotion might feel very very similar to the iColoniali - similar main ingredients - so I'm going to try it! I love the idea of esters with rice bran oil! It's so much fun making your own products. Thank you for your recipes! Ann Marie

elle said...

rice oil makes a great ingredient because it has more vitamin e than olive oil!!

Will said...

Would you say this falls into the realm of barrier creams?

Since you (and your guests) taught me how to make creams two years ago my thumb hasn't split during the winter - a record. I can even preserve stuff now, although I use two preservatives, LG+ and Optiphen -- before you lecture me it's just for my use.

I still hate shiny lotions, but barrier creams interest me - mostly for nighttime.

Thanks, Will

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Will! I would call this a barrier cream. Use cetearyl alcohol if you want to make something more occlusive feeling. I think it's awesome we contributed to your thumb feeling better! This is why I do what I do - I love the idea that you've made something that brings you that kind of relief!

As for the preservatives, you aren't going overboard with one type of preservative, so where would I find issue with this? If you wanted to use 2% of something that was only 0.5%, I'd have an issue, but you have a bunch of different preservatives, so you're good. I would never tell you not to preserve!

Hi Marjo and Ann Marie? So, did you make some?

Anonymous said...

Hi Swift! I'm waiting for the cetearyl ethylhexanoate to come by UPS and I will let you know!! My favorite Italian skin cream has as the 6th ingredient polymethyl methacrylate. I read on Truth in Aging that it was a "plastic filler." I think I'll just leave that out. I will let you know how it turns out when I try it! Rice bran oil with FCO is so much my favorite oil mix for lotion. I can't wait to try this new recipe of yours. -- Ann Marie

AMJ said...

Hi Susan, I made the rice bran oil hand protector recipe recently. This is a very protective and healing cream! I prefer a more powdery feel. I used cetyl alcohol instead of behenyl alcohol because I didn't have any. I could change that. I'm also thinking of 1) adding 2% cyclomethicone; 2) changing the polawax for BTMS. I generally love rice bran oil so I think I'll leave that. Would that do the trick for making the lotion more powdery? It's hard to stop obsessing about the perfect lotion once you get started with formulating. Thanks! Ann Marie

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi AMJ. The behenyl alcohol really makes it feel more powdery, but you don't have any, so that doesn't help, eh? Both of the changes you propose are good choices for making it feel drier. I definitely obsess when I get a lotion recipe into my head. I have to remind myself to get into the workshop and try out my modified recipes instead of tweaking them further!