Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Blame Michele for enabling you: Ideas for new ingredients

In this post, Michele writes: I wonder what I can purchase next to try. I like to buy an ingredient I would use in more than one type of product. 

I want to put this out there before I even think about responding to this question...You asked for it. When you read about a few of these ingredients I would like to suggest and want to buy them, remember that you specifically asked me to make some suggestions. I am not responsible for your maxed out credit card!

Please note: I'm suggesting these ingredients because I like them. I have not been paid to like them. I buy almost all my ingredients with my wages from suppliers I like. I do receive free ingredients from time to time, and I will tell you when those ingredients are given to me. I make it clear to the companies that send me these items that I will be completely honest about my opinion.

One ingredient I really love right now is polyquat 44, a cationic polymer that can be used in quite small amounts in hair care and body care products. I'm using it at 0.5% in my leave in conditioner, 0.5% in my rinse off conditioner, and 0.5% in my body wash and I notice when it's not there. My hair feels a little softer and easier to manage with it in those products, and I think my skin feels more moisturized. (It's hard to say when my skin feels more moisturized, but it's easy to notice soft hair!) This can be used in facial cleansers, facial toners, moisturizers (not with Ritamulse SCG, though), body washes, make-up removers, and any and all hair products.

The only place I've found this ingredient is at the Personal Formulator. Do you have other suggestions?

Related posts:
Workshop! Workshop! Workshop! (Leave in conditioner recipe)
Experiments in the workshop: Hand soap with SCI and polyquats
Question: Can we make a clear leave in conditioner?
Formulating for dry skin: What else could we include in a body wash?
Experiments in the workshop: Facial cleanser with a ton of extracts - modified
Men's products: Recipes for a 3-in-1 body wash and shampoo
Summer products: Aloe vera apres sun spray
Experiments in the workshop: Intense conditioner with all my conditioning agents
Do a search for polyquat 44 for more recipes...There are quite a few!

Another ingredient I'm enjoying is behenyl alcohol. It is incredibly multi-functional and can be used in hair care products as a booster to the cationic quaternary compound, as a thickener in our lotions, as a thickener in anhydrous products like whipped butters or lotion bars, and as the sole "oil free" moisturizer in a number of lotion or moisturizer recipes. Use it anywhere you might use cetyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Try it in something like this attempt to make a shea butter without using shea butter as the thickener!

I bought my behenyl alcohol at the Herbarie, but you should be able to buy it in other places 

Related posts:
Experiments in the workshop: Behenyl alcohol in a lotion
Experiments in the workshop: Behenyl alcohol in a conditioner
Experiments in the workshop: Behenyl alcohol in an intense conditioner with butters
Experiments in the workshop: Behenyl alcohol in my Ritamulse emulsified scrub
Experiments in the workshop: Using behenyl alcohol in sugar scrubs (Polawax)
Fun in the workshop: Modifying the rice bran oil hand protector
Making an eye cream: Part one
Making an eye cream: Tweaking the oils
Making an eye cream: Tweaking it with other emulsifiers

Finally, I think I'm having a serious love affair with ACI (ammonium cocoyl isethionate). It's a liquid version of SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionate) that is easy to mix into my creations and offers that same elegent conditioned skin feel. I think I'm using it as a surfactant in just about every product I'm making these days, from body wash to facial cleanser to shampoo bars!

I bought my ACI at Aquarius Aroma & Soap, but you can buy it in other places. 

This body wash is slightly brownish thanks for the powdered white willow bark I add at 0.5% in the cool down phase. It might not be the prettiest thing you've ever seen, but it is wonderful in the shower! I based it on this body wash recipe, changing the SCI for ACI and the Cromollient SCE and Crodamol STS for 5% water soluble shea and using only 0.5% white willow bark. It really is my favourite recipe!

Any suggestions for multi-functional ingredients? And there will be more posts of this nature!


catherine said...

I actually love micheles question. I read up a little on behenyl alcohol on ur blog. Just curious, have u found it vastly different from cetyl alcohol? To me they seem similar so I'm not sure why to have both.

What ingredients have u bought that u *would not* buy again? I know this can be controversial but it would be so helpful. For me, I'll never buy again:
- powdered soy isoflavones from bulkactives: smells exactly like soy sauce. Feels ok but I can't get past the smell.
- powdered pomegranate extract from bulkactives: at even the lowest % it makes my lotion gummy and awful feeling

Marjo said...

Hydrolyzed silk!

Michele Clarke said...

I am thinking about Polysorbate 20 & attempting soap from grated rebatch Goat's Milk. ;-)

I love supporting local merchants but if I could make it on my own I would save $2 per bar.

I would not buy some hydrolysis. They can be pricey. I didn't calculate the formula before purchasing and used the whole expensive bottle on one recipe.

Mychelle said...

Lactic acid, cetearyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, xanthan gum, and milk protein are the ingredients I've added to my staples over the last year. Love them all. Now I want to look into behenyl alcohol...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Milk protein? What is that like? As a lactate, milk is normally my enemy, but I'm curious!

Michele Clarke said...

Licorice root extract! I wouldn't use that again. Not worth the price for the usage.