Monday, January 21, 2013

Facial scrubs: Working on our surfactant base - part 3

If you feel lost reading this post, please check out the previous posts on working on our surfactant base recipe part one and part two

As I mentioned in this post, no one wants to have that horrible tight and dry feeling after we've washed our skin, and we need to make sure we're keeping that goal in our minds. Let's check! We're using a concentration of our surfactants at 40% or less and we're using surfactants that rinse off cleanly, so the final component is to add ingredients that will increase the rinse-off-ability of the product. We will also also consider re-fattening the skin by introducing an oil soluble ingredient like glycol distearate and water soluble esters! Most of these ingredients do double duty as mildness enhancers, humectants, conditioners, thickeners, or moisturizers, so they are most welcome in a facial product!

INGREDIENTS THAT INCREASE THE RINSE-OFF-ABILITY OF THE FACIAL CLEANSER
By adding cationic or non-ionic ingredients - cationic polymers like polyquat 7honeyquat, or cationic guar gum or non-ionic ingredients like PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or polysorbate 80 - which also increase mildness. We can include non-ionic water soluble esters - like water soluble shea butter, PEG-7 olivateCromollient SCE, or Caprol Micro Express - as emollients and mildness enhancers that will help our products rinse off more cleanly!

I admit it, I love cationic polymers! Adding 2% polyquat 7 in the heated oil phase or honeyquat at 3% in the cool down phase seems to make quite a big difference in how my skin feels after rinsing. (As someone with oily skin, I'm always looking for ways to condition or moisturize my skin without oils, and the cationic polymers are such a great way to do both!) I encourage all skin types to try one of these in your facial cleanser. I'm going to choose 2% polyquat 7 in my heated water phase because it's cheaper than honeyquat and I'm out in the workshop! If you want to use honeyquat - it works as a humectant and skin conditioner - remember to use it in the cool down phase of your product!

Related post: How do you know into which phase we should add an ingredient?

SAMPLE BASE FOR A FACIAL CLEANSER WITH PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS modified to include glycerin and polyquat 7
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
54.5% distilled water
3% glycerin
2% polyquat 7

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

SAMPLE BASE FOR A FACIAL CLEANSER WITH PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS modified to include glycerin, polyquat 7, and PEG-7 olivate
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
48.5% distilled water
3% glycerin
5% PEG-7 olivate (or another water soluble oil)

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
3% honeyquat

INGREDIENTS THAT RE-FATTEN THE SKIN
The esters mentioned above will also re-fatten your skin after washing, although people with oily skin might want to give them a miss as they can make our skin feel oily after rinsing. I like to use water soluble shea butter in my body washes for this purpose at up to 5%, but I find that is way too much for my oily skin when it comes to facial cleansers. The great thing about using water soluble esters or solubilizers like Cromollient SCE or Caprol Micro Express is that they beheave as rinse off enhancers, mildness increasers, and moisturizers!

SAMPLE BASE FOR A FACIAL CLEANSER WITH PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS modified to include glycerin, polyquat 7, and Caprol Micro Express
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
48.5% distilled water
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
5% Caprol Micro express

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Consider using glycol distearate in our facial scrub. It gives the product a lovely pearlized effect - something that just screams "I'm moisturizing!" - and it thickens the scrub, both of which are awesome features! We use this at up to 3% in our heated water phase, but I suggest starting at 1% and working your way up from there.

You can use glycol distearate with physical exfoliants, but I thought I'd show you how to use it with AHAs in this sample recipe. 

SAMPLE BASE FOR A FACIAL CLEANSER WITH CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS modified to include glycerin, honeyquat, panthenol, and glycol distearate
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
47.5% distilled water
3% glycerin
5% AHA
1% glycol distearate

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
3% honeyquat
3% panthenol

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at increasing viscosity of our products by using ingredients like Crothix or gums!

2 comments:

Terri said...

I have been using honeyquat in the heated water phase of several products. For instance, your recipe for Modified Body Butter for Dry Skin says to include it in the water phase. This post says honeyquat should be added only to the cool-down phase. Can you clarify?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Terri. I wish you'd put this in another post more related to that recipe or honeyquat because I only just saw it! I'm not sure to which recipe you refer - the link is broken - but honeyquat always goes into the cool down phase as it's heat sensitive! (<a href="http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/04/better-crafting-through-chemistry_23.html>Click here for that ingredient post.</a>) If you see this, can you send me the link again so I can modify it?