Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Facial scrubs: Tweaking the surfactant base recipe!

If you feel lost reading this post, please check out the previous posts on working on our surfactant base recipe part onepart twopart three, and part four

I think we've come up with a few ideas for surfactant bases that will work for various skin types.  As with any product you want to make, learning about the ingredients that might work well with your skin type is always a good idea, and it will help you make decisions about what ingredients to buy and what combinations to try to create something awesome!

As you read this consider this: Are you going to use another product after using this facial cleanser? I generally wash my face and don't use a moisturizer, so I want to put all kinds of things in this product that might be left behind after rinsing. If you are planning to use a toner and/or a moisturizer, it might be that you just want to use a cleanser to clean your skin and you'll get those other lovely things from using your leave on products.

I just wanted to remind you to use caution about adding essential oils to our products. Here's a post on the topic

For dry skin, I suggest including humectants, conditioners, mildness enhancers, re-fatteners, and thickeners. (I really encourage you to visit this post on creating skin cleansers for dry skin as I don't want to go over it again here as this post will be long enough as it is! Visit this post or this post for more ideas on what ingredients dry skin might love! And visit here for a foamer bottle recipe you could use as the base of a facial scrub.) Feel free to modify this with AHA at up to 10% in the heated water phase. Remove an equal amount of water.

SURFACTANT BASE FOR DRY SKIN TO WHICH WE'LL ADD PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice (consider polyglucose/lactylate blend or SMC taurate)
15% cocamidopropyl betaine

44.5% distilled water
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
5% water soluble ester
2% glycol distearate

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

AFTER THE PRODUCT HAS REACHED ROOM TEMPERATURE BUT BEFORE YOU ADD YOUR PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS
up to 2% liquid Crothix

For oily skin, I suggest including humectants, conditioners, mildness enhancers, and thickeners. We'll leave out the re-fatteners as our skin type generally doesn't benefit from having extra oil added to it. You can use any chemical exfoliants you prefer in this recipe. 3% to 5% Multifruit BSC has worked well for me!

SURFACTANT BASE FOR OILY SKIN TO WHICH WE'LL ADD PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice (consider C14-16 olefin sulfonate or disodium laureth sulfosuccinate)
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
51.5% distilled water
3% polyquat 7 or other cationic polymer
3% glycerin

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)

AFTER THE PRODUCT HAS ROOM TEMPERATURE BUT BEFORE YOU ADD YOUR PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS
up to 2% liquid Crothix

For those of you wondering why I'm leaving out my normal things like hydrolyzed proteins and panthenol, I thought I'd try formulating differently, which is why I started working on this product from scratch. I admit it's hard to get out of my comfort zone because I like the ingredients I like, and in the end, I don't think I've strayed that far from something I would normally make, but it's an interesting challenge! As well, that's kinda what this post is about! 

What can we do here to tweak these recipes? Let's take a look at a few hydrosols we could use to alter the water part of the recipes. Keep in mind that some things might be more awesome in a leave on product than a rinse off product!

All of these tweaks are suitable for all skin types, so it's up to you to decide if you want to use them or not! I suggest you open these posts or sections of the blog as we work through this post...
I like aloe vera. I like that it offers moisturizing and soothing, and I like to use it at 10% in my products. I have gone as high as 30%, but I think 10% should work for us in this product. 

I've been using witch hazel a lot lately as it seems to work well to reduce redness on my skin, as well as keeping me from getting oily quickly. (Having said that, I'm getting older, and I'm finding I'm less oily than I was even a year ago!)

And I'm a huge fan of chamomile. You can add this as a hydrosol at up to 20% in the heated water phase, as a powder at 0.5% in the cool down phase, or as an essential oil at up to 1% in the cool down phase. (The essential oil does have a fragrance, if only slight, but it's enough that I couldn't use it in a facial product! It's mildly earthy!)

If I wanted to include these ingredients in my product, I'd add 10% aloe vera, 20% witch hazel, 10% chamomile hydrosol into the heated water phase and 0.5% powdered chamomile extract in the cool down phase. I would remove 40.5% from the distilled water amount to make room for these ingredients.



SAMPLE SURFACTANT BASE FOR OILY SKIN TO WHICH WE'LL ADD PHYSICAL EXFOLIANTS WITH LOADS OF CHAMOMILE, ALOE VERA, AND WITCH HAZEL
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% surfactant of choice (consider C14-16 olefin sulfonate or disodium laureth sulfosuccinate)
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
11% distilled water
20% witch hazel
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% polyquat 7 or other cationic polymer
3% glycerin

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)
up to 2% liquid Crothix

Let's say you're a big fan of chemical exfoliants - we could add up to 10% AHA in the heated water phase. I'm going to add Multifruit BSC at 5% in the heated water phase because I know from experience that using that amount won't mess up my pH much.

If we want to reduce irritation and increase a silky feeling in our product, a hydrolyzed protein works well here. Let's add hydrolyzed silk protein at up to 5% in the heated water phase.

Remember when we added oil based extracts into our oil based scrubs? We can add those extracts into our surfactant blends because most of our surfactants work well as solubilizers for oil based things. That's one of the reasons we can add fragrance or essential oils to shampoo, body wash, bubble bath, and so on without worrying too much about it coming out of the solution. I am having a love affair with the mallow extract lately, so I'm going to add 5% into the cool down phase to offer some refattening and slipperiness. I'm really enjoying it in my body wash, and I think people with dry skin will like it in a facial product!


SURFACTANT BASE FOR DRY SKIN WITH CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS, OIL SOLUBLE EXTRACTS, GLYCOL DISTEARATE, AND CATIONIC POLYMERS
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% polyglucose/lactylate blend
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
31.5% distilled water
3% polyquat 7
3% glycerin
5% water soluble ester
2% glycol distearate
5% Multifruit BSC
3% hydrolyzed silk protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% oil soluble mallow extract
up to 2% liquid Crothix

As a note, facial cleansers are great products into which we can add extracts that we might not want to leave on our skin like grapeseed extract or rosemary extract due to their extreme colour!


After all of this, if you just want a facial scrub that foams, stick with the base recipe. It contains all the stuff you need for a gentle to mild cleanser that should rinse off cleanly!

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at adding the exfoliants! Finally!!!

1 comment:

melian1 said...

i'm getting my things together for this (dry skin version), and i was wondering about a couple of things. i need to use a different preservative, so i was thinking germaben II (water sol; inci propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben; add below 100F). i also want to use salicyclic acid since that is what i have on hand. it can dissolve in glycerin and propylene glycol, so i was thinking i could combine the glycerin and germaben II and dissolve the salicyclic acid in there? is there any problem adding both the glycerin and salicyclic acid at that low a temp?

i was also thinking i would like to use part of this in a foamer bottle (without physical exfoliant and part add the physical exfoliant and use normally. would i just adjust the final product to a 10:1 water/cleanser for the foamer bottle and be ok? i'm thinking that i wouldn't need the crothix for the part i intend for the foamer bottle, only for the part i want thicker to be used with the physical exfoliant. is that thought correct?