emulsified sugar scrub. I love the fact that it exfoliates and moisturizes my skin with the added bonus of washing off more cleanly than an oil based scrub. It isn't much harder to make than the oil based scrub, but there are a few more steps and you'll definitely need to heat this!
Here's my basic recipe for an emulsified scrub...
EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB
10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, BTMS-50, BTMS-25 BTMS-225)
10% cetyl, cetearyl, or behenyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
10% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
10% shea or mango butter (or quite soft butter - shea aloe would be great here)
1% Vitamin E (optional)
2% fragrance or essential oil (optional)
Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.
When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.
Click here...) Choose from any of the physical exfoliants we covered in part one or part two of that topic.
Let's go over a few tweaks we could make for an emulsified scrub for your face...then I encourage you to check out this post on modifying sugar scrubs for your skin type!
EMULSIFIED FACIAL SCRUB #1 - OCCLUSIVE, dry feeling
10% cetyl alcohol
10% cocoa butter
10% mango butter
38% oils of choice (see below)
6% oil soluble green tea extract
4% oil soluble aloe extract
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
Note: I increased the oil amount by 2% because I'm leaving out the fragrance/essential oil for a facial product. And if you don't have the ingredients in a specific example, substitute what you have on hand for what I've used by referring to the general recipe above!
This recipe will produce a drier feeling sugar scrub. I chose BTMS-225 because it is a powdery feeling emulsifier but not as powdery as BTMS-50, which I find too powdery. (That word has lost all meaning now...) If you want something less powdery and greasier, consider using Polawax, e-wax, or another emulsifying wax!
I like cetyl alcohol because it thickens without making the product feel more waxy, which is what I find with cetearyl alcohol. I like cocoa butter for the occlusive nature and mango butter because it's a drier feeling butter that offers some great moisturizing! I added oil soluble green tea extract to get the awesome power of green tea - anti-oxidants rock! - and oil soluble aloe vera so I could get some of the anti-inflammatory nature of that ingredient.
As for oils...if you want this to be a drier feeling product, then consider using oils like hazelnut or macadamia nut. Yes, you can use grapeseed oil here, but it will have a shelf life of three month as opposed to up to a year with hazelnut and macadamia nut. If you find it's too dry, consider using light oils like sweet almond oil or apricot kernel oil or even fractionated coconut oil which will add a little more greasiness to the product without being overwhelming.
I've added dimethicone to this product to behave as an occlusive. (If you don't like it, don't use it. Just add 10% more oils of your choice to the heated phase.)
Join me tomorrow as we take a look at a few more tweaks for this emulsified scrub for our faces!