Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Facial scrubs: Adding oil based extracts

Oil soluble extracts of things we'd normally use as water soluble ingredients can add a little oomph to our oil based facial scrubs. A lot of these you'll find are extracts in fractionated coconut oil (capric/caprylic triglycerides) or a fairly neutral oil, like sweet almond oil. Let's take a look at a few of them we could use in our products!

Oil soluble green tea extract: The suggested usage is up to 6% in the cool down phase of the product. (Click on the link to learn more about this extract.)

45% fractionated coconut oil
47% rice bran oil
6% oil soluble green tea extract
1% Vitamin E (optional)
1% essential oil (optional)

Oil soluble aloe vera extract: You might find this in fractionated coconut oil (like at Brambleberry, suggested usage at 2% to 15%) or sunflower oil (like this one at Suds & Scents, which I've tried and love!) or soybean oil (like this one at the Herbarie, suggested usage at up to 50%). I've used at 10% in a body oil and absolutely loved it!

Aloe vera contains a ton of lovely anti-inflammatories, and it can make the product feel more slippery!

EXAMPLE BODY OIL WITH OIL SOLUBLE ALOE VERA EXTRACT (can easily be used as a facial oil, if you wish)
45% fractionated coconut oil
44% sesame oil
10% oil soluble aloe vera extract
1% fragrance or essential oil

Oil soluble mallow extract: I've only found this at one supplier, Brambleberry, and it's found in a base of fractionated coconut oil. It offers some slipperiness and moisturizing, as well as some reduction in reddening and inflammation. (I haven't been able to find much more than those claims in my research.) The suggested usage is up to 7%, and I absolutely adore this in a body oil. I haven't tried it in a facial scrub yet, but it does add some interesting slipperiness.

Oil soluble chamomile extract: Again, I've only found this at one supplier, Brambleberry. This is different than the essential oil because it is diluted with fractionated coconut oil. The liphophilic portion of chamomile oil contains coumarins, phytosterols, choline, and flavones, some of which are good at reducing inflammation and redness. I don't know about the suggested usage levels of this ingredient, but I've been using it at 10% in my whipped butters lately and I like it! Again, remove 10% of the oils in your facial scrub to include this ingredient.

Okay, this is starting to look like an ad for Brambleberry, but know that I am not compensated in any way for talking about any supplier. Anne Marie just has great taste in extracts! 

Could you combine all of these ingredients in one product? Sure, why not? But, as boringly usual, I suggest you try one of them at the suggested usage levels for a while so you can see if you really like that specific ingredient. Add them to a product you've made before so you can feel the difference!

Join me tomorrow to take a look at using essential oils in our oil based facial scrub before we move onto emulsified scrubs!


Annie said...

Hello Susan! Happy new Year! i have a question i hope you can help with. I was wondering if the oil-soluble green tea extract you introduced here is different in component with the water-soluble green tea extract? Because I would assume for the oil-soluble extract, the supply just seemly steep the extract in oil so that the lipophillic components can be extracted. But if that is the case, wouldn't the hydrophillic side not be extracted in these oil soluble extract, and the hydrophillic components are actually what we are looking for? And since the oil-soluble green tea extract has the lipophillic side, wouldnt camellia sinensis oil serve the same purpose because they are oil that are extracted from the green (or white) tea plant?

Alex said...

i literally laughed out loud when i read "But, as boringly usual" :)

It's so true tho and I live by it! It makes tweaking your products so much more systematic. Loving this scrub series!!

Loved said...

Hello Susan,

Is this the aloe extract that is used to make aloe butter? I realized aloe butter is made using coconut oil and aloe extract and no lipidthix is added to it.