Friday, January 25, 2013

A facial cleanser with clay!

I found this recipe on Voyageur Soap & Candle's site a while ago - I can't seem to find it now on their site! - and I thought I'd share my tweaks for this product. We've made it with the craft group a few times, and the ingredients I chose were to help with the oily skin and acne the craft group teenagers experience! You can substitute your favourite surfactants, hydrosols, extracts, or any other ingredient you like. I always include a little chamomile hydrosol to help with redness and inflammation and I like to include aloe vera for the soothing qualities as well as its ability to slightly thicken products.

29% water
10% chamomile hydrosol
10% aloe vera
20% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
10% disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% glycerin

0.5% liquid Germall Plus
5% clay of choice
up to 2% Crothix

Weigh all the heated water phase ingredients in a heatproof container and heat and hold at 70˚C/158˚F for 20 minutes in a double boiler. (Note: Measure your container - jug and ingredients - before heating and holding so you can compensate for the loss of water.) Remove, then let it cool to 45˚C/113˚F before you add the cool down phase. I don't suggest using a fragrance here, but you might want to include an essential oil for its properties. Tea tree oil might be nice at 1% in the cool down phase.

I've used this recipe with Dead Sea mud and with green clay as well as pink Rhassoul. (I liked the Dead Sea mud the best.) I found we didn't really need liquid Crothix with this product, although its inclusion did mean the clay suspended a little bit better if the product was sitting for a while. You definitely want to put this in a bottle you can either pump or squeeze!

The product at the top of this post is made with BC glacial clay. And to your left you'll see a version done with pink Rhassoul clay. If you make it with Dead Sea mud, it'll look a lot like the one with glacial clay, quite dark and almost brown-black.

As a bonus, if you go to the Voyageur Soap & Candle site, check out this this recipe for the detoxifying mineral mask. It's really nice, although I didn't use the wheatgrass extract or the Optiphen (I used liquid Germall Plus instead).


Mychelle said...

Ooh, I'm going to try this! I have been playing a little with clays lately and I live the "Foaming Mud" title. Maybe the men in my house would actually use this one! Thank you for this series, I'm really enjoying and have a whole list of things to try now.

Marjo said...

I made it with frenchclay which was not a good choice fot it looks like slime hahahaha. Really love the receipe so will stick with kaolin next time! I did not have DLS so used SCI i stead.. Will add more humectants 2 thank you for yet anither great post and inspiration!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Marjo! Yeah, the green isn't pleasant. I plan to use BC marine glacial clay, and it'll look the same. Having said that, the teens loved the green colour because it looked like slime!

Hi Mychelle! I hope I haven't enabled too much! :-)

Sandra Megaw said...

Hi, when you combine the cool down phase how do you find it is best to incorporate it...with a stick blender? Thank you

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sandra! No, we don't use mixers or blenders with surfactants as they get incredibly foamy and bubbly! Use a fork!

Sandra Megaw said...

I don't use surfactants but I've been wanting to make a Dead Sea mud cleanser...if I change the ingredients to oils how do you think that would go? And thank you!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan. How would you go about making this into a solid bar?
Thank you

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lisa. That would be a syndet bar. You can find recipe for a syndet bar in this post.

Hi Sandra! Sorry I missed your question. It wouldn't really work as the mud is water soluble and oils are oil soluble. I think it would separate. You could make an oil-in-water lotion and add the mud to it, but it's very hard to preserve in that kind of product.

keely munoz said...

Hi! I want to make mud masks to add to my line of products. I have only done completely natural products so other words no preservatives. I realize if I am going to sell masks they will need to have a preservative in it. I have searched on line for help with formulating a recipe but cannot get clear information. Your blogs seem invaluable, but you have SO much information I'm not sure where to start. I realize you must be incredibly busy, but if you have time can you tell me which blog post of yours to type in so I can get started? I feel truly confused. Sorry to take up your time with this kind of question. Thanks for any direction you can give.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Keely! I haven't made mud masks because those with liquids are generally too hard to preserve. You cannot make a mud mask with any water soluble ingredients in it - water, aloe vera, hydrosols, glycerin, etc. - without a really strong preservative, like a paraben, used at maximum usage rate, and even then, I wouldn't recommend it. If you choose to make something like this with a very strong, broad spectrum preservative, you'll need to watch it for at least six months and get challenge testing before you think about selling it. There are so many things that can go wrong with a mud mask that even really experienced formulators won't touch them.

I have one cleanser on the blog with clay in it, but it's not a mask. And it requires serious preservation.

stephfunny said...

Does this translate well into a shampoo? If I wanted to formulate a clay cleanser for hair could I potentially just swap in or out certain ingredients and still add the clay in the final phase?

stephfunny said...

Can this also be a guideline of sorts to formulating a clay-based shampoo? If I wanted to formulate a clay cleanser for hair could I potentially just swap in or out certain ingredients and still add the clay in the final phase?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi stephfunny! Sure, you can use this as a shampoo, if you wish. You don't need to do much to make it into a shampoo. Actually, looking at it, you can just use it as is!

Dina Aruni Saffanah said...

hai susan i really love your blog it is very inspiring. i want to ask you, i made a cleanser like dark angel from lush with a little bit modification. It is contain rhassoul clay in big number and no water only some oil. When i did microbial test (bacteria, yeast and mold) i found that the result of total microbial count is above the standar (>2000 cfu/ml). So is it because of the clay? i have add preservative but the bacteria yeast and mold are still in there.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Dina! Clay is super hard to preserve, so it's possible that's the problem. It sounds like you might need a stronger preservative or more of a stronger, broad spectrum preservative, like Phenonip or Germaben II.

Pier said...

Hi, your posts are very instructing even if my English is not perfect.

I read all your posts about surfactants and still confuse when its time to substitute one.
I have Amphosol CG, Boiterie AS-40, BSB PEG-80, SLSa (Lathanol) powder, and Steol CS-230. My question is
which one could I use to replace the 10% cocamidopropyl betaine in you recipe Foaming Mud cleanser.
I read in one of your post that BSB could be a good substitute but still not very sure about it.
Thanks to let me know if I am right or not.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Pier! I don't recommend substituting for the cocamidopropyl betaine as it's a lovely secondary surfactant that adds mildness to your products. Having said this, you already own it. Look at the INCI name for Amphosol CG and you'll see it's cocamidopropyl betaine!