Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Substitutions: Only six days to go until Christmas!
Let's say you want to create a lovely lotion bar - 33% butter, 33% oil, 33% beeswax, and 1% fragrance - but you are missing one of those components. What can you do?
Here's an example of a wax substitution...
17% candellia wax
1% fragrance oil
If you only have a bit of wax left - say 10% to 20% of what you need, make yourself a balm! What can you do if you're completely out of wax? Make a lovely whipped butter, body oil, or an oil based scrub!
oil comparison chart to see what you could use instead! (Or visit the emollients section of the blog for detailed posts on each oil!)
My favourite oil has to be rice bran oil. It has a lovely balance of oleic and linoleic acid, high levels of phytosterols, and lots of Vitamin E. It is light to medium weight, and it doesn't have much of a smell. It is a greasier feeling oil. If I don't have any, what could I substitute instead? Quickly - to the chart! Sesame oil seems like a great choice, as does soybean oil, although that one is slightly greasier feeling than sesame or rice bran.
As an aside, here's the reality of using oils - we can pretty much substitute any oil for any other oil in a recipe and make a great product. There might be a difference in skin feel, viscosity, and properties of the product, but you will still make a great product. (The only exception to this would be coconut oil because it is closer to a butter than an oil...)
What this means is that you can make that awesome sounding product without having to spend a fortune on oils! Seriously! Anyone interested in seeing a detailed post about this? Let me know!
kokum or sal for cocoa butter and get a similar stiffness and skin feel than to substitute shea for cocoa butter! If you do need to substitute shea for any other butter, be aware that your product will probably be a little thinner and greasier feeling than normal. I suggest making a tester lotion bar without fragrance that you can pop in the freezer for a few minute to test the stiffness. I find that I generally use 33% wax with shea butter, but can go as low as 25% with mango butter, so there is a difference!
Are you missing an ingredient? Post it here and we'll see what we can suggest! The amazing readers of this blog will have loads of ideas!
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