epic lotion fail the other day using Ritamulse SCG incorrectly, and it raised some questions. Let's take a look at those this morning...
Jesse wrote: Sorry this could sound silly, but does that means the failed lotion can not be used?
Hi Jesse! No silly questions, although they can be asked silly-ily if you put on a funny accent and speak nasally! This does mean you can't use the lotion. At the very least, it looks really awful and feels really horrible on your skin. There is no way to save a lotion that ends up like this. When you get these clumps, it's only the start of your problems. It will keep on clumping and the oil will keep rising to the surface. The only thing you can do with a lotion like this is to put it in a plastic bag and throw it out!
When lotions go wrong!
Emulsifiers: What's a complete or all-in-one emulsifier?
Emulsifiers: Check what you've got!
Question: Can you reheat a batch of failed lotion?
Yes, this has a major effect. It is critical that all the ingredients in a lotion be at the same temperature when we mix them together after heating and holding. We don't have to compensate for the water that evaporates during the heat and hold phase, but failing to do so will cause us to have a way smaller water phase than we expected. This isn't a bad thing, but if you love the lotion, you won't be able to figure out how much water to add next time. So we compensate by adding water to the water phase at the end of the heating and holding phase. And we do it by adding warm water to the mix! (Click here for that post!) 10 ounces is still 6.25% of your water phase, and that's not a small number!
And finally...Kate noted: I've been having issues with Ritamulse SCG splitting at the end as well. I emailed the manufacturer and they mentioned that Ritamulse SCG is not compatible with cationics but they also mentioned that they use 0.5% Xanthan or Guar gum in the water phase to improve stability of their lotions. I also asked about the preservative I was using- Optiphen Plus- and they said that the capryl glycol in the Optiphen Plus wreaks havoc on their lotions.
Thanks for the information, Kate! We really appreciate knowing what the manufacturer has to say about things like this. Have you tried the xanthan or guar gum yet? What did you think?
I hate the idea of having to use some sort of gum to stabilize the lotion. I think this is why I keep going back to Polawax - it just seems to work, even when I make the odd mistake! I know the Herbarie suggests using another ingredient with it - I have some here, but I haven't added it to anything in the last 18 months of playing with this emulsifer - and I think Lotioncrafter might suggest something as well.
As an aside, yes, I wish I hadn't had this problem as I quite desperately need hand protectant as I'm getting horrible cracks and sores on my fingers from crafting too much, but I've learned a lot from it. And that's the point of making products and learning about ingredients by actually getting into the workshop and being hands on! You have to try and fail to learn what not to do next time. I always say I love my successes, but I learn from my failures. In this case, it was an epic one!
Newbie Tuesday: Making your first lotion!