Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Making an eye cream: Tweaking the oils

You can tweak this eye cream recipe with any oils you like. I chose macadamia nut and arnica oils because they offered some great qualities, but you might have other preferences. Let's take a look at some of the oils we might consider using in this recipe! 

Visit part one of this post to see why I chose the oils I did. Visit part two for information on the water phase, and part three for information on the cool down phase and full recipe. Visit this post to have fun with tweaking the emulsifiers! 

Let's take a look at a few exotic oils that might offer some awesome qualities to this product. We have 18% oils in this product - I used 11% macadamia nut oil, 5% arnica oil, and 3% behenyl alcohol - and you can mix and match what you like within this amount. Every oil change you make will change the skin feel of the product, so keep in mind what you want from this product when you when you choose your oils! If you want a thinner product, leave out the behenyl alcohol and add 3% oil in its place. 

An aside before we start...There isn't a lot of value in using 1% of this and 2% of that and 1% of another oil. For the most part, it's better to use 5% of an oil than 1% of five different oils. I know it's hard to choose exactly the one you want some times, but you aren't getting the value of any of them when you use small amounts. I generally don't like to go down below 5% of an oil, unless it's something like arnica that has a very specific usage. I have some recipes that call for less, but I probably had a good reason for doing that! 

You can see all the writes up about oils, butters, exotic oils, and esters in the emollients section of the blog

Consider what each oil brings to the party. Is it a dry or greasy feeling oil? Is it a light, medium, or heavy oil? Is it expensive? Does it have a suggested usage rate? What fatty acids, polyphenols, and phytosterols does this oil have and how will those benefit my skin? What is the shelf life of the oil?

I wouldn't consider using an oil with anything lower than a 6 month shelf life. I've been using this product for almost two months, and I haven't used up even half of the 30 ml (one tablespoon) container yet! If you make a 100 gram batch, you'll end up with about 75 ml or 5 tablespoons! If you must use an oil with a short shelf life, make sure you use an anti-oxidant like Vitamin E (0.5% in the cool down phase). 

As another aside...If you leave out the behenyl alcohol, you'll end up with a thinner product. So you can use that 3% for an oil as well! 

An oil I would consider for this product would be evening primrose oil. It's a drier feeling oil with a six month shelf life. It has great anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. I would use it at 10% minimum in this product. 

I'd also consider borage oil for the same reasons. It is dry feeling, has at least a 6 month shelf life, and it has a ton of great polyphenols that offer anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Sea buckthorn oil might be a good choice as it offers anti-inflammatory properties, but check what you have as it might be just a little too orange for your skin type. 

If you really want to use a greasier oil, like soy bean oil, consider adding up to 5% IPM or IPP, two esters that will make your products feel less greasy. Or use Incroquat BTMS-50 to make the product feel drier. 

8% Ritamulse SCG
3% fatty alcohol
16% oils of choice.

I hope you've enjoyed this look at making an eye cream. Remember, you can tweak this to your heart's content - changing the oils, changing the cosmeceuticals, changing the emulsifiers, changing pretty much anything you wish - to create the perfect eye cream for your skin type, your skin's needs, your climate, and your budget. 

Join me tomorrow for something else...not sure just yet. What should we do next? 


Robert said...

I have been experimenting with Abyssinian Oil because of its very high stability and light nature. It should give a very nice feel to an eye product.

Also, great work on the eye cream. You have been very ambitious experimenting with various emulsifiers. Of the ones you tried, which one did you like the best?

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

I am in love with lotioncrafter's sepiplus - it can handle some electrolytes as well, so I love it.

I usually make one cream for the entire face area - just drop in the goodies, all my skin will love it!

I love olive oil unsaponifiables, cucumber seed oil, cranberry seed oil, meadowfoam and pomegranate seed oil. I sometimes use plain pomegranate, I love it!!

great job, Susan :)