Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Newbie Tuesday: A few tweaks to consider...
Let's say you have normal thickness, dry, slightly curly hair that you dry with a hair dryer. We want to increase moisturization, increase film forming, and increase heat protection. Dry hair likes oils and butters, and my first suggestion is always coconut oil as it has an affinity for hair. And dry hair likes moisturization, so we'll want to include some humectants - panthenol is a good choice for all hair types, glycerin is inexpensive and doesn't wash out - and we'll want to include some film formers. I'd go with silk protein as it seems to be good for dry hair, and I'll include dimethicone to help seal the moisture in the hair strand.
Let's say you have fine, dry, slightly curly hair that you dry with a hair dryer. They key here is to get some moisturization without weighing down your hair. The first thing to do is reduce the amount of BTMS-50. I'd go to 2% to 3% at the most (replace the missing amount with more water). If you want to add some oils, consider some very light esters or light oils, like fractionated coconut oil. You might want to consider using dimethicone as a film former and heat protector, but you'll want to use a thinner version, say 350 cs instead of 1000 cs.
Let's say you have normal thickness, oily, slightly curly to frizzy hair that you allow to air dry. They key here is to condition your hair and moisturize without the use of iols. Leave out the oils, butters, and fatty alcohols as they'll only speed up the oiliness of your hair. (And drying your hair with a dryer will make it go oilier faster. I know, not something you expect, eh?) You'll want to leave out the humectants as frizzy hair doesn't like them at all. If you really want an oil, consider using an ester like ethylhexyl palmitate, although it will still increase the speed at which your hair gets oily.
Let's say you have hair that's hard to brush. You'll want to add a detangling ingredient like cetrimonium chloride at up to 2%. Or hair that is very staticky. You might consider using 2% Incroquat CR to increase the softness of your hair.
To sum this all up - Figure out your hair type, then take a look at which ingredients might work for it. Then figure out what conflicts with another feature of your hair. If you have fine and dry hair, consider adding moisturization with very light oils instead of heavy ones. If you have oily hair but want moisturization, consider using film formers like hydrolyzed proteins instead of oils. Consider the goal of your product - I want a conditioner to moisturize, condition, and protect against heat damage - and this will bring you to which ingredients to use.
I'll be posting some recipes next week, but I really encourage you to do some thinking based upon your experiences making your conditioner. Post them here and I'm happy to help out in the mean time.
WHAT IF I WANT A THINNER CONDITIONER?
7% BTMS-50 will create a fairly thick product. You can reduce the amount of BTMS-50 to as low as 3% and increase the water amount by 4% to compensate. If you choose to use cetrimonium chloride at 2% as a detangler, you'll be amazed at how thin the product gets just by adding that tiny amount!
HOW MUCH CONDITIONER TO USE?
Here's an aside for you...the odds are pretty good you don't need as much conditioner as you think you do. When I used commercial products, I laughed at the idea of using a dime sized amount of conditioner for my coarse, waist length hair. Now, I use about a quarter sized amount of conditioner (5p piece for those of you in the UK).
The great conditioner experiment
The great conditioner experiment - results
The great conditioner experiment - modifying the recipes
How much conditioner to use and how long to leave it on our hair?
WHAT IF YOU HAVE BTMS-25 INSTEAD OF BTMS-50
Check out this post - How to use BTMS-25 in place of BTMS-50.
I think that's more than enough for today! I'm suffering from information overload! Join me tomorrow as we take a look at some of the specific questions posed from last week's Newbie Tuesday!