Sunday, September 2, 2012

Experiments with Rita BTMS-225: Shaving lotion

I really love cationic quaternary compounds as the base for my shaving lotions because they offer a lovely moisturized and conditioned feeling after rinsing. I make a solid shaving bar, which is awesome in my humble opinion, but I do like a liquid from time to time. I thought Rita BTMS-225 would make a great shaving lotion ingredient because it will emulsify the water and oils, offer moisturizing thanks to the cetearyl alcohol, and conditioning thanks to the behentrimonium methosulfate.

SHAVING LOTION (originally from this post)
3% Rita BTMS-225
2% cetyl alcohol
5% oils of choice (I like 2.7% shea, 2.3% jojoba oil)

5% aloe vera (increase to 10% if you like)
78.5% water
1% humectant of choice
2% phytokeratin or other hydrolyzed protein

1% silk protein

2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%, 1% for Germaben II)
1% fragrance or essential oil

Weigh the heated oil phase into a Pyrex jug. Weigh the water and aloe vera into another container. Put both containers into a double boiler, melt, and hold until the temperature reaches 70˚C. Remove from the heat and blend the two containers together, mixing well. Leave for a bit, then mix again. When the temperature reaches 45˚C, add panthenol, preservative, and fragrance oil (up to 1%). Bottle when the mixture reaches room temperature. You can use a pump, disc top, or turret cap bottle. (Click here for more information on heating and holding!) 

Feel free to play with the ingredients of this product. The most important one is the Rita BTMS-225 at 3% - go higher and you end up with a thick product, go lower and you don't get the right amount of emulsification - but you can remove the aloe vera, add some hydrosols, increase the humectant, remove the silk protein, and so on. Using behenyl alcohol instead of cetyl alcohol will make the product slightly more powdery, and I don't recommend using cetearyl alcohol in this product as you already have a bunch in the Rita BTMS-225. Please don't use stearic acid in place of the fatty alcohols - it will make for a very draggy product, which is the opposite of what we want in a shaving product. 

Consider modifying this for various skin types. If you have someone with very dry skin, add some oils with lots of linoleic acid - sunflower, soy bean, rice bran, or sesame seed oil (click here for the carrier oil comparison chart or visit the emollients section) - and add more humectant - say 2% sodium lactate, for instance - and add a barrier ingredient like allantoin at 0.5% in the heated water phase or 2% dimethicone in the cool down phase. 

If you have someone with very oily skin, consider substituting the oils for esters - C12-15 alkyl benzoate is very nice, as is cetearyl ethylhexanoate - or adding more of the fatty alcohol to behave as an emollient. (Making these changes will make the product "oil free" in nature. That isn't to say that you won't experience break outs, but you won't be using oils to moisturize.) 

And feel free to add some extracts, if you want. Just remember that this product will remain on the skin like a lotion, so colour could be an issue. I wouldn't use powdered green tea extract in this lotion, but I would use liquid green tea extract as it is generally clear! (Brambleberry's green tea extract is oil based, so it's a great substitute for one of the oils in the recipe, but most are water based. Check what you have before using it!) 

And be careful with fragrances. If someone might use this on his face, you don't want strong fragrances. 1% is more than enough to leave behind an after shave level of fragrance! 

A final note: Remember that I am not paid by any supplier to write about their products, so when I mention a company, it's because I like the products! 


Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

Hi, Susan!

Isn't the phytokeratin water soluble? I see it in the oil phase, maybe I am wrong?

I have made (and love it!) a shaving lotion & hair conditioner , 2 in 1, with the same BTMS-25, and I love it. I have used dimethicone and cyclomethicone in the oil phase, and I was so wondering whether I should use cetrimonium chloride at 2%... will it be good for the skin, if I am using this product also as a shaving cream, not only a conditioner? :)

Thanks for sharing your experience!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sanziene! You are completely right, so I've updated the recipe with the proteins in the heated water phase.

I don't bother with cetrimonium chloride in skin care products because it really doesn't add conditioning or other benefits for my skin, but if you want to make the product a two-in-1 shaving lotion and conditioner bar, then use the cetrimonium chloride and you can have the detangling when you use it in your hair!

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

Hi Susan, thanks for the suggestion :-) I love cetrimonium chloride, and if it won't hurt my skin, then I go with the 2% :-)

Queen Eye Cee said...

Greetings Susan,

I'd like to make a herb infused oil for "Hot Oil treatment" and would like to incorporate Phytokeratin, can I do so without having to add a preservative, because I'm going to use some pretty expensive oils & herbs and would hate for it to form mold???

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Queen Eye Cee. You can't incorporate phytokeratin into an oil based product without using an emulsifier as it's water based and your hot oil product is oil based.

BTW: I think it's great that you don't want mould and want to use preservatives!

Brandi Yates said...

Ive tried this and I love it.

Brandi Yates said...

So far Ive made this with silk amino acids and frac coconut oil and silk amino acids and rice bran oil.

There was a little "skip" to it when shaving. Im going to try with Avocado oil next to see if I need a greasier oil.

pnewelljr said...

Hey, I was wondering if you would consider putting together a basic outline for shaving cream (serum). I will leave out the particular product I am trying to get close to, but as far as I can tell, what they are making is pretty close to face wash. They do use Sorbitol, Cocamine Oxide (can't find it on your blog) and Laureth-8. All of which I have never used.

Any advice on putting together a serum for shaving (with surfactants)? Also, if you have the time, could you take a look at Cocamine Oxide and Laureth-8? I am having trouble finding info on them, and I am wondering what their purpose may be so I can replace them or take the time to try and track them down.

Thanks so much for any advice!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi pnewelljr. I looked up cocamide oxide, and found this listing. I think it's probably pretty close to using myristamine oxide, which I have from the Personal Formulator. This is what I know about myristamine oxide: Myristamine Oxide is a cleansing agent, emulsifier, hair conditioner, emollient, foam stabilizer, viscosity booster, and foam booster. Use at 5 to 20%.

Laureth-8 is an emulsifier and surfactant. I've never used it and I don't know where to find it. I haven't found it on its own, but I've seen it in surfactant mixes, so I wonder if this is an ingredient that is only used with something else?

pnewelljr said...

Thanks so much for your reply. The ingredient list is:

Water (Aqua), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamine Oxide, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Cocamide DEA, Sorbitol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Betaine, Laureth-8, Fusanus Spicatus Wood Oil, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Oil, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Farnesol, Linalool, d-Limonene, Eugenol

Considering how low in the list Laureth-8 is, I am hoping I can leave it out and still get a similar product. I know you don't really re-create products anymore, but I am having trouble finding a recipe for a product anything like this one, so that is the only reason I'n asking.

I have never worked with Myristamine Oxide before, so I will definitely have to read up on it! Thanks so much

pnewelljr said...

My main reason for asking was because I had never seen the Cocamine Oxide before in any of their other products, or anywhere else at all! So I wondered if maybe it was something specific for shaving cream for some reason, probably not haha

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi pnewelljr. This is a surfactant mix with some moisturizing and emulsifying ingredients thrown into the mix. I think the cocamide oxide could be replaced by another emollient ingredient - like myristamine oxide - and the laureth-8 with another solubilizer, although you might not need one at all if you keep those essential oils low. So my suggestion is to make something with low surfactants - maybe a total of 10% to 15% - and some moisturizers. Get a water soluble oil or another moisturizing ingredient and use that instead of the myristamine oxide. Give it a try. Let me know how it goes!

pnewelljr said...

I think I'm gonna try later this month, and I'll definitely let you know how it goes!

The weird thing about the Laureth-8, is that this product already includes quite a bit of Polysorbate-20, which should be more than enough for the essential oils. I think I will try leaving it out and hope for the best!

As soon as I get my hands on some Myristamine Oxide I am going to try this out and let you know how it goes! I'm going to start with 10% SLES and 5% Myristamine Oxide and see how it goes from there! Thanks again for all your help!