Monday, September 17, 2012

Experiments in the workshop: Behenyl alcohol in my Ritamulse SCG sugar scrub!

I'm having a love affair with Ritamulse SCG in my sugar scrubs, and thought I should try making it with a different fatty alcohol - behenyl alcohol. I've made sugar scrubs with Ritamulse SCG and sugar scrubs with behenyl alcohol, but never both! So let's see what this might feel like!


10% Ritamulse SCG
10% behenyl alcohol
20% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
56% oil (I used rice bran oil and soy bean oil)
1% Phenonip

1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
about 146 grams sugar for each 100 gram batch

*Note: We're using 2% fragrance oil because we're actually making 200 grams of product by adding the sugar, so the increased fragrance amount will actually make the product smell nice. If you're using essential oils, check your safe usage levels before adding to the scrub.*

Weigh all ingredients except the Vitamin E and fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45˚C. Add the fragrance oil and Vitamin E, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments.

Whisk until it looks like chocolate pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub and go as high as 200 grams of sugar. In this recipe, I used 146 grams of sugar per 100 grams of oils and butters, and I find that a nice level of scrubbiness. If you're using another exfoliant, I'm afraid you'll have to work out those weights on your own, but let us know how it works out!

If you're curious to see how I got to this recipe, check out the post on making a black cocoa sugar scrub, then how to modify it with behenyl alcohol, then how to modify it with Ritamulse SCG.

I tried this with regular cocoa butter and it's still awesome!

I LOVE THIS RECIPE!!! (Sorry for shouting, but I think it's worthy of it!)  I think it's the nicest one I've made so far! It has quite a dry feeling to it that lasts after you've rinsed it off. I have a moisturized feeling without the greasiness I had when it was on my skin. I can't believe how awesome this sugar scrub feels!

One down side, though. If you have dry skin, you might not like the drier feeling. My sugar scrub with cetyl alcohol left behind a little more waxiness that would last well into the next day. This one doesn't feel as tenacious as that version.

If you want this to be a prettier jar, package before it cools. I tried it after cooling this time, and it wasn't as pretty as it could have been.

Related posts:
How do you know how and what to substitute (emulsifiers in scrubs)?
Experiments in the workshop: Ritamulse SCG in a sugar scrub


Lise M Andersen said...

Hi Susan - I'm totally curious as to the reasoning behind an emulsified scrub. It seems like a huge amount of work . My scrubs are oil and salt (or sugar) and scent. It's super quick to make and works beautifully. Look forward to your input.

Kim said...

I just made this scrub again and I have to say I'm in love with this! I don't have black cocoa butter, so I added a little cocoa powder and it looks just like chocolate. Scented with Spellbound Woods, I swear it's edible!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lise! I use emulsified scrubs because they rinse off much cleaner than an oil based scrub, turning into lotion when I add water to my skin. Oil based scrubs don't rinse off as cleanly and leave more oil behind. I have a manicure scrub I make that is all oils, but for the most part, I really want something emulsified to leave a lotiony layer on my skin, not an oily layer.

Hi Kim! I love Spellbound Woods! It sounds lovely!

Tara said...

I love the emulsified scrubs now too, but after trying with the Ritamulse, I still prefer the BTMS one. I like to use it while shaving my legs: the sugar will exfoliate, while the BTMS conditions my skin and makes my legs nice and smooth. I found my Ritamulse scrub didn't stay fluffy for very long :-(

Lise M Andersen said...

HI Susan,
Thanks! Ok I see, but have you ever tried using a water-soluble oil in your scrubs? I have one with polysorbate 85 that rinses out beautifully and lotiony.

MELANIE said...

AND behenyl alcohol

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Melanie. Visit the FAQ for a list if suppliers in your country!

Kim said...

Could I substitute the 10% fatty alcohol with 10% hard butter? I don't have any fatty alcohols or stearic acid? How would I sub the 10% fatty alcohol? Will it still whip up as nicely? I have shea butter, cocoa butter, e-wax, and beeswax.