this post on Rita BTMS-225, Julie asks: Can you use regular e wax in a conditioner? I'd love to try one just to try it, but I don't want to have to buy a different emulsifier I probably wouldn't use much.
The short answer is no, you can't use regular e-wax in a conditioner. And here's why...
Conditioners contain cationic or positively charged ingredients like cetrimonium bromide, Incroquat BTMS-50, Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25, Incroquat CR, cetrimonium chloride, and cationic polymers. They adsorb to our hair strand, which is what conditioning means.
Adsorption means the molecules accumulate on the surface of your hair. It's different from absorption in that it doesn't penetrate, it just sits on top of the hair fibre. This is called substantivity. Substantivity is defined as "an adsorption phenomenon by which materials that have opposing charges or like composition are more readily adsorbed onto or attracted to its surface and, once there, resistant to subsequent rinse-off." In other words, a material that is positively charged - like our cationic ingredients - will be attracted to the surface of our hair, which is negatively charged.Click here for more information on substantivity and adsorption!
E-wax, Polawax, and other HLB based emulsifiers are non-ionic, meaning they have no charge. This means they won't adsorb to our hair strand. Something like Ritamulse SCG has an anionic or negative charge, which means it won't adsorb to your hair strand. (It's advised not to use Ritamulse SCG with cationic or positively charged ingredients...) None of these things can behave as a conditioning agent for your hair. They might make it feel more moisturized, but you aren't getting true conditioning from them.
For a while there, people wanted to make hair lotions, which were exactly like body or hand lotions intended for your hair. Those products were made with non-ionic emulsifiers, so they were moisturizers, not conditioners. There's really no point to these products - get a conditioning agent in there and enjoy the conditioning it offers!
Go buy some BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 or Rita BTMS-225 or something similar and make a conditioner. I promise that you will never go back to store bought products again! In the end, it's a lot cheaper! I buy a pound of Incroquat BTMS-50 every year for about $30 and make all the conditioners used by my mom, my husband, my best friend, and me and believe me when I say that's a bargain and a half!