Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Summer products: Cooling spray

I love my cooling spray and think it essential for these warmer months. I always include a titch of peppermint essential oil as it's a thermoreceptor agonist that makes our skin feel a bit colder, which is a good thing in the hot summer weather.

30% witch hazel hydrosol
25% lavender hydrosol (or another hydrosol of your choice)
20% water
10% aloe vera liquid
5% combination of humectants
3% honeyquat
2% cromoist (or another hydrolyzed protein like soy or wheat...I just like oat protein!)

2% panthenol
0.5% extract (I use chamomile)
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)
1% peppermint essential oil
1% polysorbate 20

For this spray, I like to use 2% sodium lactate and 3% sodium PCA as my humectants. You could use glycerin or propanediol or any other humectant you like. I've chosen mine as they don't feel sticky on my skin. When solubilizing the peppermint essential oil, I've found that a 1:1 ratio of polysorbate 20 to peppermint works well. You could choose another solubilizer - caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Cromollient SCE, Caprol Micro Express, and so on - for this spray. I'd choose something that doesn't feel sticky. (The nice thing about Caprol Micro Express is that it offers moisturizing as well as solubilizing.)

I've included the various hydrosols and witch hazel to offer more cooling - in the case of peppermint hydrosol and witch hazel - and to offer moisturizing and soothing of annoyed summer skin. And feel free to replace the witch hazel and/or lavender hydrosol with water or other hydrosols. I'm using 10% peppermint hydrosol, 10% chamomile hydrosol, and 10% lavender hydrosol with 30% witch hazel, 10% aloe vera, and 15% distilled water. Or feel free to leave out all the hydrosols and stuff and just use distilled water.

I've added the honeyquat to offer conditioning to my skin, but again, it isn't essential in the recipe for cooling. Feel free to replace the honeyquat with another cationic polymer - like polyquat 7 - or leave it out and add 5% to the water amount. I like Cromoist - hydrolyzed oat protein - but you could use any other hydrolyzed protein you wish. I've included the protein to offer film forming and moisturizing in this product.

You could make this product with 1% peppermint essential oil, 1% solubilizer, 0.5% to 2% preservative, and up to 100% water and have a perfectly good cooling spray. I've added the other ingredients to offer my skin a bit of moisturizing, some soothing from possible over sun exposure, and film forming to prevent some transepidermal water loss.

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating summer products!

1 comment:

Lise M Andersen said...

I am so lazy with my cooling summer sprays that I use straight up hydrosol that I have in a small spray bottle - sans preservative because i go through the stuff like it was juice. I just fill a small pocket-sized bottle (30ml) every morning. My fave this season (and almost every season): rose