Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Emulsifiers: Ritamulse SCG in a sugar scrub (actual post)

I love sugar scrubs in any season, but I especially need my scrubs during these summer months when I rarely wear anything other than shorts and I spent a lot of time swimming at the lake or just generally wandering around outside. I always use the same recipe because I like the consistency - see below - but I play with the oils. In this recipe, I thought it would be fun to use all cocoa butter for our butters amount and add shea oil and rice bran oil as my oils. I thought the shea oil could bring the lovely moisturizing-ness of shea butter without using the butter itself. (Normally I like to use 10% cocoa butter and 10% another butter, but this time it was all about the cocoa butter to behave as a nice occlusive for the summer months!) 

10% Ritamulse SCG
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
20% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
56% oil - I used shea oil and rice bran oil
1% Phenonip

1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
about 146 grams sugar for each 100 gram batch 

*Note: We're using 2% fragrance oil because we're actually making 200 grams of product by adding the sugar, so the increased fragrance amount will actually make the product smell nice. If you're using essential oils, check your safe usage levels before adding to the scrub.*

Weigh all ingredients except the Vitamin E and fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45˚C. Add the fragrance oil and Vitamin E, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub and go as high as 200 grams of sugar. In this recipe, I used 146 grams of sugar per 100 grams of oils and butters, and I find that a nice level of scrubbiness. If you're using another exfoliant, I'm afraid you'll have to work out those weights on your own, but let us know how it works out! 

Question: Do we need to use preservatives with sugar scrubs? You bet we do! Click here for a post on sugar scrubs and water activity! Which one to use? Click here to see all the posts on preservatives or click here for the preservative comparison chart. You want to use one that is suitable for anhydrous or oil based products - generally a paraben based preservative, which includes Phenonip and the Liquipar line. Optiphen might be good for anhydrous products - click here for that post - but I personally wouldn't trust it without some testing.

What do I think of this sugar scrub with Ritamulse SCG? OMG! WTF? LOL! I'm about to squee like a fourteen year old girl meeting One Direction! (Or more like an avid viewer of QI meeting Stephen Fry! Wow, I would embarrass myself with all the squeeing!) 

Every time we make this, I mention to my best friend that I wish the sugar scrub would remain light and whippy rather than hardening by the next morning. This one stayed light and whippy! It's fluffy and moisturizing and feels really awesome! It felt lovely when I used it and it rinsed off well. I can still feel it on my skin the next morning, and I felt well moisturized all yesterday. In short, this is a great recipe made amazing by one small switch! (Which is tomorrow's topic!) 

I really recommend using cocoa butter in this recipe as I worry that using a less stiff butter might lead to deflation. I plan to try this with golden shea butter this weekend - a stiffer feeling shea - and ultra refined - definitely a melty type of shea - to see if those changes will make a big difference. I'm going to have quite a few jars of sugar scrub around the house after this weekend! 

As an aside, we fragranced one half with Sweet Meyer Lemon fragrance oil from Brambleberry and the other with Chocolate Raspberry Drizzle from Creations from Eden (which she doesn't carry any more. Sad face...) Wow, it smelled so great, I think Blondie wanted to eat my arm! (Which shows you that there might not be a virus or condition that makes humans want to eat each other, but there might be something that makes my dog want to have at least a few licks!) Oh, and we fragranced a tiny bit with Pina Colada. There's a tropical party in my shower! Awesome! 

How do I think Ritamulse SCG might do in a solid sugar scrub bar like this one? I definitely wouldn't make the version with black cocoa butter because I fear it might be a little softer than we want! I think this version with mango butter will be just fine...why don't we make one this weekend with both and see what happens?!? (Also check out this recipe, formulating for your skin type: Anhydrous scrub bars for all skin types.) 

Related posts: 


Tara said...

So utterly excited to make some of this! So how long have you had the scrubs that you know they remain fluffy?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tara! I made them on Sunday. They're still fluffy today. I'm thinking that if I took the stearic out and just used behenyl alcohol, I think it would go into a tottle bottle with a big opening. I'm going to try that this weekend. (It stayed fluffy even in the fridge!)

p said...

Wow, this scrub sounds amazing!! I might have to buy some Ritamulse to try this...

Nancy Liedel said...

My husband is now in love with you, in a non-romantic way. Stephen Fry. He just gave me a long rundown of everything the man has ever been in. LOL!

Lavarie - der Seifenblog said...

Dear Susan, since your reports about Ritamulse (Naturemulse, Biobase,...) I'm searching frantically for a supplier in Europe. Unfortunately NO one seems to sell this emulsifying compound to final "consumers" - the smallest order quantity I have been offered were 25kg :-O. LOL.
Do you have ANY idea, where I can find this Emulsifier in Europe? Ordering in USA or Kanada would mean shipping charges over 30$, which is really a tiny little bit too much just to try a new ingredient...
What you wrote about it's effects really irks me to try it out myself.
Best whishes, Judith

Lavarie - der Seifenblog said...

No, it doesn't irk, it itches. Sorry for this misunderstandable mistake :-)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lavarie. Have you taken a look at the suppliers' list for Europe in the FAQ or checked out Eucalypta's list of European suppliers? I'm in Canada, so I'm relying upon my wonderful readers to give me ideas about European suppliers!

Lavarie - der Seifenblog said...

Hallo Susan, thank you for your reply! I hoped you might have something like an insider's tipp about one of your suppliers exporting to Europe or sort of... *sigh*
I searched _all_ shops and suppliers I could find, but this emulsifier-blend seems not to be sold in small amounts in Europe.

But nevermind :-) I found one that sells Sodium stearyl lactylate and I will try to find the mixing ratio of the three components that feels right on basis auf the MSDS of Ritamulse (I downloaded that one *hurray*).

After what you wrote about Ritamulse I just can't NOT try it, because loosing texture is just what annoys me with my scrubs.

Best whishes,

Ruth said...

Swift..I made this sugar scrub yesterday.
the only thing I used different, from your recipe, I used soybean oil, in place of the shea oil, as I didn't have any.
I also colored mine with Lemon Pop, and put in 1/4 teasp. of Pink Jojoba Beads..It looks like SunShine in a Jar..
I am loving it..I have some right by my kitchen sink, I find myself going and washing my hands just to use it..
I would love to be able to put it into a squeeze tube. With no worries of nasties getting in..
If you have any idea where a person might get squeeze tubes with a larger opening..please post..
Thanks again..for all your generously..

Ruth said...

I posted Aug 22..about making this sugar scrub..
Mine has separated some..Do you think it could be from substituting with the soybean oil?
Or could maybe, I didn't whip long enough..
I still love it...
And I don't think I have ever bought from a store, a sugar scrub that didn't have oil floating on the top..
So I don't feel to bad..

Kim said...

I have found this chocolate raspberry drizzle fragrance at Nature's Garden (not sure if that's the same thing as the one you used, but maybe it is) This look amazingly decadent by the way! I want to eat it so badly! Have you ever tried making this with babassu oil? I can only imagine it would be even better!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kim! I have a similar fragrance from Creations from Eden, but I think they're out, so I'm happy to have another place to get it! Babassu oil makes everything better! It's kind of an addiction of mine, that darned oil! Yes, I've made a scrub with it. It's so decadent!!!

Caleb said...

Hi Susan.
Hope you're feeling better soon. Thank you for all the work you've done on this blog and for all of your responses to me and to others. The information here is invaluable. I've read most of your posts on scrubs, exfoliants, and preservatives.
If I add Leucidal and Coconut Amticide to an anhydrous emulsified scrub will that work? Both of the preservatives are water soluble and are broad spectrum when used together.
In my mind they would not preserve the oil, but once water is introduced to the product in the shower, it would preserve. Am I on the right track? Since the oil "doesn't need to be preserved" the only thing I'm worried about is the water.
I will also add Elderberry Extract, vitamin e, salt, and rosemary essential oils to help preserve the oils in the meantime. I know those don't create a broad spectrum preservation system, which is why I want to add the Leucidal and Coconut Amticide.
I've read your posts on preserving anhydrous scrubs and the different perspectives but wasn't able to find what I was looking for.

It really confuses me how a company as big as Herbivore Botanicals can make an emulsified anhydrous scrub without any preservatives.
Full list of ingredients: Sucrose (Sugar), Cocos Nucifera (Organic Virgin Coconut) Oil, Capric Triglycerides, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Rosa damascena (Moroccan Rose) Absolute, Rose Clay

Also do you have any experience adding clays to emulsified anhydrous scrubs? To my understanding you can use clays in soap and dissolve them in the oil, so it should work.

Thank you for any information you can share, whenever you're able to.

All the best,