Monday, June 4, 2012

Emulsifiers: Hand lotions with Ritamulse SCG

I'm going to leave you to figure out some things we can include in our all natural lotion using Ritamulse SCG for a few more days...In the meantime, could we make a nice hand lotion with Ritamulse SCG? Of course! Let's take a look at our basic lotion recipe for using this emulsifier and make some serious tweaks!

70% water

8% Ritamulse SCG
20% oils, butters, and so on

0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
1% fragrance or essential oil

We could go so many different ways to make a hand lotion, so let's make a few of them over the next few days!

I need a hand lotion for post crafting fun. I always think it ironic that I'm trashing my hands in the workshop making cuticle creams and hand lotions, and I need something that will make my hands feel better after all that sewing, knitting, resin casting, and so on. I tend to burn and cut myself a lot more than you'd expect - I'm incredibly clumsy and absent minded when I'm crafting - so ingredients that can reduce inflammation and help with wound healing would be a bonus. And I need something not too greasy as well. I want something that can stay on after hand washing, or at least feel like it's staying on. I don't mind something a little thicker because I'll be using this one around the house, probably in the evenings.

With these goals in mind, let's tweak! For my oils, I want something that won't be greasy, so I'll choose drier feeling oils. I haven't used kukui nut oil in a while, so let's use that as our primary oil. It has a lovely silkiness to it as well as a non-greasy feeling, plus it has both linoleic and oleic fatty acids, which can help moisturize our skin well and help repair skin's barrier mechanisms. I'm going to use mango butter at 5% - a nice dry butter - and behenyl alcohol at 3% to offer more conditioning for my skin. I'm adding 2% beeswax to help the lotion stay on, even after hand washing, and I'd like to include 3% calendula oil because it offers anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, and possible wound healing qualities. It can soothe inflamed and irritated skin, and helps regenerate new skin cells, and those are things I need in my hand lotion as I tend to have irritated and broken skin with all the sewing and sawing and sanding and everything else that leaves my hands trashed. (Note, I'm increasing my oil phase to be 25%, but I don't need to change the emulsifier at 8%, so my total oil ingredients - including the dimethicone in the cool down phase - is 33%.)

I want to include my barrier ingredients, so let's go with 2% dimethicone in the cool down phase and 0.5% allantoin in the heated water phase. I think I'll use some chamomile hydrosol at 20% and 0.5% powdered extract in this product because I really want ingredients that offer anti-inflammatory properties and those that can help increase my skin's barrier and the chamomile offers the soothing aspects. I'll add some aloe vera for its good emollient and anti-inflammatory properties. I also like the potential of wound healing. One ingredient I'm using a lot lately is witch hazel as it will offer a slightly feeling of astringency without drying out my hands, plus it works as an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant that is reported to have good circulation, wound healing, and bruise healing effects. I'm going to add 2% panthenol to the cool down phase and 2% hydrolyzed protein - I think I'll go with hydrolyzed silk protein for fun today - and a couple of humectants. I'm thinking 2.5% sodium lactate (and this link) and 3% glycerin for moisturizing. (I really want to use honeyquat for the conditioning and hygroscopic features, but I can't use cationics with this emulsifier!)

Does that look like everything? I think so! Let's put together this hand lotion that I hope will help with my burned, wounded, and otherwise trashed hands!

14.5% distilled water
20% chamomile hydrosol
10% aloe vera
10% witch hazel
3% glycerin
2.5% sodium lactate
0.5% allantoin

10% kukui nut oil
8% Ritamulse SCG
5% mango butter
3% behenyl alcohol
3% calendula oil
2% beeswax

2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
1% fragrance oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% powdered chamomile extract

Follow the basic lotion making instructions to make this product. But make sure that you mix the product until it reaches the cool down phase and add that phase when the product is under 45˚C or 113˚F because it could curdle the lotion if you add the preservative at a higher temperature. Mix until the product reaches 30˚C or 86˚F.

What do I think of this recipe? Wow! I love this hand lotion! It feels silky and not too greasy on my skin and it isn't too heavy. I think this might be my new Saturday night thing! I'm normally a fan of the greasy lotion, but I think this is a great balance! (If you wanted to reduce the greasiness more, add 2% IPM to the heated oil phase and 2% from the kukui nut oil or mango butter!) The beeswax is a nice addition and it definitely feels like there's a film of lotion on my hands after washing, so I don't need to apply it right away again. I don't know if it's helping heal my craft related wounds - and I can't make claims about that anyway - but it's certainly making my cuticles feel more moisturized! I scented this one with White Tea & Ginger (bought from Soapcraft, but originally from Brambleberry), which is a lovely light fragrance that isn't too overpowering.

Feel free to change any of the ingredients for those you have in your workshop, but remember, any changes you make will result in changes in viscosity and skin feel, so the product might feel different than I've described here! For instance, if you use cetyl alcohol instead of behenyl alcohol, it might feel a bit greasier. If you use cetearyl alcohol, it will feel waxier. Those are just two examples. 

Join me tomorrow as we have more fun formulating using various emulsifiers!

Related posts:
Learning to formulate: Modifying 60% water recipes 
Emulsifiers: Basic lotions with Ritamulse SCG
Emulsifiers: Ritamulse SCG

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