Sucragel AOF and Ritamulse SCG - but how do you convert your favourite recipe to use these new emulsifiers? Let's take a sample recipe and see how we might use it with different emulsifiers!
SAMPLE LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE
HEATED OIL PHASE
20% oils, butters, or esters
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil
As you can see, we figured out the oil phase - 25% - then figured out how much Polawax we might use by multiplying that oil phase of 25% by 0.25 to get 6.25%. (We use Polawax at 25% of the oil phase. Click here for more information!)
If we want to use emulsifying wax instead of Polawax, some suppliers recommend adding 1% more emulsifier to the product. So we'd have 7.25% emulsifying wax, and reduce the water amount from 60.75% to 59.75%.
Why am I reducing my water phase when I increase my oil phase? Because we need to have a total of 100% ingredients in our product. If we increase the e-wax by 1%, we now have 101%. So we reduce our water amount by the amount over 100% to ensure we have a balanced lotion. Click here for more information!
Incroquat BTMS-50 instead of Polawax, we don't really have a rule of thumb. You can use an amount equal to the Polawax amount - meaning we'd use 6.25% Incroquat BTMS-50 - but you can reduce it slightly, usually by a percentage or two. I wouldn't go with 4.25% in this recipe, but I would happily try 5.25% or higher. I find if I use the same amount of BTMS-50 as I do Polawax, it is a lot thicker than the original. But perhaps you like that? If you use 6.25% BTMS-50, leave the water the same. If you use 5.25% BTMS-50, add 1% water to the water phase. If you use 4.25% BTMS-50, add 2% water to the water phase. And so on...
If you have Incroquat BTMS-25, you aren't going to be able to emulsify a ton of oils using a similar amount of this emulsifier as you would BTMS-50. I don't recommend it for use in lotions. Some people have had great success with it; I haven't, and I've heard from enough people about their epic lotion fails with BTMS-25 to say that I don't recommend it as an emulsifier. If it works for you, that's fantastic!
If we want to use the HLB system to create a lotion, you can start with 4% emulsifier (figure out the exact amounts of the two emulsifiers) in place of the Polawax. Increase the water amount by 2.25%.
If we want to use Sucragel AOF, we'd have to heat the oil phase to ensure the cetyl alcohol works well
(Click here to see a similar recipe in action!) And substitute another oil for the IPM as this emulsifier doesn't play well with esters. If you want a drier feeling lotion - which is what the IPM brings to the party - then add something like hazelnut oil. If you want the lighter feeling of the ester, then use something like fractionated coconut oil. Also, reduce the emulsifier to 5% and increase the water phase by 1.25%.
Ritamulse SCG, we have to take out the Honeyquat as this emulsifier doesn't play well with cationics, and replace that 3% with another humectant or just some water. We have to increase our emulsifier to 8%, so take out 1.75% of the water amount for a total of 59% water.
Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with our new emulsifiers!
Emulsifiers - check what you've got!
Emulsifying systems: Polawax, e-wax, and Incroquat BTMS-50
An aside...Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier