Thursday, May 17, 2012

Update for a wonderful Thursday!

It's Thursday, and that means craft group at the library. But better yet, it means cosmetic chemistry crafting at the library tonight! We're making fragrance sprays, whipped butters, and salt/sugar scrubs. I'm very excited!

If you'd like to play along, here are the recipes we'll be making tonight. If you have or know some kids, these are great recipes to share with them! If you're a newbie, these are great recipes to start your bath & body addiction...I mean hobby. If you're an experienced crafter, these recipes are great reminders that simple recipes are still fantastic recipes!

97.5% water
1% polysorbate 20
1% fragrance oil or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I like liquid Germall Plus)

Mix the polysorbate 20 and fragrance/essential oil in a shot glass. Weigh your water and preservative directly into the spray bottle. Now add your polysorbate 20 and fragrance oil to the bottle. Shake. Put on mister top. Rejoice!

You can go as high as 3% each of polysorbate 20 and fragrance/essential oil, if you wish. Just reduce the amount of water. And you can substitute some of the water portion with aloe or hydrosols. One of my favourite variations of this recipe has 10% aloe, 10% lavender, 10% chamomile, 10% peppermint hydrosol, with 2% peppermint essential oil as a cooling spray.

80% shea butter or mango butter
18% oil of choice
1% fragrance or essential oil
1% Vitamin E

Heat the shea or mango butter in a double boiler until it is soft. Add your oil of choice - we're using soy bean oil tonight - and the fragrance and Vitamin E. Use a whipping attachment on your favourite mixer to make it just about double in size. Spoon into jars. Rejoice.

If you want to get that cute swirl on the top, load the whipped butter into a piping bag with a 1M tip and pipe into the jar.


97% liquid oil of choice
2% fragrance or essential oil
1% Vitamin E (optional)

Choose the oils you like best. Tonight we'll be using soybean oil for its awesome Vitamin E and linoleic acid, rice bran oil for the nice balance of oleic and linoleic acids, and either macadamia nut or hazelnut to make it a little less greasy. I'm going to add up to 5% IPM to increase that less greasy feeling!

Mix your oils together well. Into a clean jar at 100% salt. Pour the oils over top, mix, and you've got yourself a lovely scrub! This will need to be mixed every time you use it as the oils migrate to the top of the jar. (Buy a few little spatulae from your local supply store, like Voyageur, to ensure you aren't contaminating it!) If you are using this in the tub, please buy some plastic jars - glass and slippery surfaces aren't a winning combination (unlike alcohol and night swimming, according to Lenny!)

If you want to make a completely saturated oil scrub that won't need much stirring, you can put salt up to the top of the jar, then pour your oil over it. Let it sit overnight and see how much oil comes to the top. If it doesn't rise up and form a layer (or at least a significant layer), you have a saturated oil based scrub that won't need much stirring. It will feel drier than a scrub that has more oil available to it.

Have fun formulating! I know we're going to have a blast!

Related posts:
Back to Basics: Whipped butters
Back to Basics: Oil based scrubs
Emollients - oils, butters, exotic oils & esters


SKNgirl said...

These ARE great, simple them. I have been playing with some essential oil blends that turned out pretty nice for a room spray, but the scent seems to disappear pretty quickly after I've sprayed them. Do you have any suggestions for adding to the mix to help essential oil scents last longer (without pthalates)?

joesoap said...

Hi, love your blog and recipes, thank you! I'm lookng to make a room spray, but am unsure of how to work out the shelf life - can you help - if we took your recipe as an example? Joesoap

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi joesoap! I've written up a post about your question in this post - how do we figure out the shelf life of a product? The short answer is that it's the shelf life of the fragrance oil.

Hi SKNgirl. You will want to use a fragrance fixative, something like dipropylene glycol or C12-15 alkyl benzoate for an oil based product. Otherwise, have a conversation with your supplier to find out what they might suggest.

As an aside, if you made up an oily spray, the fragrance lasts longer than a water based spray!

Marjolein said...

I would love to use my glycol as fixative also.. I just mix the fragrance oil+tween20 and add it to the water and put glycol in this? Or does it need to be added to the tween+fragrance bit first? Thank you!