Thursday, May 31, 2012

Emulsifiers: Thicker lotions with Ritamulse SCG continued

We took a look at making a body butter with Ritamulse SCG yesterday - let's take a look at making thicker creams with this emulsifier. As I mentioned yesterday, the big difference between body butter and a thick cream are the names. In general, they both have a 60% to 65% water phase, and they both tend to use thickeners and butter in them. With a thick cream, I generally use stearic acid if I'm using it on hard to moisturize places like elbows and feet, but you can use cetyl alcohol or another fatty alcohol if you wish. Let's do some tweaking of our basic cream recipe and make something awesome for our feet!

Ask yourself about your goal. I want a foot lotion. What does that mean? I want something thick and tenacious that will moisturize really well. Let's choose our ingredients accordingly.

When it comes to feet, I'm not that picky about my humectant being slightly sticky, so I'm going with glycerin at about 4%. Feel free to go a bit nuts with your humectants here - I've tried a lotion with 25% glycerin that was so freakin' moisturizing, I almost slipped in the shower the next morning! I'll include some peppermint hydrosol at 20% and aloe vera at 10% because peppermint is awesome and because aloe vera will help moisturize. I like a little witch hazel in my foot lotions lately - mainly because it's supposed to help with blood circulation and inflammation. (Please choose witch hazel without added alcohol, like that you might find at your local drug store!)

Remember, we can't make claims about our products, but I'm allowed to choose ingredients because they offer great properties to my products! I'm choosing peppermint and menthol because they help with circulation and a feeling of coolness. I would never claim this if I were selling the product, but I can use that information to make decisions about ingredients! 

In the oil phase, I think I'll go with avocado oil because it's a great moisturizing oil and that's what I tend to need on my feet. I'll use stearic acid as my thickener, and I think I'll use shea butter because as I want something that will be tenacious, plus it will make the product more glidy. (As a note, if you have something like avocado butter, use that at 10% and find another oil. Rice bran or sesame oil would be nice! Oh, what the heck, I'll write up that version later!)

In the cool down phase, I might consider a few extracts, but for now, I'm thinking of using some essential oils like peppermint and spearmint. I really like this combination, but if you don't, there are some suggestions below.

11% distilled water
20% witch hazel
10% aloe vera
20% peppermint hydrosol
4% glycerin

10% shea butter
12% avocado oil
3% stearic acid
8% Ritamulse SCG

0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% peppermint EO
1% spearmint EO

Consider using 3% menthol, 1% camphor, and 1% eucalyptus in this product, and remove 5% from the water phase. Add the menthol to your oil phase, and add the camphor and eucalyptus in the cool down phase. Or consider using a blend of peppermint, camphor, and eucalyptus - equal parts - then add 1% to 2% to this product in the cool down phase.

Follow the basic lotion making instructions to make this product. But make sure that you mix the product until it reaches the cool down phase and add that phase when the product is under 45˚C or 113˚F because it could curdle the lotion if you add the preservative at a higher temperature. Mix until the product reaches 30˚C or 86˚F.

Wow! Do I love this or what? It's a tenacious foot cream that I can feel the next morning. I definitely recommend this to anyone who has trashed feet and needs help! If you want to make it feel less greasy, you can switch the butter to mango butter, change the oil to something like hazelnut oil, borage oil, or evening primrose, and add up to 5% IPM (click here for the emollients page for more information). I don't have a picture of this product because I used it really quickly! I loved it on my elbows - it took about three days for the scratchy elbow skin to turn into nice, not scratchy elbow skin, which is pretty remarkable. I really like Ritamulse SCG!

Join me tomorrow to make a slightly less greasy thick foot or body lotion!

Related posts:
Some thoughts on greasiness in lotions...
Emollients: Oils, butters & esters


Tara said...

In my foot creams, I like to use salicylic acid -- to act as an exfoliant -- and propylene glycol -- which is a solvent, humectant and penetration enhancer!! Awesome!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Tara! That's a great suggestion. I think I'm going to try that this weekend because most of us have callouses that could do with a little exfoliation!