Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Emulsifiers: Thicker lotions with Ritamulse SCG

We can use Ritamulse SCG to make anything from light lotions with 80% water to body butters with 60% water. We took a look at the 70% water recipe yesterday, so let's make a thick cream or body butter today.

The big difference is the amount of oils in the product. Let's use the full 25% oil phase to 8% emulsifier, which totals 33% of the oil phase. Our water phase will make up 60% to 65% of the lotion.

There isn't much difference between a thick cream and a body butter. In fact, a body butter would be considered a cream. The big difference, I find, is that a body butter generally has more butter in the oil phase and usually uses cetyl alcohol, whereas creams can use whatever they want and I would generally use stearic to make it longer lasting and thicker. But there's no difference between the two categories of product.

65% distilled water

25% oils, butters, esters, and so on
8% Ritamulse SCG

0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance oil

If I were to make this into a thick cream, I'd probably choose stearic acid as my thickener in the heated oil phase. If wanted to make this into a body butter, I'd go with one of the fatty alcohols - cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or even cetyl esters - as the thickener to make it more glidy. We already have cetearyl alcohol in the Ritamulse SCG, so let's use behenyl or cetyl alcohol in this product.

I'm in the mood for some body butter, so let's try that today and the cream tomorrow! 

We'll want to use quite a bit of butter in this product - 10% to 15% - so choose it wisely. All cocoa butter will result in a stiffer feeling product, all mango butter will result in a less greasy product, and shea butter will result in a more greasy product. You could try one of the exotic oils - I like babassu in a body butter, but I don't want 15% of it, so I think I might mix it up a bit - 5% babassu oil, 5% cocoa butter, and 5% ultra refined shea butter. You can use any combination you wish here!

For the oils, my butters are going to be a bit on the greasy side, so I could mitigate that by choosing a drier feeling oils or esters. I think I'm going to go with 2% IPM and 5% evening primrose oil because I want to reduce the greasy feeling and because I want to add some linoleic acid and gamma-linoleic acid to this product. Finally, I'm going to add 0.5% Vitamin E in the cool down phase because evening primrose has about a six month shelf life, and I want to extend the life span of this product. As with every other recipe I write, feel free to exchange these oils for ones you prefer or have in your workshop.

For the water phase, let's throw in a few goodies! Consider the goal of this product and the skin type for which you're formulating. I suggest that everyone, not just the dry skinned amongst us, should consider adding allantoin as our occlusive ingredient at 0.5% in the heated water phase, and remember to include a humectant. Since we're going into summer, which is a very humid time in the Fraser Valley, I'm going to include two humectants - sodium lactate at 2.5% and glycerin at around 3% - and I encourage you to choose some humectants you love. (If you're in doubt, glycerin is always a good choice.) I always include 10% aloe vera in my products, and I think I'll throw 10% chamomile into the mix to help reduce redness in my skin. I think I'm going to use 2% silk proteins in the heated water phase because I want all the moisturizing I can get!

In the cool down phase, I'm going to go with 0.5% powdered chamomile extract, again to reduce redness, and 0.5% powdered banana extract to help with moisturizing. And I'm going to use Germaben II because it works well with harder to preserve ingredients, like a few botanical extracts and hydrosols.

All right! Let's see what we have here!

36% water
0.5% allantoin
2.5% sodium lactate
3% glycerin
10% aloe vera liquid
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

8% Ritamulse SCG
3% cetyl or behenyl alcohol
15% butters - 5% babassu oil, 5% cocoa butter, 5% shea butter
2% IPM
5% evening primrose oil

1% Germaben II
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered banana extract
0.5% Vitamin E

Follow the basic lotion making instructions to make this product. But make sure that you mix the product until it reaches the cool down phase and add that phase when the product is under 45˚C or 113˚F because it could curdle the lotion if you add the preservative at a higher temperature. Mix until the product reaches 30˚C or 86˚F.

I scented mine with Clementine Cupcake fragrance oil (a Brambleberry fragrance, available at Soapcraft or Creations from Eden in Canada) and it is divine. A nice balance of glidiness and tenacity, I  find this body butter to be really moisturizing and hydrating! I definitely suggest trying this recipe.

As a note, if you want to use Polawax with this recipe, use 6.5% Polawax and add 1.5% water to the heated water phase. 

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a thicker cream with Ritamulse SCG!

Related posts:
Learning to formulate: Turning lotions into creams
Learning to formulate: Modifying creams
Learning to formulate: Modifying 60% water recipes
Learning to formulate: Butters, oils, and thickeners
Learning to formulate: More fun with thickeners
Lotions: Body butter creams
Emollients - oils, butters & esters
Formulating for dry skin: What ingredients can we use (part 1)?
Formulating for dry skin: What ingredients can we use (part 2)?


Ruth said...

Hi Susan..
Is the Powdered Chamomile Extract,
the same a just powdered chamomile?
I have powdered chamomile from Oregon Trails,
I don't see anywhere that is says extract.
I have never used it yet, as it feels almost like really, really fine pulp. And didn't know if it would dissolve.
It does smell good thou...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ruth. Is this it? (Link to chamomile at Oregon Trails.) If so, then this looks like what I have.

Ruth said...

Yes..that is what I have. Susan