Friday, May 25, 2012
Emulsifiers: Sucragel AOF - more complicated recipes
COMPLICATED RECIPE USING SUCRAGEL AOF
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% Sucragel AOF
3% cetyl alcohol
5% cocoa butter
17% oil of choice or combination
HEATED WATER PHASE
12% aloe vera
11% hydrosol of choice
2.5% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice (I like oat protein)
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% extract of choice
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or preservative of choice)
Weigh the heated oil phase in a tall heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Heat until the ingredients have melted. In another heatproof container, weigh out the heated water phase until the allantoin is dissolved.
Add the oil phase to the heated oil phase container, then add the heated water phase and the water phase. Mix well with the stick blender or propellor mixer until the temperature reaches 45˚C/113˚F, then add the cool down phase. Allow to cool to room temperature before bottling.
I've tried a few different combinations of oils in this recipe. To make it slightly drier, I used a combination of mango butter, borage oil (10%), and hazelnut oil (7%) and this created quite a dry combination. I found the mango butter, shea oil (10%), and rice bran oil (7%) was a lovely combination as well.
Feel free to play with the hydrosols and extracts. I liked the combination of lavender hydrosol and chamomile extract, but you can play around with any combination you like. Feel free to substitute all the water portion for a hydrosol, if you wish.
Join me tomorrow as we take a last look at Sucragel AOF by making a basic facial moisturizer recipe.
Emollients - oils, butters & esters
Extracts & hydrosols