Thursday, May 24, 2012

Emulsifiers: Sucragel AOF - heated recipes

Sucragel AOF can be used to make cold lotions, but sometimes we need to heat our ingredients to incorporate them into a lotion. Let's take a look at a few situations in which we might need to heat ingredients in either the oil or water phases.

SLIGHTLY THICKER BUT STILL LIGHT LOTION USING SUCRAGEL AOF
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% Sucragel AOF
3% cetyl alcohol

OIL PHASE
10% rice bran oil
10% soybean oil
0.5% Vitamin E 

WATER PHASE
2.5% sodium lactate
0.5% xanthan gum
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil
66.5% distilled water

Add the Sucragel AOF and cetyl alcohol to a tall container and heat until the cetyl alcohol has dissolved. Then add the oil phase and the water phase in that order and mix for 3 to 5 minutes with a stick blender or propellor mixer. Ensure the lotion temperature is 45˚C/113˚F before adding the liquid Germall Plus and fragrance/essential oil.

The cetyl alcohol will thicken this product nicely. You can use another fatty alcohol in its place - behenyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol - but please do not use stearic acid as it cause it to separate. You can leave out the xanthan gum if you don't have it, but you will end up with a slightly thinner product.

As we saw in the formulating for dry skin series, using occlusive ingredients can reduce the amount of transepidermal water loss and keep our skin more hydrated. The three approved by the FDA are dimethicone, cocoa butter, and allantoin. We don't want to use dimethicone as Sucragel AOF doesn't emulsify silicones well, so we can choose from cocoa butter or allantoin.

We can heat the water phase to dissolve certain things into it, so I'll add 0.5% allantoin to the water phase and heat it until the allantoin has dissolved. And I'll add 5% cocoa butter to the heated oil phase to offer more occlusion.

THICKER LOTION WITH OCCLUSIVE INGREDIENTS USING SUCRAGEL AOF
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% Sucragel AOF
3% cetyl alcohol
5% cocoa butter

OIL PHASE
15% oils of your choice
0.5% Vitamin E

HEATED WATER PHASE
20% distilled water
0.5% allantoin

WATER PHASE
47% distilled water
2.5% sodium lactate or humectant of choice
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil

Weigh the Sucragel AOF, cetyl alcohol, and cocoa butter into a heatproof container and put into the double boiler until the ingredients are melted. Weigh the heated water phase into a heatproof container and place into the double boiler until the allantoin has dissolved. Try not to get the water phase over about 50˚C/122˚F because we don't want the product to be too warm when we add the rest of the water phase! Remove the oil phase from the double boiler and add the rest of the oil phase, the heated water phase, the rest of the distilled water, and the sodium lactate or other humectant. Mix well until the temperature reaches 45˚C/113˚F and add the liquid Germall Plus and fragrance/essential oil. Let sit until completely cooled before bottling.

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with Sucragel AOF when we make a few more complicated lotions! 

2 comments:

allaboutlavender said...

Hi Susan,
If you have time can you please play with Olivem 1000 too? I'm very curious about that emulsifier.
Thanks!

Robert said...

Hi Susan:

How would you describe the thickness/viscosity of your two samples?

Did you find the same stickiness to these samples as you described in your previous post?

To allaboutlavender: We have worked with Olivem 1000 for quite a number of years and have found it to be a very good emulsifier. As well, it has good moisturizing properties and, being nonionic, it is compatible with almost all ingredients.

Robert