Saturday, May 26, 2012

Emulsifiers: Sucragel AOF - facial moisturizer recipes

Sucragel AOF is a great emulsifier for moisturizers because you can load it with oils and butters and still keep that thin consistency. Let's take a look at a basic recipe for a facial moisturizer.

5% Sucragel AOF
24.5% oils
0.5% Vitamin E

65.5% distilled water, hydrosols, or aloe vera
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Put all the oil phase ingredients into a tall container, then add the water phase. Mix well for 3 to 5 minutes, then let rest for a bit to ensure you like the consistency before bottling.

This is all fine and good, but we want our moisturizers to have some oomph with all kinds of wonderful cosmeceuticals and decadent ingredients. Remember that we don't want to go over 25% oils in this product and that when we add an ingredient, we remove the equal amount from the water amount.

I like to add aloe vera and a hydrosol to my facial products, so let's add those at 10% each for a total of 20%. I think I'll add a couple of powdered extracts. I like 0.5% powdered rosemary extract for my oily skin and and 0.5% powdered chamomile extract to reduce redness. For humectants, I'll go with 2.5% sodium lactate, but you can use any humectant you wish. (Except honeyquat as we're still not sure if this plays well with cationic ingredients.) I think I'll add 0.5% allantoin to this product as well to behave as an occlusive. As for cosmeceuticals, I could include 2% niacinamide in the heated water phase.

For the oils, I'm going to add 5% oil soluble green tea extract, 10% evening primrose oil, and 9.5% calendula oil as I'm looking for oils will feel drier on my skin and offer some anti-inflammatory and anti-reddening properties. (Kukui nut oil would be awesome here for that drier feeling!)

5% Sucragel AOF
5% oil soluble green tea extract
10% evening primrose oil
9.5% calendula oil

10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
2% niacinamide
0.5% allantoin

39% distilled water
2.5% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% rosemary extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Add the oil phase to a tall container and set aside. Weigh the heated water phase in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler until the powders have dissolved. Add the heated water phase and the water phase to the tall container and mix for 3 to 5 minutes with a stick blender or propellor mixer. Ensure the lotion temperature is 45˚C/113˚F before adding the cool down phase. If you wish to add 0.5% xanthan gum to the product, feel free to do so.

If you feel this lotion is too thin for your tastes, consider adding 3% cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or behenyl alcohol to the oil phase and remove 3% of another oil. You will have to heat the oil phase up to have the fatty alcohol melt.

You can modify this recipe as much as you like, adding different extracts, hydrosols, oils, and cosmeceuticals until you've tried every combination possible! Take a look at the related posts section below for some ideas on how to modify this moisturizer to your liking. If you have a moisturizer recipe you love, try it with Sucragel AOF. You'll notice it's much thinner than any version you've made with other emulsifiers, which is one of the reasons that Sucragel AOF works so well in moisturizers!

Join me tomorrow as we take a closer look at the anionic emulsifier Ritamulse SCG.

Related posts:
Cosmeceutials: A summary and links
Using cosmeceuticals in our facial products
Formulating for dry skin: Moisturizers
Formulating for dry skin: Moisturizers continued
Using cosmeceuticals in products for oily skin
Emollients: Oils, butters & esters


My said...

Love this blog! You share so much and many usefull articles. Thankyou so much!

Kirsten Thomas. said...

Hi Susan, I know this is an old thread, so I hope that you see this! I am curious about using sucragel as a gel to creamy facial cleanser. Have you used it for this yet? I know that the website of the company that makes it in the UK has a basic recipe, but they also don't state very clearly what else I could add or not add to make this yummy. I am intrigued by the method of not having to heat and hold for 20, and excited to try this. Thanks! Kirsten

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kirsten! I don't really like Sucragel as it feels sticky to me, but you could try it as a cleanser and see what you think. What were you thinking you'd include in it?

Kirsten Thomas. said...

sorry it took me so long to see this, lol. Been too busy!! Thanks for responding. I value your opinion, so if sucragel feels a bit sticky, i will play with it later. I am interested in a rinse off cleanser or makeup remover, but that will be at a later date. In the meantime, I have a question for you...if I was to make an eye serum (hydrous), do you have a suggestion for a cold emulsifying system that you like? I have used aristoflex before, but it didn't want to play with some ingredients. I don't want a stiff gel, I want an almost "water like" thin serum just loaded with revital eyes and some peptides. Thanks for any direction!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Have you tried playing with some of the gelling ingredients, like sodium carbomer, Ultrez 21, Sepimax ZEN, or Sepinov EMT 10 for an eye serum? Those might work well!