Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Emulsifiers: Sucragel AOF - cold process recipes

As I mentioned in yesterday's post on Sucragel AOF, products made with this emulsifier can be made cold. Let's take a look at a few recipes we could make through cold process with Sucragel AOF.

LIGHT LOTION USING SUCRAGEL AOF
OIL PHASE
5% Sucragel AOF
10% rice bran oil
10% soy bean oil
0.5% Vitamin E

WATER PHASE
2.5% sodium lactate
0.5% xanthan gum
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance or essential oil
69.5% distilled water

Make sure you follow this order when making this product. Put the oil phase into a tall container - a beaker, a beer cup, a drinking glass - then add the water phase. Using a stick blender or propellor mixer, blend for about 3 minutes to ensure good consistency. Let it sit for at least an hour before bottling to ensure it has the consistency you want. If you want it slightly thicker, add 0.5% xanthan gum to the lotion before bottling.

I know in this post on xanthan gum I mention using 0.1% to 0.3% so you don't end up with an epic lotion fail, but I found that using up to 1% was necessary for thickening with this emulsifier. Start with 0.1% if you are more comfortable doing that! 

If you use lighter oils and leave out the xanthan gum, you'll end up with a lotion that is thin enough to spray!

One of the formulations I saw from the company suggested that you could use this product as a leave in hair conditioner. It isn't truly a conditioner as it doesn't contain any cationic ingredients that actually condition our hair, but you could use it as a moisturizing spray that contains oils!

Original recipe can be found here...

MOISTURIZING SPRAY FOR YOUR HAIR USING SUCRAGEL AOF
OIL PHASE
6% Sucragel AOF
20% oils
73.5% water
0.5% liquid Germall Plus (or other preservative of choice)

Add the Sucragel and oils to the container, then add the water and liquid Germall Plus. Stick blend for up to 5 minutes to ensure the product emulsifies properly.

Which oils can you use for your hair? Click here for a post on this topic!

You could add a butter to this product - something like shea butter might be nice! - but you'll have to heat the product to make that work. So join me tomorrow as we enjoy more formulating fun with Sucragel AOF and recipes that require heating!

4 comments:

kinks said...

I've been experimenting with sucragel for a few months. I've recently made an eye gel using sucragel and tamanu, rosehip and castor oils.

I've tried it as a hair conditioner and hair milk, although its very nice and leaves my hair moisturised, I find it leaves bits in my hair like when glue dries on your hand....(I have afro, kinky curly hair).
I have both the AOF and the CF

Robert said...

Hi Susan:

Good for you for doing a series on emusifiers. We find that the emulsifier is the key factor in the general feel of a product. If a certain emulsifier gives a sticky feeling then all the aethetic modifiers in the world won't completely eliminate this stickiness.

We have not done any experimentation with Sucragel but we see that it is available in several grades. Based on the prototype formulas given we see that cream and lotion prototype formulas use the Sucragel CF grade rather than the AOF grade. We suggest trying the CF grade in your cream to see if it gives a higher viscosity product. It also looks like you will need an stabilizer/thickener in addition to xanthan gum.

Here is a link to starting formulas using Sucragel:

http://www.alfa-chemicals.co.uk/Libraries/Sucragel/Full_Sucragel_formulations_booklet_July_2011.sflb.ashx

As, always, keep up your nice posts and happy experimenting.

Robert Urist

allaboutlavender said...

Thank you for covering emulsifiers! It would be such a time saver to be able to do cold emulsions. However, I did notice that the link supplied by Robert led to formulas using Sucragel that were heated as usual. It also didn't list very long timelines for stability. Is this really a good emulsifier? I guess time will tell.

Anonymous said...

nice opinion. thanks for posting.