Sunday, April 15, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: What other things could we include in our body wash?

We've created our basic body wash recipe and we're happy with it...but we could tweak it further! (We can ALWAYS do more tweaking, but it takes real skill to know when to stop!) So what kinds of things we could do to this recipe to make it more moisturizing and what ingredients will increase the mildness or help hydrate dry skin?

BASIC BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
10% SCI or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% cationic polymer
2% hydrolyzed protein
10% water soluble ester or 5% solubilizer and 5% oil of choice
34.5% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% preservative (I prefer liquid Germall Plus)

up to 5% liquid Crothix at the end
or up to 2% glycol distearate in the heated water phase

EXTRACTS: I love chamomile for red and damaged skin, so you could add 10% chamomile hydrosol (heck, add 20%!) in the heated water phase or 0.5% powdered chamomile extract in the cool down phase. You could add 0.5% powdered banana extract - it sounds interesting - in the cool down phase as well. You can use a variety of hydrosols in the heated water phase - lavender would be nice, as would be peppermint (if you make sure you keep it away from mucous membranes that might tingle!)  


CATIONIC POLYMERS: I'd go with polyquat 7 because it's the easiest for me to get and the least expensive. You could use polyquat 44, but you'd only want to use it at 0.5% to 1% maximum. Honeyquat is a great choice here - use at up to 5% in the cool down phase. 

If we want to create this recipe as is with a few substitutions, here's an idea. 

BASIC BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN, VERSION 1
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
10% SCI or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% polyquat 7
2% silk protein
10% PEG-7 olivate
2% glycol distearate
34.5% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% preservative (I prefer liquid Germall Plus)

up to 5% liquid Crothix or another thickener (optional) 

Please consult this post for suggestions on how to make this product. 

I'm going to get a little reckless here and try making a thicker product that will look quite pearlized (like this example here!) I'm loading it up with a ton of extracts, hydrosols, and powders just for fun. This is an extremely moisturizing product with a very moisturized after feel. If you have oily skin, this is probably a little much for you, whereas normal skin could go either. 

BASIC BODY WASH, VERSION 2 - MUCH THICKER AND PEARLIZED
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
20% SCI or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
10% lavender hydrosol
5% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% hydrolyzed silk protein or silk amino acids
10% water soluble shea
2% niacinamide
1.5% water (don't include in the heated water phase...see note below)

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% preservative (I prefer liquid Germall Plus)
3% honeyquat
0.5% banana extract
0.5% chamomile extract

Heat up the 1.5% water so you can dissolve the banana and chamomile extract in it. Don't include it in the heated water phase. As for thickening, if you use a fragrance that doesn't thin out your products - for instance, nothing with vanilla in it - you should have a product that is quite thick. If you don't have a product thick enough for your preferences, then add up to 5% liquid Crothix or another thickener to the product at the suggested usage rates.

Don't forget that you can modify this recipe to become a facial cleanser packed full of lovely extracts and other things. Do we have plans for tomorrow? Let me check my iCal. Nothing planned...hmm. Let's make a foamy facial cleanser suitable for dry skin for tomorrow!

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