Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: More facial cleansers...

I love this creamy exfoliating cleanser! I can use it for my oily skin maybe once a month and my best friend with normal skin can use it once a week, but someone with dry skin could use it every day, although I'd make a version without the jojoba beads because you don't want to exfoliate too much!

Let's take a look at the version I recommend for dry skin, then modify it to include ingredients that might be easier to find or easier on the wallet!

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN
HEATED WATER PHASE
25% SMC taurate or other really gentle surfactant
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
18% water
10% aloe vera
up to 5% glycerin
3% hydrolyzed proteins of choice
5% water soluble oil or other emollient

COOL DOWN PHASE
5% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative

AFTER COOL DOWN (OPTIONAL)
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads

Surfactants: When we made our body wash for dry skin, we identified a few different surfactants that might work well for dry skin, including...
  • sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) as it has a creamy feeling while you're washing and a lovely feeling afterwards. You can use the liquid ammonium cocoyl isethionate as well!;
  • sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (SMC taurate) or sodium methyl oleoyl taurate (SMO taurate), both of which are considered very gentle and moisturizing; 
  • polyglucose/lactylate blend, which is a combination of decyl glucoside and sodium lauroyl lactylate, both of which are considered gentle and ultra mild;  
  • sometimes disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, which is good for all hair and skin types as it is gentle; and
  • definitely cocamidopropyl betaine, which is our secondary amphoteric surfactant that increases viscosity and mildness in our products. 
You can choose other surfactants, but these seem to be the mildest and easiest to find at our suppliers' shops.

Jojoba esters: These are a pain to find, so I'm going to suggest that you could use other water soluble emollients, like water soluble olive oil (PEG-7 olivate), water soluble shea (I'm having a love affair with this stuff in my body wash!), glycol distearate (up to 2% in the heated water phase), Cromollient SCE, myristamine oxide, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and so on. You could also create a water soluble oil by adding about one part oil to about one part polysorbate 80 and adding that to the product.

Click here for all the posts on emollients. Scroll down a bit for the esters!

Jojoba beads: You could use another exfoliant in this product. There are many many choices, and my suggestion is to use something small that could be suspended in the bottle. I wouldn't use anything huge like apricot or walnut shells, unless they are quite small. As you can see, if you don't use the product regularly, the jojoba beads and oil will float to the top of the bottle!

Note: When you change any of the ingredients I list for something else, you will see a difference in skin feel and viscosity. My product is quite watery until I add a lot of Crothix, whereas your product might be quite thick and you find you don't need it at all!

Related posts:
Formulating for dry skin: What is dry skin?
Formulating for dry skin: Creating facial cleansers
Formulating for dry skin: Creating body wash from scratch
Formulating for dry skin: Creating a facial cleanser for a foamer bottle
Formulating for your skin type: Creating creamy exfoliating facial cleanser with jojoba beads

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