Monday, April 16, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: Creating a facial cleanser for a foamer bottle

This recipe is based off this one, sort of, so read it first, if you wish! And I really encourage you to read this post first - facial cleansers for dry skin - because I really do go into most of the detail necessary for you to create a facial cleanser in this post! Then read this one - ingredients for skin cleansers. Okay, I think we're ready!

We can take yesterday's body wash recipe and add a bit more water to make this awesome for dry skin, and we've got a facial cleanser. I'm not joking. If you take a look at that recipe, there are tons of things in there that would be great for dry facial skin. We have ingredients that will moisturize, other than that will hydrate, and others than cleanse.

If we make up a batch of this product at original strength, then add 100% water to it - add this to the water phase - we can make a wonderful foamer bottle product! Either of the recipes will work for this purpose - just increase the amount of water or by 100% while you're making it, and don't thicken the product in any way. Or reduce your surfactants to 5% each (total of 15% for one recipe and 20% for the other) and make it that way if you want to get more concentrated levels of the other ingredients! Heck, most products will work to make a foamy bottle product this way - just make sure there's at least a 30% product to 70% water ratio, and increase your preservative accordingly. If you're adding 100% more water to the product, you'd want to add 1% more liquid Germall Plus or 2% Germaben II, for instance. We have to make sure we have enough preservative in the mix! Oh, and leave out the fragrance. It's great for a body wash, but not so fabulous for a facial wash!

Why put something in a foamer bottle? A few reasons...

  • Foam is fun! Try washing your hands with regular soap then use a foamer bottle. Which is more fun? The foamer bottle! It always makes me feel like a little kid! 
  • The product will be less concentrated, and when it comes to using product on our faces, the last thing we need is a really concentrated product! We want something really mild, and if we water at 30% product down, we can get all the goodies like hydrolyzed proteins or panthenol without all the surfacants!
  • The product will be easier to rinse off. That feeling of tightness on our skin is a result of hard-to-rinse off surfactants, so diluted surfactants will rinse off easier from our face than non-diluted surfactants. 
  • We don't have to worry about thickening the product because it's in a foamer bottle and we don't want it thickened! 

Here's a recipe I made that is more concentrated, but still usable in an pump bottle! I'd suggest increasing the glycerin to 5% for dry skin!

30.5% water
10% SCI (Jordapon prilled, no stearic acid) or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
3% glycerin
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% polyquat 7 (or honeyquat, which goes into the cool down phase, not the heated phase!)
2% cromoist (or other hydrolyzed protein)

5% liquid green tea extract (note below)
2% panthenol
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% powdered extract
3% Multifruit BSC

Note about liquid green tea extract: If you have powdered extract, use it at 0.5% and add 4.5% to the water phase. I'm using the liquid stuff because I bought it and I wanted to play with it! If you don't want to include either, remove it and add an appropriate amount of water back to the heated water phase!

1. Weigh the SCI and cocamipropyl betaine into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is melted.

2. Weigh the rest of the heated phase into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is the same temperature as the SCI and cocamipropyl betaine.

3. Combine the two containers and mix very well until it is a homogenous solution. Don't stir too vigorously or you might end up with tons of bubbles that take some time to get to the top of the bottle!

4. When the mixture reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase. Again, don't mix it too vigorously!

5. Let this sit until it comes to room temperature before bottling.

So how the heck did I manage to get SCI into a foamer bottle when we know it thickens our mixtures? SCI mostly thickens because of the stearic acid. By using a version that doesn't contain it, I didn't include the thickening feature. If you want to put this in a pump or squeeze type bottle instead of a foamer either use the SCI with stearic acid (the noodles and sometimes the flakes) or add up to 2% Crothix or other thickener at the appropriate level.

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at facial toners for dry skin!


Leman said...

Hi Susan,

These are great recipes I'd like to try both the facial wash and the body wash but I don't have and can't find polyglucose/lactylate. Can I just increase the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine? Or how about if I use Plantapon SF blend instead? A Blend of (Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (and) Glycerin (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate)?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leman! You can use any surfactants you want. I'd suggest reading this post - creating skin cleansers: an overview of ingredients - then this post - creating a body wash from scratch - for some ideas on surfactants you can use in these products. I've chosen these three surfactants because I like them, but there are so many choices out there!

Leman said...

Thanks Susan!

Diane said...

Hi Susan,
I love this thread and learn something every day.

Jeannette Thomas said...

HI Susan, Great Formula.
For the Preservative Section, May I use (Leucidal Liquid) - Will this change the formula at all?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jeannette. I don't know - try it. You'll need to use more Leuicidal liquid than I'd use liquid Germall Plus, so you'll have to reduce your water amount by the increase, but otherwise, I don't think much'll change!

Mary said...

Hi Susan.I'm Mary. Please help me this issue. My cleanser ( this recipe) after a day turned sedimetation, there was a white milk color layer at the bottom of bottle, it wasnt the recrystalization, when you shake, they can be mixed again. How can I make its texture stable? And is your texture always stable like the picture of creamy foam with the green foam lid. I wish that I can make a beautiful texture like yours. I really love this smooth, hydration finished feeling.Hope you get my mean and sorry for my bad English. Thank you so so much, Susan !