we took a look at various ingredients we might like to include in a body wash, so let's take that information and create a basic recipe for a body wash so we can play with all those wonderful ingredients that will moisturize and hydrate dry skin!
BASIC BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
10% SCI or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
5% cationic polymer
2% hydrolyzed protein
10% water soluble ester or 5% solubilizer and 5% oil of choice
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% preservative (I prefer liquid Germall Plus)
up to 5% liquid Crothix at the end
or up to 2% glycol distearate in the heated water phase
If you are using liquid ACI or all liquid surfactants, add the entire water phase together and heat in a double boiler until the temperature reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold at that temperature for 20 minutes. Compensate for the lost water by weighing the container at the end of the heat and hold and adding enough water to make it the weight it should be. Add the cool down phase when it reaches 45˚C.
If you are using prilled, flaked, or noodled SCI, I suggest mixing the cocamidopropyl betaine and SCI in a container and heating it in the double boiler until it melts. (Click here for some idea on this process.) At the same time, combine the rest of the water phase ingredients in another container and heat until it reaches 70˚C, then heat and hold. When it looks like the SCI is well melted - if you mix it, it's a nice consistency and looks uniform - then add it to the heated water phase ONLY if the heated water phase is at 70˚C or higher. Mix really well, continue the holding, and remove after 20 minutes. Then add the cool down phase when it reaches 45˚C.
If you are using up to 2% glycol distearate to thicken this product, remove 2% from the water phase, and melt this in the heated SCI and cocamidopropyl phase. If you aren't using solid SCI, then melt it on its own in a container until it melts, then add it to the heated water phase. (If you add it to the heated water phase unmelted, it will take forever to melt!!!) You will likely need another thickener with this product.
If you are using liquid Crothix to thicken this product, fragrance and colour it, and let it sit overnight to come to room temperature. Add up to 0.5% Crothix at a time and mix before adding another 0.5%. Do this up to 5%.
If you are using something else to thicken it - xanthan gum, carbomer, and so on - follow the normal instructions for that thickener.
When you're using cationic polymers, check your usage rate and suggested phase. If you're using polyquat 7, you can use up to 5% in the heated water phase. If you're using honeyquat at up to 5%, please use it in the cool down phase as it can smell just awful - very plasticky - when used in the heated phase. If you're using polyquat 44, use a maximum of 1% in the heated water phase. And so on.
And if you want to use other surfactants, have at it...but please make sure that you are using an amphoteric like cocamidopropyl betaine or disodium cocoamphodiacetate to increase the mildness and please make sure you test the final pH if the surfactants aren't in the acidic range to start. (I'm referring to the glucosides, mainly, but check with your supplier if you're not sure!)
Join me tomorrow as we have some great fun modifying this recipe with various extracts, esters, and emollients!