Saturday, April 14, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: Creating a basic recipe for a body wash

Yesterday we took a look at various ingredients we might like to include in a body wash, so let's take that information and create a basic recipe for a body wash so we can play with all those wonderful ingredients that will moisturize and hydrate dry skin!

BASIC BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% polyglucose/lactylate blend
10% SCI or ACI
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% cationic polymer
2% hydrolyzed protein
10% water soluble ester or 5% solubilizer and 5% oil of choice
34.5% water

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% fragrance/essential oil
0.5% preservative (I prefer liquid Germall Plus)

up to 5% liquid Crothix at the end
or up to 2% glycol distearate in the heated water phase

If you are using liquid ACI or all liquid surfactants, add the entire water phase together and heat in a double boiler until the temperature reaches 70˚C. Heat and hold at that temperature for 20 minutes. Compensate for the lost water by weighing the container at the end of the heat and hold and adding enough water to make it the weight it should be. Add the cool down phase when it reaches 45˚C.

If you are using prilled, flaked, or noodled SCI, I suggest mixing the cocamidopropyl betaine and SCI in a container and heating it in the double boiler until it melts. (Click here for some idea on this process.) At the same time, combine the rest of the water phase ingredients in another container and heat until it reaches 70˚C, then heat and hold. When it looks like the SCI is well melted - if you mix it, it's a nice consistency and looks uniform - then add it to the heated water phase ONLY if the heated water phase is at 70˚C or higher. Mix really well, continue the holding, and remove after 20 minutes. Then add the cool down phase when it reaches 45˚C.

If you are using up to 2% glycol distearate to thicken this product, remove 2% from the water phase, and melt this in the heated SCI and cocamidopropyl phase. If you aren't using solid SCI, then melt it on its own in a container until it melts, then add it to the heated water phase. (If you add it to the heated water phase unmelted, it will take forever to melt!!!) You will likely need another thickener with this product.

If you are using liquid Crothix to thicken this product, fragrance and colour it, and let it sit overnight to come to room temperature. Add up to 0.5% Crothix at a time and mix before adding another 0.5%. Do this up to 5%.

If you are using something else to thicken it - xanthan gum, carbomer, and so on - follow the normal instructions for that thickener.

When you're using cationic polymers, check your usage rate and suggested phase. If you're using polyquat 7, you can use up to 5% in the heated water phase. If you're using honeyquat at up to 5%, please use it in the cool down phase as it can smell just awful - very plasticky - when used in the heated phase. If you're using polyquat 44, use a maximum of 1% in the heated water phase. And so on.

And if you want to use other surfactants, have at it...but please make sure that you are using an amphoteric like cocamidopropyl betaine or disodium cocoamphodiacetate to increase the mildness and please make sure you test the final pH if the surfactants aren't in the acidic range to start. (I'm referring to the glucosides, mainly, but check with your supplier if you're not sure!)

Join me tomorrow as we have some great fun modifying this recipe with various extracts, esters, and emollients!

10 comments:

catherine said...

Hi. I made my first body wash/shampoo. I used:

15% cocamidopropyl betaine
25% sodium laureth sulfate
0.5% soy protein
3% glycerin
3% honeyquat
2% hydroxyethylcellulose thickener
1% optiphen plus preservative
50.5% distilled water

I'm happy with my first effort. Very easy since all liquid ingredients although the thickener I got from personalformulator was interesting...very thick and gelatinous so had to mix very thoroughly. I got coca. betaine and SLES from personalformulator too. All else from lotioncrafter.

Used once. It was fine although a little drying. I had planned to use 2% soy protein but all I had was 0.5%. Next time will make milder...use less surfactants (esp SLES?), use more glycerin/honeyquat/protein/etc, use aloe. I went 'full strength' my first time out (40% surfactants) so maybe next time 20%. Also maybe next time I'll add water soluble oil...gotta buy polysorbate first.

An aside: it's so easy and inexpensive to make your own body wash/shampoo! And you know everything that's in it. I didn't add fragrance bc hubby has sensitive skin (although I've learned from blog that not all fragrances are sensitizing) but it smelled just fine. I'm done with the whole foods brand fragrance free body wash/shampoo I've been using which smells horrible and provides no foam, which makes for such an unpleasant shower...much more than I imagined.

Anyhow, thanks for the blog and inspiration.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Catherine! Yay for making your body wash! As a note, you could reduce the amount of SLeS to make something milder - say 10% SLeS and 15% cocamidopropyl betaine? You can add a water soluble oil on its own - it's water soluble, so you don't need to use a solubilizer with it!

Let us know about your tweaks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Catherine! Yay for making your body wash! As a note, you could reduce the amount of SLeS to make something milder - say 10% SLeS and 15% cocamidopropyl betaine? You can add a water soluble oil on its own - it's water soluble, so you don't need to use a solubilizer with it!

Let us know about your tweaks!

catherine said...

Yes I was thinking to make a water soluble oil...waiting to purchase polysorbate to make it. Or are you saying I can buy a water soluble oil?

Thanks!

David said...

Susan, How could you turn a formula like this into a bubble bath? The SCI and ACI are both "soap friendly" so I think it would be a good formula to tweek for that purpose!

Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Catherine! You can buy water soluble oils - for instance, water soluble shea at Lotioncrafters or PEG-7 olivate at a number of retailers (I tend to get mine from the Personal Formulator, but you can find it in a lot of other locations). Or you can make your own by mixing polysorbate 80 and the oil in about equal parts then add them to the product.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi David. Play with it and see what happens. When I make a bubble bath I want to make sure I have flash foam, good bubbles, and long term foam. I'm not sure if these three surfactants would offer those things, but they might. I'd definitely want to have 40% to 50% surfactants in a bubble bath!

I have quite a few bubble bath recipes on the blog. Compare this to those and see what you think!

David said...

Susan, thanks for getting back to me. The 40-50% range was what I was looking for. I have your blog on file and did a search for "bubble bath" and came up with 115 hits. You mention bubble bath but only have the one formula that is posted back in 2009 but that was the only one I could find! Amazing! Keep up the great work!

David

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi David. I realized that there is only one bubble bath recipe on the blog because I love that recipe so much, I didn't think to tweak it! Here are some links that might help.
Recipe for bubble bath.
Surfactants page

How do you have my blog on file? I'd like to do that!

David said...

Susan, thanks for the pointers! I have since seen bb formulas with 60% surfactants in them! I will have to give it a try soon! I have copied all of your posts (minus a few crafting posts - I am an expert knitter and am even mentioned in Vogue Knitting's 20th anniversary book!) but it is 20 mg.! I have it in order from beginning to end instead of the other way round. Lots of cutting and pasting! Thanks, Susan