basic lotion recipe as the base for this product, but I'm adapting it to include humectants every single time for dry skin. (I generally use humectants in all my products, but I left it out of the basic lotion recipe to make it more basic and easier to follow for beginning formulators!)
BASIC LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE (69.5% of the lotion)
or 67% water and
2.5% sodium lactate or sodium PCA
HEATED OIL PHASE (29% of the lotion)
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)
COOL DOWN PHASE (1.5% of the lotion)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
(This doesn't total 100% because of the difference in preservatives!)
So what do we want to include for dry skin?
We definitely want a humectant, maybe three, so I'm going to add 3% glycerin, 3% honeyquat, and 2% panthenol. I like honeyquat for doing double duty as a humectant and a skin conditioning agent, so I'll add it to the cool down phase. We could add some chamomile hydrosol at 10% and aloe vera at 10% in the water phase, as well. I think I'll add 2% silk protein into the water phase - you can use any hydrolyzed protein you want, but I think silk works best for dry skin. I'll include 0.5% allantoin here in the heated water phase.
For my oils, I think I'll use 10% sunflower oil, 5% rice bran oil, and 5% cocoa butter. I'm going to use cetyl alcohol as my thickener here and Polawax for the emulsifier.
For the cool down phase, I'm adding 3% honeyquat and 2% panthenol (as noted above), and I'll be using a fragrance oil at 1% and liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%. If you are using another preservative, then adjust your water amount accordingly.
Have we covered all the bases for a dry skin product?
Occlusive ingredients - cocoa butter and allantoin.
Emollient ingredients - sunflower oil (high linoleic acid), rice bran oil (high linoleic acid), aloe vera
Humectant ingredients - panthenol, glycerin, honeyquat
BASIC LOTION RECIPE FOR DRY SKIN, VERSION ONE
HEATED WATER PHASE
10% chamomile hydrosol
10% aloe vera
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
HEATED OIL PHASE
10% sunflower oil
5% rice bran oil
5% cocoa butter
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe. This product will have a shelf life of about 6 months due to the use of sunflower oil. If you want this to last longer, remove the sunflower oil and use all rice bran oil for a shelf life of about a year. Or add about 0.5% Vitamin E in the cool down phase for a longer shelf life (not sure how much longer, but slightly longer!)
I'd use this lotion as an all over body lotion or hand lotion. Join me tomorrow for a few more ideas on creating lotions for dry skin!
If you want to learn more about formulating lotions, I encourage you to start at the beginning of the learning to formulate series and hit "newer post" at the bottom of each one to continue through the series!