Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Newbie Tuesday: It's time to make lotion

It's Tuesday! Did your supplies arrive? Are you ready to make a lotion? Do you have your supplies ready? All right! Let's go!

Sorry I didn't have a video ready - it's been hovering around 0˚C in my workshop and the heater only brought it to 9˚C on a good day! I'll try for the next recipe! 

Download a PDF of this post here! 

69% water

15% oil (sunflower, soy bean, rice bran, or olive oil)
5% shea or mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)

1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
(This doesn't total 100% because of the difference in preservatives!)

Note: I've changed the emulsifier to be 6% - it should be 5.75% if I'm using Polawax, but I considered that you might be using all kinds of weird and wonderful emulsifiers, and 6% will cover those of you using Polawax, BTMS-50, and e-wax very well. I've reduced the water to 69% to compensate.

Secondary note: Check your preservative's suggested usage rate to ensure you're putting it in the right phase. Most will go into the cool down phase, but some won't! (Click here for the list.) 

You can do this! It's not rocket science - it's cosmetic science, which much more awesome and useful in your daily life! You will not pre-suck! (We define this in craft group as saying you suck before you've even started so when you fail, you can say "I told you so", and not lose face. Or saying "I'm not good at this new thing", and you won't be, because it's something new and we're not going to be perfect the first time out!)

Just think...in about an hour, you can say you've made a lotion and have something to show for your hard work and research. (Take a picture of it and send it to me at sjbarclay@telus.net so I can see what you've made! I'm quite excited by all of this!)

Ensure that your space is clean and tidy. Make sure all your containers, utensils, and everything else have been cleaned well. (Click here for related link.) Get a bottle (or two) ready for your lotion. (You don't need to clean your bottle. If you bought it from your supplier, then it's assumed to be clean!)

If you're making the recipe I mentioned in the first Newbie Tuesday post, then you'll make about 3 ounces or 90 ml of lotion, which will require a 2 ounce bottle with a little left over or a 4 ounce bottle with some head space at the top.

First, turn on your double boiler apparatus (or turn on the burner on the stove) and get the water in the double boiler warming. I'm not sure of the exact amount of water you should add to your specific double boiler: Add enough that the tops of containers aren't covered by the water and it won't spill into the containers if the water accidentally starts boiling. I generally find that getting the water half way to 3/4 of the way up the side of my Pyrex jug should take me through to the end of the heating and holding phase. You can boil up the water in a kettle or pot before using it in the double boiler, if you like.

Next, get your supplies and equipment ready. You'll be using a scale for all the measuring, so make sure it has a prominent place on the counter top. You need two heat proof containers (Pyrex jugs, for instance) - one for the heated water phase, one for the heated oil phase. And you'll need a spoon for each container because you won't be able to resist having a stir as they heat!

Have your notebook beside you with the recipe printed in quite large font and a pen or pencil at the ready. Writing notes is vital to make sure you know what you did this time and what to do (or not to do) next time!

Put your Pyrex jug on the scale. Now weigh out your heated water phase - just the water in this recipe - into your heatproof container.

Weigh your container - hit tare on the scale (zero out the number) so you can get the "before" weight of your heated water phase. (We need this number to know how much water evaporates during the heated water phase so we can compensate for it before we combine the two phases). Now put this container into your double boiler.

Put the second Pyrex jug on the scale. Weigh out everything from the heated oil phase - your oil, butter, emulsifier, cetyl alcohol - into the jug, then put the jug into the double boiler.

I forgot to take a picture of this container on the scale, but this is what your heated oil phase will look like - some oils with the pellets of emulsifier and flakes of cetyl alcohol sinking to the bottom or maybe floating around the top. Depending upon the butter you use, it may or may not be showing as large chunks in the container.

Monitor your containers. Use your thermometer regularly. (If you're using glass containers, try not to let the thermometer hit the floor of the container or you'll be taking its temperature, not your product!)

When the temperature of both phases reaches 70˚C or 158˚F, start your timer for 20 minutes. The containers should heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C or 158˚F. (The temperature might fluctuate and get up as high as 85˚C. That's okay, as long as the temperatures of both containers are over 70˚C and relatively the same when you combine them.)

In the meantime, while you're waiting for the heat and hold phase to come to an end, you can fill up a kettle or another container for heating water and heat some water. You'll add some of this to the heated water phase just before your combine the two to ensure you have a water phase of 70%.

If you haven't written any notes yet, write them now! What oil did you use? Which butter? Did you go a little over the suggested amount for anything? How long did it take for the phases to get to 70˚C? And so on. Also while you're waiting, put away the things you don't need and get out those things you do need like a funnel or plastic bag to get the lotion into the bottle, the bottle, perhaps a label, and definitely your cool down phase ingredients. Check on the water in your double boiler and make sure you have enough so you won't run dry before the 20 minutes is up. Maybe do a little air guitar, or check your e-mail on your smart phone. Twenty minutes isn't that long, but it might feel that way when you're excited to see your lotion finish!

When you've heated and held both phases at 70˚C/158˚F for 20 minutes, remove just the water container from the heat and measure it. How much water did you lose? Add up to the amount you should have had originally. Let's say you measured 500 grams for your container and water phase - if your container now reads 475, add 25 grams from the water you boiled up separately. (It is okay if the water in the kettle is a little hotter than the water phase, as long as it doesn't make the water phase 85˚C or 100˚C while your oil phase is around 70˚C. This is unlikely to happen with so little water and your water phase being over 70˚C, so don't worry!)

Add the oil phase to the water phase and watch the emulsification happen. Isn't it awesome? The way the everything the oil touches turns into milky white without you having to do anything! This is chemical emulsification and it's awesome! (I remember the first time I saw emulsification - I was so excited! I love it when the kids in my craft group see it for the first time - it really is quite awesome!)

This is the part of lotion making where we mix. I like to use my hand mixer on setting 1 or 2 using the beater attachment and mix for a few minutes - maybe 4 minutes or so? Then I set it aside and let it cool down. Put a thermometer in the container and wait a bit. The temperature of the room is important here. If you have an unheated workshop like mine, it can take a really short period of time to cool down - maybe 10 to 15 minutes. If you have a warm room, it might take longer. Some people use an ice bath to cool it down. I guess you could do that if you really wanted it to cool down quickly - I've never tried it because it never seems to take very long to cool in my house!

And yes, it's okay to have a stir with a clean spoon while you're waiting for it to cool down. See how the viscosity changes as the product gets closer to 45˚C. It can take up to three days for a lotion to come to its final viscosity, so don't worry that you are currently seeing something with the consistency of slightly thickened milk!

When the product reaches 45˚C or 113˚F, add your cool down ingredients. In this lotion, that would be your fragrance/essential oil and preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus, which goes into the cool down phase. Your preservative may vary. Check before you start making the lotion!) Mix again. Maybe 2 or 3 minutes? Now leave it alone. You're done. We're just waiting for it to get cool enough to bottle.

If you're going to put this in a jar, you can do that right away and let the product cool in the jar. Do not put the lid on the product - we don't want condensation! Cover the jar(s) with a paper towel until cooled.

If you're putting this into any other kind of bottle, put a clean cloth or paper towel over the top of the container, and let it cool down to where the jug isn't warm to the touch any more (room temperature - around 20˚C or 68˚F). You can try using a funnel to get your product into the bottle, but I prefer to use a piping bag (that you'd use for icing - find them in the cake decorating section of your favourite craft store or Daiso!). Some people suggest using a plastic bag with the corner cut off - for some reason, I can't make this work for me and end up with lotion everywhere.

Put some pressure on the bag, then let it off, then add a bit more, until your container is getting quite full. Bang the container on the table to get rid of the air, then add some more. Keep doing this until you reach a point where you want to try putting the pump into the bottle. Make sure it doesn't overflow because it'll get into the pump mechanisms!

And now you're done! Rejoice! Do a happy dance to celebrate the making of the lotion! You've done it!

The next part of lotion making? Making cute labels. Marching around the house with the bottle in your hand saying, "I made lotion! I made lotion!" E-mailing your friends and family (and tutor - sjbarclay@telus.net) and telling them tales with attached pictures! And generally rejoicing in the fact that you set out to accomplish something and did it! You're walking on sunshine, and don't it feel good? Indeed!

Please write your comments in the section below to inspire others to give it a try! (Can we try to keep all the newbie lotion making comments in this post and keep all the comments in this post about first time lotion making?)  Next week's Newbie Tuesday post will be the troubleshooting and sharing part of the process, so please e-mail me (sjbarclay@telus.net) or comment below and let me know how it went for you. I want others to learn from your experiences, but I also need to know if this tutorial was helpful! If you encounter a problem - like a lotion fail, for instance - please write out your recipe and process, letting me know about any changes (for instance, type of oil and butter), so we can trouble shoot it next week! Please send pictures and let me know if it's okay to use your experience and photos in the post next week. (And let me know what screen name you want!)

Congratulations! You did it! Now use it all up very quickly so you have a cheap excuse to make another one!


Lise M Andersen said...

Fun and inspiring post Susan!

Message to all newbies from an oldbie:
If making your first lotion captures your fancy and gets you excited, I can tell you from experience: the excitement will be there EVERY time you make a product.

How awesome is that?!

Anonymous said...

yay! the last of my supplies came last night!! im so excited!!!! :-D

HB said...

Darn I must be dense or something. I totally get the formula (very much like Baker's Percents) but I don't know how to start measuring out ingredients! 69% of what? 3 ounces? Help! because yes, I suck... at math!

Little Bird said...

Hi HB, I'm not Susan but I can answer that question. (I hope I'm not stepping on any toes.) It's 69% of the total recipe.

Anonymous said...

i made my first lotion!!! :-DDD

i followed the recipe above and i aimed for a 100 gram recipe, so all i did was weigh the percents as grams (ie 69 grams water, 15g oil, etc). the directions were really helpful and i thought every detail was covered really well!

i used shea butter for my butter and sunflower oil for my oil. i also used pink grapefruit essential oil.

one mistake i made was i tared the water phase container while weighing the water phase initially...i should have written down the weight of container + water (as susan said in the directions hehe... i guess i got too excited!!) i just chanced it and added 10 g water at the end of the heating and holding.

one other problem i had was that my containers were bouncing around my double boiler a little bit during heating and holding. maybe they are too light?

the consistency of my final product was fluffy and thick enough to put in a jar rather than a pump container. on the skin it was a tad oily, but i didnt mind! it absorbed fine after a few minutes. i think it's a pretty decent thicker, oilier winter lotion and im very happy with the result! lol i guess the real test whether this is a true success will be if the consistency stays the same over time! :)

this was super fun and i cant wait for the rest of the series!! thanks so much for the great info and encouragement!!!


Leman said...

I am not totally new but I'd like to follow this series if that's ok! Though not many I have done some lotions before. I mainly created my tutors recipes with success. However I really like to create some of your wonderful recipes too, I attempted your facial moisturisers but have failed on all my attempts! Hopefully I will get a grip by following this series.

I will try to attempt this on the weekend and try to send photos (I hope, though can't promise!).

Alex, my containers bounces all the time I really need to get a wire ring Susan was talking about sometime ago but I just can't find any at the moment.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lise! You're right - listen to her! Every time I see that emulsion come together and stay together, I'm all smiles and gleeful!

Hi HB! All the ingredients in the lotion recipe should total 100%. (Sometimes mine don't because I have to consider that you might use a different preservative!). So when I say 69% water, I mean that 69% of the recipe is water. Convert the 100% of the recipe into 100 grams, and you can see that this means if we want 100 grams of lotion, we'd use 69 grams of water in that product. If you add up all the grams you'd use, you'd have a 100 gram batch of lotion!

Hi Little Bird! There's no such thing as stepping on toes around here. If you want to comment, comment! We should be able to help each other without becoming territorial!

Hi Leman! Everyone is welcome! My husband has to take an intro to computer programming course at university - this after years of being a computer programmer. I hate that we have to pay good money for a course that he could teach, but as he pointed out to me, even an advanced person like him could learn from an introductory course. I feel the same way! I'm learning from you. You're learning from me. We're all on this learning adventure together, and by sharing what we've learned, we learn more! It's great fun!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Yay, Alex! I'm so happy for you. Are you still doing your happy dance? Isn't it exciting to finally take the plunge and make a lotion!

Are you already thinking about what you'd tweak next? It sounds like you'd like it to be a little less greasy, and I'd definitely suggest a humectant (replace 3% of the water with 3% glycerin or honeyquat, or 2.5% with sodium lactate).

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leman! You mentioned that you tried making a moisturizer from one of my recipes and it didn't work - can you post your recipe (with tweaks) and the process so we can trouble shoot it? That's what this series is all about!

Leman said...

cool :-) I'll do that when I go home and check my notebook!

thank you. X

Anonymous said...

Yes, still happy dancing!! :-D
Thanks for the suggestion! Do I add the glycerin as part of the heated water phase?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Alex! I am accompanying you in your happy dance today! Yay! Lotion!

If we want to add 3% glycerin to our product, we remove 3% water from the heated water phase and add the glycerin in its place.

66% water
3% glycerin

HB said...

I followed the 100%=100g advice and ended up with exactly the amount of lotion needed to fill a 3 ounce bottle. Perfect! Thanks!

Leman said...

Hi Susan, here are the failed recipes! Sorry this is rather long.

Moisturiser for Dry skin - 100ml

Water Phase
20g aloe vera
20g chamomile hydrosol
31g water (spring water)
3g glycerin
3.4g honeyquat
2.4g Sea silk (Hydrolysed vegetable protein)

Oil phase
8g borage oil, 8g squalane (It looks like I used 8g instead of 4g squalane by mistake)
4.3g emulsifier*
2g cetyl alcohol

Cool down phase
0.8g preservative 12 (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin)
2g panthenol
1g Vit E
0.5g Chamomile CO2 extract - liquid - (I can't find powdered chamomile extract so I used this instead)
0.5g Sea Buckthorn Pulp CO2 exract - (I used this instead of the green tea extract)

*The emulsifier I used wasn't the e-wax or polawax as you suggest in the recipe, it was the Base Emulsifier (Glyceryl Monostearate) http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-base-emulsifier-uk.htm from Aromantic as that was the only one I had at the time.

Result: This failed to emulsify when I combined the water and oil phases but I think I know why! I think my emulsifier was not enough for my oil phase.

Moisturiser for Dry Wrinkled skin - 200ml

Water phase
56.2g water
40g aloe vera juice
40g chamomile hydrosol
6.1g glycerin
6.2g honeyquat
3.7g hyrrolyzed protein - oat
1g allantoin

Oil phase
24% oils; 16g evening primrose, 6g apricot kernal oil
8g e-wax
4g cetyl alchohol

Cool down phase
2g chamomile Co2 extract - liquid
1g grapeseed extract powdered *
4.2g panthenol
2.1g Vit E
2g preservative 12
6g multifurit BsC
EOs; 15dr frankencense, 8dr sweet orange

* Grapeseed extract turned the cream light brownish colour. Also, I am not sure how much I put in as my scale stopped all of a sudden. I was putting grapeseed straight into the main container instead of measuring in a separate container and than combining with the main container. Big mistake!!!

Result: It looked emulsified at first though it was very liquid, however after few hours water separated and sunk to the bottom.

Moisturiser for Dry Skin - 100ml

Water Phase
20g water
20g rose hydrosal
32g water
3g glycerin
3g honey moisturiser
2g hydrolyzed silk

Oil phase
12% oils; 8% borage oil, 4% squalane
4% polawax
2% cetyl alcohol

Cool down phase
0.5g preservative 12
2g panthenol
0.5g chamomile Co2 extract liquid
1g vit E

Result: This was emulsified and stayed emulsified to this day (made on 16 Oct 2011), however as I use a milk frother to mix my creams it has frothed too much (mousse like) and the milk frother broke half way through!! My 100ml container was filled up to the top with 55ml cream!

I really need to get a hand mixer I am fed up with milk frothers breaking up on me. I usually make 100ml recipes using 200ml or 400ml beakers and I am worried that I won't be able to fit a hand mixer blade into my beakers to mix. I need to find a mixer with smallish blades I guess.

Thank you Susan.

Adele said...

This is a fantastic introduction to lotion- trust me it's worth starting with a simple recipe like this one before you dive in with the more complicated ones.

Susan rocks!

Anonymous said...

Hello Susan,
I made my lotion yesterday and i also made some modifications on it. I added 70% water, 4% glycerin, 2% cetac, 10%, 5% coconut butter. It is supposed to be for the hair. It came out wonderful, until now it is still together, it has not separated. How long does it take for the lotion to separate if it will separate? I would like to make it less thick though, so what should i do add more water or reduce the the BTMS, i used BTMS 25.
Thank you so much,
I keep looking at the lotion all the time and also touching it. My first lotion!!!!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leman. I was looking at the emulsifier from the UK, and it looks like it's not a complete emulsifier but glyceryl monostearate, which is a low HLB emulsifier. It needs a high HLB emulsifier used at the right amount to create an emulsification, and there isn't a high HLB emulsifier in the mix. So I'm really not sure how this is supposed to work or how the proprietor can call it an emulsifier. It isn't an emulsifier - it's one part of an emulsification system that requires the HLB system to figure it all out. It isn't as easy as adding 6% of it or 3% of it or whatever - you have to figure out the HLB of your oil phase, then combine it with a high HLB emulsifier to get emulsification. It's not easy! So that's why that one failed - you didn't have a complete emulsification system in the product!

Leman said...

Thank you for the reply Susan. I have not used glyceryl monostearate since then and won't be using it ever! I now have e-wax and polawax and will stick to them. However, I failed in my 2nd recipe (200ml)listed in the post above even though I used e-wax (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 from INCI: http://www.plushfolly.com/products-view.php?id=241&category=18) any ideas?...
Also Does the powdered grapeseed extract everyone else uses is brownish as well? Mine is and it turned my cream brownish!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leman! I'm not sure about why the second attempt failed. Sometimes e-wax fails - it is a lot less stable than Polawax, which one of the reasons I don't tend to use e-wax. It's suggested that you use 1% more e-wax than Polawax. I hate to pin it all on that - but it seems likely, considering that you've had success with Polawax, and I know you'll have followed good procedure with the product. You have a large cool down phase, but I've had cool down phases that size and had no problem, so it might not be that.

What preservative are you using?

As for the powdered grapeseed extract, have you seen my cleansers and toners? They look like blood! (Click here for the cleanser!)

Leman said...

I used Preservative 12 (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) from Atomantic - http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-preservative-12-uk.htm. I still have quite a lot in the bottle to go through but once I finished that I will move on to what you have suggested.

Oh yes I remember now! I have seen the colour of you cleanser/toner :-)

Johanna Roth said...

I thought I'd ask something even though this is an old post. I see you mention adding grape seed extract to a lotion, I have tried this twice but as soon as I add the grape seed extract (from bulkactives.com) the emulsion breaks and the nice lotion turns into a runny mess... I'm afraid to try again because I don't feel like wasting supplies. I also tried to add the GSE to a ready made lotion because I was curious and same thing happened.
Have you ever experienced this?

lallan said...

Thank you Susan for inspiring all newbies around with good manufacturing practise and sharing your in-depth knowledge about bath and body products.
I have just made my successful lotion following your instructions with some tweaks.
I used 32% DW 10% rose hydrofoil and 20% aloe gel with total 79% heater water phase and grapeseed oil wheat germ and evening primrose oil polawax and cetyl alcohol in oil phase. I have also used glycerin and sodium lactate in water phase. The lotion turned out great leaving my skin so soft. On the second day it is leaving a white film evertime I apply it and I have to rub hard to get it absorb. Is there anything that needs to be added to avoid that film and get lotion absorbs readily?
Also during the heating and holding phase you instructed to have temperature 70 C but for some reason my oil and water temperature never got beyond 50C. May be it has to do something with the double boiler. Weighing scale was also a problem because mine starts from 1 gm so weighing 0.5 gm for germall plus and fragrance was tough. I will buy a good one..any suggestions?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lallan. I'm not sure what to say about the white film as there's nothing in there that should cause the soaping effect, which is what that white film is. It might have something to do with the way the product emulsified, as you mention you didn't get the heat high enough during the heating and holding phase.

I use an Infinity mini-scale, but there are tons of good ones you can find in the epoxy section of the hardware store or at jewellery shops. I don't really know of any truly bad ones, to be honest.

I'm glad you made a lotion and it turned out!

MSC said...

Hi Susan, a little late to the party here but is it possible to do this successfully without the cetyl alcohol? If so how might I change the percentages? Also I'd like to add cocoa butter. Should I reduce the percentage of Shea butter to accommodate the cocoa butter? Thanks in advance! This is the best blog.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi MSC! There's no such thing as an old post around here! I've written up a response to your question in today's Weekend Wonderings. Short answer - yes, use cocoa butter in place of shea/mango butter and yes, feel free to leave out the cetyl alcohol!

Bunny said...

Eheheheee~ This is an old post, but I;m putting a review anyway! I just made my FIRST EVER lotion and am so excited it turned out so well~ So! It was:

Water Phase:
59% rosewater
0.5% allantoin
2% glycerin
5% candelula extract
2% panthenol

Oil Phase:
9% rice bran oil
6% macadamia nut oil
5% nicolita shea butter
2% IPM
1% vitamin e
6% BTMS (the 25% kind)

Cool down was... a probably too-low amount of Liquid Germall Plus (stuff is viscous! I did not account for this) and about 4 drops of Rose Geranium essential oil.

Final result is SUPER ROSEY and pretty! It's a nice kind of sludgy thickness, and is just a little bit of a nice greasy that sinks in / dries in a few minutes. I'm in love! I'm going to try and use it up quick because I'm not sure there's enough preservative.

Next time I think I might try adding a little cetyl alcohol... or would it be crazy to add 3-ish% lanolin? I like it in my whipped butters, and my mother loves those Udderly Smooth cow milking/hand creams which contain a good amount of it. I think the IPM would keep it from getting TOO greasy...? DECISIONS! Thank you for the inspiration and detailed instructions, Susan!!

B. said...


this may be a crazy question, but why couldn't I just put a lid on the heater water phase to avoid any loss?


naturecleanliving said...

Hi there,
love your blog and i truly learnt a lot from here.

however i still don't find some answers, maybe you can help?

1, when we make cream, we heat up water phase and oil emulsifier phase separately. if one wants to add Liquid Plant extract into this emulsion, when should it be added? i have tried to add it only after blended the cream stage as i would like to keep as much goodies in them , but i faced some kind of liquify issue after two days. i guess i shall heat the extract together with the distilled water? if so, will the heat destroy its properties inside? are extracts and hydrosols considered as Water phase and needed to be heated and held?

2,i am currently making cosmetics with plant powders and clays, as well as adding some zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. I bought and found out after the nano particles is the bad version to get as it will cause problem if inhale, however i have got it... i would like to know if i can minimise the issue of the nano particle by only using in after dissolved ,not to use it in powder form?

3, for mineral makeup, i wanted to change my packaging to pressed palette, i know it requires rubbing alcohol and i don't get to find any alternatives really to replace rubbing alcohol.. any ideas or is rubbing alcohol a must in regard to make pressed powder makeup? if only rubbing alcohol, is it making my products "unnatural"? (i intended to make everything in nature resources.

thanks in advance and will keep looking answers myself and learning here.

thanks millions!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi N. I don't know what plant extract you are using, so I'll suggest that you talk to your supplier and see what they suggest. I have a feeling that the liquification you mention is separation of your lotion, which is generally a problem of not enough emulsifier or not heating and holding. If you want to post your complete recipe in percentages with your exact process, I'd be happy to take a look at it.

I really suggest you take a look at the newbie section to learn more about heating and holding. Your questions are answered there. You're not losing any goodness by heating and holding your ingredients that can handle heat, like aloe vera, some extracts, and so on.

I don't really hold with the idea that nano particle titanium dioxide or zinc oxide are going to kill us if we inhale it, so I'm afraid I have no suggestions for you.

Take a look at the MMU section of my blog to see my experiments with different pressing media. I don't know what the definition of natural is, so I can't really offer any suggestions to what unnatural would be. I'm wondering how you can make eye shadows out of only "natural" things. I would think the colours would be very matte and dull. But then again, I wouldn't consider iron oxides natural. Are you using plant based colours? Just curious..

naturecleanliving said...

Dear Susan,

Thanks for your reply. The recipe for my cream was:
50% Aqua,
18% Grapeseed oil,
17.5 % Apricot kernel oil,
4% trehalose,
3% Cetearyl Wheat Bran Glycoside
0.5% candelilla wax
6% witch hazel extract and 1 % Palmarosa E.O

*Candelilla wax is added now for stability, considering to add seppic G57 for the same purpose.
result comparing with C.W it is more gooey, but i must say it took long to become thicker after holding..

any advise will be appreciated.

2, I do use mostly plant powders(beetroot/cooca/cinnamon/kaolin clay/clays etc) for my MU products. however, when it comes to adding oils(liquid) to the powder, it changes . So now i have got myself some Iron oxides to play with. Isn't Mineral nature? I must have misunderstood mineral makeup=natural makeup.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi N! Is Cetearyl wheat bran glycosides a complete emulsifier or does it need to be added to something else. Also, you have way too much water in there. Are you going for an oil in water lotion or a water in oil emulsion?

Blue Raven said...

Thank you so very much for this! This was such a fun and amazing experience. My first attempt was a success and I ended up with an 8 oz batch. The consistency is fluffy and thick but I think that's because of the hand blender I used and the pinch of extra shea butter I added. I'm currently reading your other recipes and am super excited to try to make a face lotion and can't wait to try it!!

Your blog is awesome and so are you. Please never stop.

JennaTheFirst said...

I did it! I have created lotion! I feel like the creator of the wheel or sliced bread or fire at the moment.

I did a basic recipe and had a few 'aw nuts' moments as I came to a step and realized I didn't really understand my ingredient
73g water
2g honey
5g shea butter
14g jojoba oil
6g BTMS-50
1 g Phenonip

Whelp. I added the phenonip at the cool down phase and went back to the 'net and realized that I should have put it in my heated oil phase....bummer.

So, I read more and followed your sage advice to take some notes.

Now I've got my eye on this:
Water Phase
Water 52%
Glycerin 5%
Niacinimide 4%
Allantoin 2%
Silk Peptide 2%

Oil Phase
Jojoba 10%
Shae 5.5%
Rice Bran 4%
Olive Squalane .5%
BTMS-50 6%
Phenonip 1%

Cool Down
NAG 2% dissolved in Water 4%
Zinc Oxide 2%

Fingers crossed it will help my skin deal with Calgary winter weather!
**Thank you so much for this blog and all the information**
Jenna Z

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi JennaTheFirst! Isn't it great? I'm so excited for you. Emulsions are awesome!!! That formula looks awesome. You have to let me know how it turned out! (I love love love niacinamide and n-acetyl glucosamine together so much!)

JennaTheFirst said...

It's sticky >:{ ew.
Took the glycerine down to 2% and added 3% more water. MUCH better. Buuuut, I'm struggling with the evaporation in the water phase. I do add extra in the cool down to account for what's lost in the heat and hold stage. The trouble is my scale measurements appear to jump around a bit when the warm Pyrex jug goes on it vs the cool jug in the beginning. :/

JennaTheFirst said...

Also, nag and niacinimide right!? Hello even skin tone!