Friday, November 4, 2011

Experiments in the workshop: ACI in place of SCI

Well, we're in for a party today, my friends! I've been experimenting with ammonium cocoyl isethionate (ACI) in place of sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) in my body wash, face wash, and hand wash! Yes, get on your party hats and grab some of those blowy things that make noise - but leave the confetti at home because I just did the floors - because ACI does, indeed, rock the party!

So what's the difference between ACI and SCI? Both are considered exceptionally mild surfactants. Both are considered tolerant to hard water and have a great skin feel. And both offer good bubbles and lather. But ACI is a liquid! Yep, it's a 30% active liquid that has a shelf life of 1 year (versus 2 years for the prills). ACI is considered more water soluble than SCI because it's in a liquid format. Which makes it easier to incorporate into your products! 

If you look at the picture above, you'll see the little M+ in the lower right hand corner. In SCI, that would be a sodium (Na) ion. In ACI, that's an ammonium (NH4) ion. That's the chemical difference! 

The main reason to use it is that it is a liquid form of SCI for those times that you want something to easier to incorporate that will allow to you make a clear product. (Having said that, I have had my products with up to 10% Jordapon prill SCI be clear, but this way it's a guarantee!) If you love the elegant silky skin feel of SCI but find it hard to melt, then ACI might be a great option for you.

As a note, if you find SCI hard to melt, try using cocamidopropyl betaine with it as it will speed up the process! 

I've been playing with it and, as you can probably tell, I'm already a fan. So let's get started with ACI!

Here's a link to the data sheet from BASF if you want to know more about ACI and SCI!
And here's an article about SCI and ACI and well they work with colour treated hair! 

1 comment:

tara said...

Fabulous! I have also just purchased this! Don't think it will be part of my regular formulations, since it is so darn expensive to import (I'm assuming you got yours at The Herbarie?)! But maybe once a year a so I will splurge :-D