Thursday, June 2, 2011

Why did I buy that? Ferulic acid

What the heck is ferulic acid and why did I buy it? (To post your own why did I buy that ingredient, click here and write a comment!) Ferulic acid is a polyphenol that offers good anti-oxidizing properties that can moisturize skin, help with light and weather damage, and might help tone down age spots. It might help stabilize Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) in our products.

I did read somewhere that ferulic acid can help stimulate hair growth, but I can't find any proof of this claim. It can help reduce inflammation in our skin, and might help protect you from the sun when you're in the sun (but don't use it instead of a good sunscreen!). It works synergistically with other anti-oxidants to create a super anti-oxidant party that will help retard the rancidity of oils in your products and fight free radicals on your skin.

A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (summary - it should be good for protection against skin cancer and wrinkles and age spots caused by sun exposure because it protects against oxidative stress)...
Ferulic acid is a potent ubiquitous plant antioxidant. Its incorporation into a topical solution of 15% l-ascorbic acid and 1% -tocopherol improved chemical stability of the vitamins (C+E) and doubled photoprotection to solar-simulated irradiation of skin from 4-fold to approximately 8-fold as measured by both erythema and sunburn cell formation. Inhibition of apoptosis was associated with reduced induction of caspase-3 and caspase-7. This antioxidant formulation efficiently reduced thymine dimer formation. This combination of pure natural low molecular weight antioxidants provides meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress in skin and should be useful for protection against photoaging and skin cancer.

Ferulic acid can be found in rice bran (in fact, the product you buy from Lotioncrafter is derived from rice bran oil), borage, coconut and virgin coconut oil, and wheat germ oils.

Ferulic acid comes as a fine white or off-white powder that is soluble in propylene glycol, ethanol, hot water (but only slightly soluble in cold water), and dimethyl isosorbide (an ingredient that can increase skin penetration of actives and is soluble in water). We add it at 0.5% to 1% to our heated water phase. You can use this in a variety of products like facial cleansers (although it'd probably wash off), toners, moisturizers, serums with water, and other products that contain water. I'd consider this a cosmeceutical ingredient ("cosmetic products with properties very similar to a pharmaceutical product (drug-like benefits)" because it's making claims to help with anti-aging.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with ferulic acid!


Krystle~Hime said...

I don't know why I can post my comments in the right article !!
I'd like so much you do a duplicate of Aphogee 2 min recnostructor !!
thanks in advance !!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Krystle-Hime. Could you please post your suggestion for a duplicate product in this thread, including the full proper name of the product, a link to it, and a full list of ingredients? Thanks!

Krystle~Hime said...

I told you !! I've tried so many times.... let's try and try again..

Krystle~Hime said...

Okay it doesn't work..

no matters, may I ask you if for getting a protein conditioner I can put 30% of hydrolyzed wheat protein ?

I want so bad to do a protein conditioner.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Krystle~Hime! Why don't you send me all the information necessary for the product and I'll post it in the right section. I like to have it all in one place so I can refer to it when I'm writing posts.

Why would you want to use 30% protein in a conditioner? 5% is more than enough? I wouldn't suggest doing that. You can - it will work in place of the water amount - but I don't think it's a good idea.

Krystle~Hime said...

Lol, i know it's a big amount, but that's what make a product a protein treatment :
I said 30% because when I look at aphogee 2 step protein treatment, or aphogee 2 min reconstructor, protein is on the top at the ingredients list, and this is surely more than the usual 5-10% dosage.

Aphogee 2 min reconstructor

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Behenamidopropylamine Behenatem Stearolkonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cocodimonium Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Hydrolzed Mucopolysac Charides, Sodium Coco Collagen Amino Acids, Wheat Germ Fatty Acids, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Arachidonic Acid, Squalane, Avocado Oil, Acetimide MEA, Panthenol, Wheat Germ Oil, Jojoba Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sulfur, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium 10, Linoleamidopropyl PG Dimonium, Chloride Phosphate, Tallowtrimonium Chloride, Nonoxynol 10, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Sorbitol, Fragrance, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

Aphogee 2 step treatment

Hydrolyzed Collagen, Water, Citric Acid, Dimethylol Urea, Magnesium Sulfate, Ethylene Urea, Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein, PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Maurita Flexuosa Fruit oil, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Fragrance (Parfum), Magnesium Carbonate, Diethylene Glycol, Trideceth-12, C11-15 Pareth-7, C12-16 Pareth-9, DMDM Hydantoin, Linalool.

Of course, customer has to follow the company directement and we must use a moisturizing conditioner after that for restore protein/moisture balance !

I'm interesting of doing something like the "2 minute" treatment, the "2 step" is a too heavy protein treament, but the "2 minute" is lighter enough to be used weekly. I don't understand what does cetric is doing at top in ingredients, usually it's no more than 5% ...

Voilà !!
ps : I follow your blog since 5 months, from Paris !! you blog is awesome !

Krystle~Hime said...

hey Susan ! don't forget me :) ! please !

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm not duplicating products at the moment and I'm not sure when I might start writing those posts again, so it might be a while before you get your answer. Why not take a look at the recipes in the hair care section and see if you can duplicate it yourself? After all, that's the point of the blog - to teach you how to formulate products from scratch on your own - and you'd learn a lot in the process. If you're interested in making conditioners, you can almost always make something better than that which you'd find in the store!

Krystle~Hime said...

lol, if you read former comments, I asked you advices for duplicating by my own, you told me there is no reason to put 30% of hydrolyserd protein in a product. and after that I gave you the ingredients lists of 2 products for explaining why I was thinking about "30%"

i'm not asking you to duplicate it for me(at first I did, yes) but just sharing me your thoughts after visualize these ingredients lists.

So do you think they put more than 30% of protein in the "Aphogee 2 step" ?

how much do you think they put for the "2 minute reconstructor " 10?15%

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

Hey, Susan, it is also soluble in a NaOH solution - here's the link. I tried it and it dissolves really well. Of course, in the end I add lactic acid or citric acid to correct the pH and check the pH to be close to 5.

p.s. not my blog ;)