Thursday, May 12, 2011

Modifying duplicated products: Lush's Sugar Plum Fairies scrub

Yesterday we took a look at Lush's Sugar Plum Fairies scrub, but I feel this won't be moisturizing enough for most skin types. I think it will be lovely and scrubby, but it's more about the bubbles and lather than about the moisturizing. So let's take a look at how we can modify this product to be more moisturizing while staying foamy.

My first thought is to use a different surfactant. I like SLeS just fine, but I think another, more moisturizing surfactant might be a better choice. Something good for dry skin, like polyglucose/lactylate, SCI or SMO or SMC taurate, that offer moisturization and good foam and bubbles. I think the SCI would be a great choice here because we can melt it down and use it to keep the product together. I always include an amphoteric surfactant in my products to increase mildness, and in this product it will serve to help melt the SCI. So I think I'm going with SCI, polyglucose/lactylate, and cocamidopropyl betaine.

I need some moisturizers in here, but not something that will depress the foam. Cocamide DEA is a great choice here, and I could use either PEG-7 cocoate or myristamine oxide as moisturizers and foam boosters. I think I'll use PEG-7 and cocamide DEA here.

The baking soda would be a great exfoliant for the product, and the sugar should stay as well. I'm not sure about the cream of tartar because it's really expensive stuff, but it will keep the product solid. I think I'll reduce that to about 5% or so and keep the sugar at 70% and baking soda at 10%. Which means we have 85% scrubby and powdery materials in the product. If we're using 1% fragrance oil, then we have 14% surfactants in the product.

I love my SCI, so I want that to be the bulk of the product. I think I'll use it at 8% in this with 2% cocamidopropyl betaine and 4% polyglucose/lactylate blend. I want to include 2% PEG-7 cocoate and 2% cocamide DEA as well.

SUGAR AND BAKING SODA SCRUB BAR WITH SOME MODIFICATIONS
HEATED PHASE
8% SCI
2% cocamidorpropyl betaine
4% polyglucose/lactylate blend
2% PEG-7 cocoate
2% cocamide DEA

COOL DOWN PHASE
70% sugar
10% baking soda
5% cream of tartar
1% fragrance oil

Heat the surfactants until the SCI is well melted. Remove from the double boiler and add in the rest of the cool down ingredients. Add colour, if desired (this will be white, otherwise), and mould. Put into a fridge or freezer and cool until it comes out of the mould easily. Rejoice!

Join me tomorrow for more fun duplicating products!

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