Before you go any further, I've created a new version of this formula using a stearic acid-triethanolamine emulsifier like the one in the ingredient list for this product. I like the version in this post, but I thought I should try to make the duplication more authentic by using this emulsification system. Continue reading the post to get more information about what each ingredient brings to the product, then click the link to get to the new version.
Oat Milk (Avena sativa): This would be water with oats in it.
Rose Water (Rosa centifolia): Rose hydrosol, which is good for all skin types, it offers anti-bacterial properties and may help control sebum. It also smells really lovely.
Olive Oil (Olea europaea): With a shelf life of a year, olive oil offers great phytosterols and fatty acids for moisturizing and reducing transepidermal water loss.
Fair Trade Cocoa Butter (Theobroma cacao): A very thick and brittle butter with a two year shelf life, it is an approved occlusive ingredient.
Glycerine: Our humectant, it draws water from the atmosphere to our skin to make it feel more moisturized. Glycerin has been shown to accelerate the recovery of barrier function following damage to skin, and like the other humectants, it acts as an anti-freeze for the water in our products, lowering the freezing point and keeping surfactant mixes clear.
Stearic Acid: A thickener and emulsifier when combined with triethanolamine, it can behave as an emollient. Products made with stearic acid will be thicker and stiffer than those made with cetyl alcohol.
Triethanolamine (TEA): Using this in combination with stearic acid will emulsify your lotions, but it can lead to the dreaded soaping effect (those annoying very white streaks in some lotions).
Tincture of Benzoin (Styrax benzoin): (Click here for the Wiki link.) Used as an anti-oxidant. It is not a preservative.
Chamomile Oil (Anthemis nobilis): An essential oil from chamomile, it contains phytosterols that are good for reducing inflammation.
Tea Tree Oil (Melaleuca alternifolia): An essential oil used for anti-septic purposes.
Lavender Oil (Lavandula hybrida): An essential oil used for its scent as well as soothing purposes.
Cetearyl Alcohol: A thickener that feels slightly more waxy than cetyl alcohol.
*Geraniol, *Limonene, *Linalool: Components of the essential oil.
Perfume: Smells pretty!
Methylparaben, Propylparaben: Our preservatives. Methylparaben is more water soluble than propylparaben, but they should be combined with another water soluble preservative to create a broad spectrum system.
What kind of product is this? We have an oil in water lotion that is likely very thick thanks to the cocoa butter, stearic acid, and cetearyl alcohol. It looks like stearic acid and TEA are used as the emulsifier.
Are there any ingredients we can leave out? The essential oils are optional - rose and chamomile are really expensive, and I'd suggest using chamomile hydrosol or extract to lower the price - as is the benzoin, although I'd substitute another anti-oxidant for that, like Vitamin E (although this should be at least a 1 year shelf life product).
What should we change? I'd use a broad spectrum preservative for this product - the parabens aren't broad spectrum ones - and I'd include an anti-oxidant like Vitamin E instead of the benzoin (simply because I don't have it!) I have no idea how to make oat milk, short of soaking oats in water and using that water which will be very hard to preserve, so I'm going to use 2% hydrolyzed oat protein instead. I'd suggest using chamomile hydrosol or chamomile extract (0.5% in the cool down phase) instead of the essential oil (and that's mainly because it's expensive and because I really don't like the kinda musty smell to it), so I'll use that instead of oat milk.
And finally, I'm not using stearic acid and TEA as emulsifiers as it that combination feels really stiff and draggy to me and I find those white streaks annoying. Instead, I'm going to use Polawax. If you want to use the HLB system, there'll be a little thing at the bottom for you!
This seems like a body butter kind of consistency, so I'll go with a 60% water recipe to start. I think I'll use 16% olive oil and 10% cocoa butter with 3% stearic acid and 1% cetearyl alcohol for a 30% oil phase. If I'm using Polawax, I'll need 7.5% emulsifier here. My oil phase is a total of 37.5%.
As a note, this will have a different skin feel if you aren't using the same emulsifier. I'm hoping this will be less draggy than the original. If you want it to be less draggy still, substitute the stearic acid for cetyl alcohol.
For the water phase, I'll use chamomile hydrosol, rose hydrosol, 2% hydrolyzed oat protein, and 3% glycerin. I think I'll go with 25.5% chamomile hydrosol and 25% rose hydrosol, although you can take both of them down to 10% and use water for the other 35.5% (20% hydrosols with 35.5% water) if you want to save some money.
For the cool down phase, I'll use 1% essential oil blend (rose, chamomile, lavender, and tea tree at whatever combination you want), 0.5% liquid Germall Plus, and 0.5% Vitamin E for a total cool down phase of 2%.
POSSIBLE DUPLICATION OF LUSH'S DREAM CREAM
HEATED WATER PHASE
25.5% chamomile hydrosol
25% rose hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
HEATED OIL PHASE
16% olive oil
10% cocoa butter
3% stearic acid
1% cetearyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% chamomile extract (powdered) - optional
0.5% Vitamin E or benzoin
1% essential oil blend
Using the basic lotion making instructions for this product.
If you want to use an HLB emulsifier for this product, I'd suggest using 5% of your HLB emulsifiers as this is really thick and has a large oil phase (30%). Here's how I'd calculate it...
16% olive oil = 16/30 = 0.533 x 7 = 3.733
10% cocoa butter = 10/30 = 0.333 x 6 = 2.000
3% stearic acid = 3/30 = 0.1 x 15.5 = 1.500
1% cetearyl alcohol = 1/30 = 0.0333 x 15.5 = 0.517
Required HLB is 7.75.
If you're using glycol distearate (HLB 1) and ceteareth-20 (HLB 15.2) for a total of 5% emulsifier, you'd want to use 2.6% glycol distearate and 2.4% ceteareth-20 (52% glycol distearate and 48% ceteareth-20).
If you're using glyceryl stearate (HLB 2.9) and ceteareth-20 (HLB 15.2) for a total of 5% emulsifier, you'd want to use 3% glyceryl stearate and 2% ceteareth-20 (60% glyceryl stearate and 40% ceteareth-20).
Replace the 2.5% difference between using the HLB emulsifier and Polawax with more water or hydrosols.
Join me tomorrow for more fun with duplicating products!